fxdc 09 forward Control
Club Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,474
Likes: 6
From: Port Charlotte, Florida
Very quick and easy job unless you plan to remove the shifter shaft me personelly i just a chrome cover over it and that was that. The install if you do it this way is maybe an hour or just over and some bolts. If you are gung ho to remove the shifter shaft that goes thru the primary then you only have two options cut it on the back side like some have done or take the primary apart. I saw no reason to take apart a perfectly good primary right now so i just put a chrome cap over the shaft coming out and was done in an hour. And if and when i need to go into the primary i will remove the shifter shaft then.
But its basically a cut and dry job remove the pegs bolt on the new set up hook up the shift linkage and on the brake side remove whats there and put on the new brackets and new brake rod
But its basically a cut and dry job remove the pegs bolt on the new set up hook up the shift linkage and on the brake side remove whats there and put on the new brackets and new brake rod
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
Info below:
Info below:
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/index.php?...ategory_id=169, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.lshd1.com/servlet/StoreFront
https://www.surdyke.com/Index.asp
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
http://shop.newcastlehd.com/
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/index.php?...ategory_id=169, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.lshd1.com/servlet/StoreFront
https://www.surdyke.com/Index.asp
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
http://shop.newcastlehd.com/
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
Last edited by WS6 Formula; Mar 30, 2013 at 11:23 AM. Reason: Corrected Links
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 0
From: Southern Maryland
You may want to consider a new seat that moves you closer or have your present one modified.
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6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
forward controls
yea i like the looks and sure looking into changing over to the forward controls; But it bring up one question,is there any steering faults on either side it just looks like it from one picture !! the brake side.?
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Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,382
Likes: 0
From: Southern Maryland
No problems It's just the picture angle.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Upstate SC
I've been fighting this decision for about 9 months now, and probably spent 40 hrs reading all the threads out here on it. I kept thinking I was happy with my mid-controls and hi-way pegs and a little scared to jump in and change it myself, but sure as hell ain't gonna pay 5 hrs labor on top of the $350 parts to have it done at the dealer.
I'm happy to say, we finally jumped. Local dealer had a Christmas Party last Thursday, offering 15% off all accessories. I am going WS6's route (THANK YOU for all of the part numbers and info and BTW that Dragonfly Green is the Baddest-*** color they ever put on a bike). I purchased the older kit with the longer shift rod. With the discount, it all came out to about the same had I got it shipped from Chicago or Zannatti's. Of course the Parts Dept man told me it wouldn't work - I told him I had much more trusted resources out here that tell me it will.
I appreciate all the info you guys have posted on this. I am not cutting my mid-shifter, just going to slide it back and snuggle it behind the engine bolt. They had to order the parts, so I won't get them til next week, but I'll post pics when I'm done, and possible questions/problems encountered during the process. Is there anything special that hasn't been mentioned? Some one said to have the bike in Neutral when changing over - is that important?
Thanks, Guys!
I'm happy to say, we finally jumped. Local dealer had a Christmas Party last Thursday, offering 15% off all accessories. I am going WS6's route (THANK YOU for all of the part numbers and info and BTW that Dragonfly Green is the Baddest-*** color they ever put on a bike). I purchased the older kit with the longer shift rod. With the discount, it all came out to about the same had I got it shipped from Chicago or Zannatti's. Of course the Parts Dept man told me it wouldn't work - I told him I had much more trusted resources out here that tell me it will.
I appreciate all the info you guys have posted on this. I am not cutting my mid-shifter, just going to slide it back and snuggle it behind the engine bolt. They had to order the parts, so I won't get them til next week, but I'll post pics when I'm done, and possible questions/problems encountered during the process. Is there anything special that hasn't been mentioned? Some one said to have the bike in Neutral when changing over - is that important?
Thanks, Guys!