103 vs 107 vs 110
I have a 106 and I absolutely love it. It's the S&S version. With the t6-6 cams my bike puts down 107hp/115tq.
It hits 100lbs/tq at 2300rpms and stays over 100 til about 5000 rpm then the hp keeps climbing til the rev limit.
My dyno tuner was absolutely excellent. The bike will spin the rear tire on a roll in second gear,gets 42-45 mpg and the power range is awesome at any throttle position or speed.
Forget that 96,add 10 cubes and fall in love with your bike every time you start it
It hits 100lbs/tq at 2300rpms and stays over 100 til about 5000 rpm then the hp keeps climbing til the rev limit.
My dyno tuner was absolutely excellent. The bike will spin the rear tire on a roll in second gear,gets 42-45 mpg and the power range is awesome at any throttle position or speed.
Forget that 96,add 10 cubes and fall in love with your bike every time you start it
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Russia
Other things to consider when your are planning mods in Moscow are:
- prices for HD SE parts are catalog prices x2
- in Moscow we have HD dealers, but we don't have parts availability like in the US. I can't just walk in the showroom and get any parts from SE catalog, most of them I have to order and wait.
- The last point also means I have to choose the right part in the first place - no room for mistakes
- There is an S&S dealer also, but they also work on order basis with similar pricing I guess.
- Other brands are hard to find. I travel to the US couple of times a year and can bring some parts in my luggage, but that's a real slow way to build a bike
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Russia
I have a 106 and I absolutely love it. It's the S&S version. With the t6-6 cams my bike puts down 107hp/115tq.
It hits 100lbs/tq at 2300rpms and stays over 100 til about 5000 rpm then the hp keeps climbing til the rev limit.
My dyno tuner was absolutely excellent. The bike will spin the rear tire on a roll in second gear,gets 42-45 mpg and the power range is awesome at any throttle position or speed.
Forget that 96,add 10 cubes and fall in love with your bike every time you start it
It hits 100lbs/tq at 2300rpms and stays over 100 til about 5000 rpm then the hp keeps climbing til the rev limit.
My dyno tuner was absolutely excellent. The bike will spin the rear tire on a roll in second gear,gets 42-45 mpg and the power range is awesome at any throttle position or speed.
Forget that 96,add 10 cubes and fall in love with your bike every time you start it
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Russia
Sergeich; welcome to this American obsession...I wouldn't bother with a 110 if you were swapping motors anyhow; go with the 120R; if it's "allowed" on the street over there; don't know what kind of vehicle testing you have...as far as the stock motor, a mild drop on 103 is as far as I'd go with upgrading a 96 without splitting the cases...if you have to pull the motor and split the cases, then you may as well buy a 120R and save on the hassle of an engine builder...back when I did my motor we didn't have as many options.
- regulations and control of noise level and emissions are not as strict in Russia as in the US. So I am quite sure I will not have any problems running 120R motor
- however I suspect maybe 120 cubic inches is a little too much for street or highway cruising? I have never ridden a bike with engine this big and don't know what it's like.
- What is the fuel economy on 120 c.i. compared with 103 or 106? Any info?
- How is it in terms of vibration, reliability? Common sense suggests that bigger motor has bigger parts, more vibration, more heat, less longevity...
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,760
Likes: 211
From: Manila, Philippines
Seriously consider the 120r. Check out this thread and contact him on what is involved. Given Harleys are expensive in Russia, you can probably sell your original motor for a bit.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...-for-dyna.html
Only negative is fuel consumption and tires as you will be riding full throttle.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...-for-dyna.html
Only negative is fuel consumption and tires as you will be riding full throttle.
Because I am using the S&S tb I had to buy the restricted to only S&S intakes,so I have tge teardrop type.
That's all I can remember off hand.
I am still running off the stock clutch and clutch springs.
I had all this done at 22000 kms. Not sure what translates to in miles(13000 miles maybe)
I've now got 27000 on er.
Everytime I push the start button I get a chill. This thing is absolutely unreal.
Of yeah I also have a propipe,and used 0.030 cometic gasket if that makes a difference.
My tuner spent hours fine tuning this thing. Everything he did,he tested on the dyno,so at every possible rpms the fuel is maximized and at it's optimum level.
My exhaust on just a blip blows little dust huricanes out behind me. And the mileage on the highway is incredible. In town isn't bad,not great but not bad.
Oh yeah,and a pcv
I love this bike.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Connecticut
+1 on Fuel Moto's 107. Power to dollar ratio can't be beat imo. My 107 is only making about 10-12 lb/ft of torque less than quite a few 120r's I've seen... Also Fuel Moto's customer service is second to none
Last edited by BLK107; Jun 1, 2012 at 04:13 PM.
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
From: Russia
yep, forget the 110 - have one in my CVO springer. Really don't like its power curve much. I would go either the high road or low road.
High - 120R about $8K crate installed
Low - mild 103 maybe stage 2 cost about $4K I bet.
You decide on how much. You get what you pay for
Personally I went from a screaming 95 to a 120R and I'm not looking back, course I wanted more power, much more. Its a thirst that you can never quench once you start drinking. That what you got ask yourself first - do I want to jump in the water?, second how much how soon? i.e. big steps or small steps. Taking small steps takes longer and costs less at any one step, but cost more in the end. Its like a loan. If you can afford it take bigs steps. Cause the destination is the same with either path - the poor house with a fast MC in the garage.
High - 120R about $8K crate installed
Low - mild 103 maybe stage 2 cost about $4K I bet.
You decide on how much. You get what you pay for
Personally I went from a screaming 95 to a 120R and I'm not looking back, course I wanted more power, much more. Its a thirst that you can never quench once you start drinking. That what you got ask yourself first - do I want to jump in the water?, second how much how soon? i.e. big steps or small steps. Taking small steps takes longer and costs less at any one step, but cost more in the end. Its like a loan. If you can afford it take bigs steps. Cause the destination is the same with either path - the poor house with a fast MC in the garage.
Actually I was considering either 103 stage 4 or S&S 106 + 58mm SE T-body and 585 cams. But this way there's no big difference in resulting power and torque. I am looking for around 110 hp/115 Nm. SE kit is less expensive, so I'll research the forum about that.
By the way, I've noticed on your pic - are you running RB Racing LSR pipe? How do you find it? I recently bought the same thing, haven;t installed it yet.
Also, what rims do you have on that bike and windshield?