handling issues
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,164
Likes: 6
From: Greenfield, Massachusetts
Well, I may as well throw my .02 in on this thread...I agree with several other posts about the geometry of the bike has changed when you lowered the rear 1", but didn't lower the front causing the bike bike to steer slower.
I remember reading your posts when you first got the bike and you were very pleased with the handling and said it gave you confidence riding the bike...I assume this was before you lowered the rear 1".
With the integrated risers on the '08 and newer Street Bobs, there's not much space to lower the front and not hit the handlebars, but you should have about 1/2" to 5/8" to lower...this will help get the geometry back and quicken up the steering a bit without having to put in shorter fork springs.
Just my .02
I remember reading your posts when you first got the bike and you were very pleased with the handling and said it gave you confidence riding the bike...I assume this was before you lowered the rear 1".
With the integrated risers on the '08 and newer Street Bobs, there's not much space to lower the front and not hit the handlebars, but you should have about 1/2" to 5/8" to lower...this will help get the geometry back and quicken up the steering a bit without having to put in shorter fork springs.
Just my .02
You know, you are right about my comments about more confidence. In some ways that is still very much true, ie on scarified pavement, in the rain, on roads with lots of "tar snakes" - even on GRAVEL which used to really get me all tensed up (I had dropped previous bikes on gravel). And in the beginning, yes I do believe that applied to the twistie-turnies. You may be right that I made that comment before I put the lowering blocs on it. Not sure. Hmmmm ....
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,164
Likes: 6
From: Greenfield, Massachusetts
the apes are too high for you to get your body over the bike properly to negotiate the turns. There is a big difference between the way a turn can be taken when you are upright or leaned back a little vs poised forward and read to lean. You don't see apes on racing bikes. Anyways short of changing bars to a lower setup, you have to learn to lean forward a little into your bars when going into the turns. Bring your body towards the tank and you'll see what I mean. Also you can angle your current apes closer to you to bring your hands closer to the body and lower and see if that helps.
And, before I incur expense of changing out the bars, I may try moving them even a little more forward to me. I did that very slightly last week and like the feel. But it is still a bit of a stretch. You will laugh, but I am a bit over finicky about liking everything to line up on my bike, and I do not care for the look of apes that are more vertical, and not sure I will like the look of apes that are visually off balance the other way either, ha ha! But .. worth a try to see if I like the FEEL better.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,164
Likes: 6
From: Greenfield, Massachusetts
As mentioned above, your bike layout is not the best canyon carver setup, but I think it should not be that bad. The cruising rake and handle bars are probably the worst culprits, but how are your tires? Are they worn in the center? To canyon carve comfortably, you need to be leaned forward a bit with flatter bars, but that may not be comfortable for you. There are tires that have better profiles that are much more responsive to turn in and easier to lean with. Also, the lower the center of gravity, the harder it is to lean but easier it is to pick up.
Anyway, let me throw this out since you are looking for ideas here. Perhaps you may be anxious about scraping pegs on your lowered bike or not being able to get this heavy bike upright after the sharp turn, which in turn is making you tense. The bike may be heavy, but you need to "own" it, have confidence that it will do what it is told. It will be happy to.
It may seem to you that you are leaned way over, but in fact you may not be and have plenty of clearance. You may have less anxiety by keeping your body more upright and counter steering more, counter steering should easily get you leaned way over. Maybe scrape a peg now and again, just to get uses to it... although I must admit scraping pegs is not something I like to do. Dive into a turn smoothly, counter steer to pick it back up. It takes practice to gain confidence and there are plenty of riders that are cautious on sharp corners.
If this could be the case, I think taking a more advanced rider course, perhaps on a smaller more nimble bike, will get you over the hump.
By any chance, do other riders have the same difficulty with your bike?
BTW, Rt 2 is one of my favorite rides. Second only to following the mass/nh coast off season. I used to love 119 too, but its gotten a bit bumpy. You can ride with me anytime as I am generally looking at the scenery and not pushing it, just too many street hazards.
Anyway, let me throw this out since you are looking for ideas here. Perhaps you may be anxious about scraping pegs on your lowered bike or not being able to get this heavy bike upright after the sharp turn, which in turn is making you tense. The bike may be heavy, but you need to "own" it, have confidence that it will do what it is told. It will be happy to.
It may seem to you that you are leaned way over, but in fact you may not be and have plenty of clearance. You may have less anxiety by keeping your body more upright and counter steering more, counter steering should easily get you leaned way over. Maybe scrape a peg now and again, just to get uses to it... although I must admit scraping pegs is not something I like to do. Dive into a turn smoothly, counter steer to pick it back up. It takes practice to gain confidence and there are plenty of riders that are cautious on sharp corners.
If this could be the case, I think taking a more advanced rider course, perhaps on a smaller more nimble bike, will get you over the hump.
By any chance, do other riders have the same difficulty with your bike?
BTW, Rt 2 is one of my favorite rides. Second only to following the mass/nh coast off season. I used to love 119 too, but its gotten a bit bumpy. You can ride with me anytime as I am generally looking at the scenery and not pushing it, just too many street hazards.
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
I would look into the bars. Taller bars are a double-edged sword - they help many people with reach or back pain issues. However, it shifts more of your body weight onto your tailbone, and provides less leverage on the bars. See if you can find a dealer running demo rides and try a Softail Deluxe - it is low to the ground and has moderate rise, wide bars. It won't handle as well as your Dyna, but you should be able to tell if the bar configuration helps or hurts your confidence level in the twisties.
Stage I
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: phx,az
the biggest mistake people make in turns is not looking where they want to go! when your hard in a turn you need to look at the road ahead where you want to ride, if you look at the oncomming traffic, side/shoulder, other riders etc you will drift towards what your looking at. You will then find yourself having to fight the bike and raod to get back into a smooth turn. practice this and you will even lurn to accelerate into the turns which will allow the bike to do the hard stuff.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,164
Likes: 6
From: Greenfield, Massachusetts
Well, hubby just called me and told me on his lunch break he went home and lowered the front as much as he could - probably 1/2 to 3/8" he said. So we'll see if that makes ANY difference. Still need to check the tire pressure. I can do that myself :-)
As for looking into turns, I definitely DO do that. Problems arise however when most of the turns are blind - you can only see so far. (And perhaps that is one of my "anxieties" I need to overcome - the fear of coming around the bend and having a car or some other object in my lane of travel!). Again though, after all this time, I shouldn't be so anxious.
I am thinking I will ask the dealer if I can test ride some other bikes. We are good customers, and I am sure they will have no problem. I CANNOT afford to trade right now, and I really do love the Street Bob most of the time. But trying some other models may give me a clue as to if there is maybe a better handlebar setup for me, etc.
Meanwhile - I'll keep riding and keep practicing!
Thanks again.
As for looking into turns, I definitely DO do that. Problems arise however when most of the turns are blind - you can only see so far. (And perhaps that is one of my "anxieties" I need to overcome - the fear of coming around the bend and having a car or some other object in my lane of travel!). Again though, after all this time, I shouldn't be so anxious.
I am thinking I will ask the dealer if I can test ride some other bikes. We are good customers, and I am sure they will have no problem. I CANNOT afford to trade right now, and I really do love the Street Bob most of the time. But trying some other models may give me a clue as to if there is maybe a better handlebar setup for me, etc.
Meanwhile - I'll keep riding and keep practicing!
Thanks again.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 463
Likes: 2
From: Buffalo, NY
In motocross you ALWAYS mover your body forward on the seat when you take turns. So far forward you are almost sitting on the tank.
Also, why do you thing road racers (i.e. crotch rockets riders) are positioned over the tank; over the center of gravity on the bike? Because you are balanced on the bike and it feels better in the turns.
Also, why do you thing road racers (i.e. crotch rockets riders) are positioned over the tank; over the center of gravity on the bike? Because you are balanced on the bike and it feels better in the turns.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
From: Mississippi
the biggest mistake people make in turns is not looking where they want to go! when your hard in a turn you need to look at the road ahead where you want to ride, if you look at the oncomming traffic, side/shoulder, other riders etc you will drift towards what your looking at. You will then find yourself having to fight the bike and raod to get back into a smooth turn. practice this and you will even lurn to accelerate into the turns which will allow the bike to do the hard stuff.
as far as the lowering blocks on your bike THAT IS the problem with cornering. i have raced motocross, roadracing, and race motard now. ALL bikes will have the same effect when you lower the forks through the triple trees(have more of the top of the shock out of the top tree) you will gain more steering. when you push the shock through the top tree you will loose steering. when you lowered the rear end you took weight OFF the front end hence you lost some steering.
Last edited by torkrollin; Sep 14, 2009 at 12:02 PM.
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I'd have to disagree Lucky. I have 16" apes...and I had zero issues riding the Dragon a few weeks back. It took no energy on my part to navigate those tight turns. Sniper77 has T-bars and he seemed to have to force his bike through the turns and was physically exhausted after running it a few times.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 45,429
Likes: 2,898
From: Bedford UK
I suspect a good deal shorter! I reckon part of Perch's problem is the geometry of her arms and handlebars, as I described earlier. She needs someone to take a look at her riding position and riding style, to see if any adjustments will help.