WideGlide Conversion Underway!
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,438
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From: Chesterfield, VA
Jmpancoast, before I assembled the new trees I stood the stock stem and cass county stem side by side and the cass county stem was 1/4" shorter. That is probably to compensate for the the thinner lower tree.
BTW: Anyone know which two wires out of the three I need from the stock harness to wire up this new two wire headlight.
BTW: Anyone know which two wires out of the three I need from the stock harness to wire up this new two wire headlight.
Have you had the chance to check the fork stops and fork lock yet?
John
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 3
From: Chesterfield, VA
The stock harness is three wire, the headlight looked to be two wire. The third wire (the ground) was there, but ran down to ground the headlight at the mount. Once I found the third wire, I soldered and shrink wrapped them to the stock wiring and connector.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Republic of Texas
I guess I am going to have to break out the volt meter and try to figure out which wires I need. The harness coming from the bike has four wires to the plug and from the plug to the headlight is three wires on my bike. I might just buy the lowers WS6 Formula pointed out to me and buy another set of bearings and spacers and start over. That idea is swimming in my head. I got the sigs mounted and wired up, pluged in and ready to go.
Last edited by ghostrider69; Nov 14, 2009 at 05:48 PM.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
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From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
I guess I am going to have to break out the volt meter and try to figure out which wires I need. The harness coming from the bike has four wires to the plug and from the plug to the headlight is three wires on my bike. I might just buy the lowers WS6 Formula pointed out to me and buy another set of bearings and spacers and start over. That idea is swimming in my head. I got the sigs mounted and wired up, pluged in and ready to go.
Info on the chrome front end kits:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Republic of Texas
The wheel is from a 2005 wideglide with the center bored out for the larger spacer tube. The axle and all hardware is 25mm.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Republic of Texas
I think I know what the problem is with the tight wheel. When I installed the bearing inner spacer tube I did not cut it to length. I left it the length it came which does not allow the bearings to seat all the way down into the hub. I did that so that I could use the spacers that came with it because of the narrower lowers instead of having to cut customs length spacers which would have to be longer. I am going to take it off tomorrow, remove the bearings, seat them all the way into the hub and cut the inner spacer tube the length it is supposed to be which will allow the bearings to seat fully into the hub and buy order some spacer stock to cut my own spacers. That should take care of the problem. I think since the bearings are not seated all the way, one of them might be a little cocked in the hub causing this binding problem. I started thinking, the lowers should squeeze against the spacers which squeeze against the inner bearing race which should squeeze against the inner bearing spacer. If all of that is perfect then there shouldn't be any binding. Right or wrong. Thats what you get when you get in a hurry and try to half *** things. It just goes to ****.
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
As I mentioned earlier, I had to shim my caliper and rotor when using my original 2006 sliders and a 2006 aluminum profile Wide Glide Wheel. I was then forced to buy a Wide Glide chrome front end kit on eBay ($99.00 shipped
) and removed the spacers.Since yours lines up already you shouldn't use sliders from the Wide Glide because it would then push your caliper inboard and the fix would be to remove material from the caliper and or the disc mounting points, which may not be a good idea.
Have you seen these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harle...item414a73a7fb