103 vs 107 vs 110
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 584
Likes: 0
wow
what else you got in that baby??
what else you got in that baby??
A couple years ago I got a good deal on a new SE 4 3/8 crank and over the winter my 88 became a 103...111hp/117ft lbs...
I considered boring the spigots and going "larger" but there comes a point when other components have to be upgraded as well (ie clutch) and with only an SE pressure plate my bike has run hard for 2 years now with no problems. Having said that; I'm planning on taking off the top end this winter to check the crank and heads; if the crank has to come out for re-bearing or whatever I'll go 113inch. The 110 has a different spigot that once done won't allow other cylinders to be used; at least that's the way I read it in the SE catalog...as far as aftermarket cylinders; I'm sure they're OK, but I prefer to use as much SE stuff as I can. Check the torque below 2500rpm on the dyno sheet; that's the kind of curve I like and a 113 should move the numbers up nearly 10%.....
I considered boring the spigots and going "larger" but there comes a point when other components have to be upgraded as well (ie clutch) and with only an SE pressure plate my bike has run hard for 2 years now with no problems. Having said that; I'm planning on taking off the top end this winter to check the crank and heads; if the crank has to come out for re-bearing or whatever I'll go 113inch. The 110 has a different spigot that once done won't allow other cylinders to be used; at least that's the way I read it in the SE catalog...as far as aftermarket cylinders; I'm sure they're OK, but I prefer to use as much SE stuff as I can. Check the torque below 2500rpm on the dyno sheet; that's the kind of curve I like and a 113 should move the numbers up nearly 10%.....
Road Captain
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 682
Likes: 1
From: Wichita, KS
Depends on how much you want and how much you want to spend. A 103" is a real nice bump over stock. After doing a 107", I'm not sure if it's worth the price of Axtell cylinders for 4". Make sure and check your crank for run out. If it's out of tolerance,it's a no brainer. If it's in tolerance, 107" is MAX!
If you're going to split the cases for 110", then the stock crank isn't staying either. So, now go with a larger Darkhorse crank and go to a 120" while you were in there. That's what I would do.
Have fun, it's an addiction!
Mike
If you're going to split the cases for 110", then the stock crank isn't staying either. So, now go with a larger Darkhorse crank and go to a 120" while you were in there. That's what I would do.
Have fun, it's an addiction!
Mike
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 249
Likes: 2
From: Stamford, CT
Greg
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,870
Likes: 499
From: Alberta
Headquarters heads, cams, lifters and ignition. HQ also provided the pistons and bored the cylinders. SE crank, perfect fit pushrods, 51CV and pressure plate. Pipes are 2" Cycle Shack 2-2 tapered (stock looking.....)
The bike has Excell aluminum rims, Lyndal composite rotors and Sputhe engine mounts and aluminum swingarm...weight with 1/2 tank of fuel is 607. It's met my goal of being able to pass loaded mini vans and semi's with ease on any road. Performance should include handling and stopping, not just leaving the green light.
The bike has Excell aluminum rims, Lyndal composite rotors and Sputhe engine mounts and aluminum swingarm...weight with 1/2 tank of fuel is 607. It's met my goal of being able to pass loaded mini vans and semi's with ease on any road. Performance should include handling and stopping, not just leaving the green light.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,082
Likes: 11
From: Long Island, NY
Be careful, performance mods can become addictive!
I went from a stock 88" to a Stage 1 88", then did the cams. Then went to 95" with more aggressive cams and work to the heads and a new carb, then went to 107". Now I'm at 117" with new heads, pipes, cams .... (I think this is it - bike is a monster off the line and just keeps on pulling).
Point is, performance mods get expensive. If I went staright to the 117" I would have saved a lot of $ along the way. Strange thing is, I'm glad I did it the way I did since it was almost like getting a new bike with each upgrade and you can really appreciate the improvement along the way.
Good luck and have fun!
I went from a stock 88" to a Stage 1 88", then did the cams. Then went to 95" with more aggressive cams and work to the heads and a new carb, then went to 107". Now I'm at 117" with new heads, pipes, cams .... (I think this is it - bike is a monster off the line and just keeps on pulling).
Point is, performance mods get expensive. If I went staright to the 117" I would have saved a lot of $ along the way. Strange thing is, I'm glad I did it the way I did since it was almost like getting a new bike with each upgrade and you can really appreciate the improvement along the way.
Good luck and have fun!
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Russia
Hi everyone!
I have a 2011 Dyna Wide Glide, Twin Cam 96 c.i. so far its all stock.
I am considering mods soon. What would you suggest - go for 106/107 kit or get new 110 HD motor (this way no case boring, dealer installation, warranty)? will the 110 motor fit into Dyna frame?
thanks!
I have a 2011 Dyna Wide Glide, Twin Cam 96 c.i. so far its all stock.
I am considering mods soon. What would you suggest - go for 106/107 kit or get new 110 HD motor (this way no case boring, dealer installation, warranty)? will the 110 motor fit into Dyna frame?
thanks!
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,724
Likes: 205
From: ORYGON
hi everyone!
I have a 2011 dyna wide glide, twin cam 96 c.i. So far its all stock.
I am considering mods soon. What would you suggest - go for 106/107 kit or get new 110 hd motor (this way no case boring, dealer installation, warranty)? Will the 110 motor fit into dyna frame?
Thanks!
I have a 2011 dyna wide glide, twin cam 96 c.i. So far its all stock.
I am considering mods soon. What would you suggest - go for 106/107 kit or get new 110 hd motor (this way no case boring, dealer installation, warranty)? Will the 110 motor fit into dyna frame?
Thanks!
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,870
Likes: 499
From: Alberta
Sergeich; welcome to this American obsession...I wouldn't bother with a 110 if you were swapping motors anyhow; go with the 120R; if it's "allowed" on the street over there; don't know what kind of vehicle testing you have...as far as the stock motor, a mild drop on 103 is as far as I'd go with upgrading a 96 without splitting the cases...if you have to pull the motor and split the cases, then you may as well buy a 120R and save on the hassle of an engine builder...back when I did my motor we didn't have as many options.
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Road Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 934
Likes: 0
From: PNW, USA
yep, forget the 110 - have one in my CVO springer. Really don't like its power curve much. I would go either the high road or low road.
High - 120R about $8K crate installed
Low - mild 103 maybe stage 2 cost about $4K I bet.
You decide on how much. You get what you pay for
Personally I went from a screaming 95 to a 120R and I'm not looking back, course I wanted more power, much more. Its a thirst that you can never quench once you start drinking. That what you got ask yourself first - do I want to jump in the water?, second how much how soon? i.e. big steps or small steps. Taking small steps takes longer and costs less at any one step, but cost more in the end. Its like a loan. If you can afford it take bigs steps. Cause the destination is the same with either path - the poor house with a fast MC in the garage.
High - 120R about $8K crate installed
Low - mild 103 maybe stage 2 cost about $4K I bet.
You decide on how much. You get what you pay for
Personally I went from a screaming 95 to a 120R and I'm not looking back, course I wanted more power, much more. Its a thirst that you can never quench once you start drinking. That what you got ask yourself first - do I want to jump in the water?, second how much how soon? i.e. big steps or small steps. Taking small steps takes longer and costs less at any one step, but cost more in the end. Its like a loan. If you can afford it take bigs steps. Cause the destination is the same with either path - the poor house with a fast MC in the garage.