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Showing what a noob I am, I take it the turn is opposite, so to loosen I should turn right once I get the nuts on correct?
Lock the two nuts together, then loosen the bottom one, and the whole stud and all should come out. DO NOT drill that bolt and use an EZ out. STEP AWAY FROM THE EZ OUT!! . Last resort if you have any stud sticking out beyond the head, is to weld a nut onto the stud. Trying to drill a grade 8 5/16" stud and keep the bit centered, is almost impossible. This is a very easy thing to do, without creating more headache for yourself.
Lock the two nuts together, then loosen the bottom one, and the whole stud and all should come out. DO NOT drill that bolt and use an EZ out. STEP AWAY FROM THE EZ OUT!! . Last resort if you have any stud sticking out beyond the head, is to weld a nut onto the stud. Trying to drill a grade 8 5/16" stud and keep the bit centered, is almost impossible. This is a very easy thing to do, without creating more headache for yourself.
Awesome thanks! I am going to try the nut theory, since there is enough of the stud sticking out. To lock the nuts together I just use two flange nuts, one upside down, correct? So then they would look like a flying saucer? Sorry, I am having a hard time visualizing this one...
If I understand correctly, the stud is a screw in stud. Double nut the stud as Nightking indicates in his prior post. Then put your box end wrench on the nut that is closest to the cylinder jug. Loosen to the left as normal - and this will put twisting action against the other nut which will loosen the stud. If the top nut (the one farthest from the cylinder jug) moves, just hold it in place with a ratchet/socket. A helper might be in order for this one to make it easier.
Any two nuts that fit the threaded portion. Put one on as far as it will go, then back it off 1/4 turn. Then put another nut onto the threaded portion up to the first nut. On the back one, turn the wrench counterclockwise. At the same time on the front nut, turn another wrench clockwise. This will lock the two nuts together, slightly away from the jug. Now, put a wrench only on the back nut and turn the whole assembly counterclockwise to remove the broken stud.
If you have to use an ez out, do yourself a favor and get one from the SnapOn truck. I paid less then $5 for an 1/8 inch extractor. I'm a mechanic and I been usin the same one for over 3 years and it works every time. Don't be intimidated, drillin out a broken fastener ain't that bad. I do it about once a week!
i just want to say real quick this thread is a perfect example of why i love this forum !!!! all great help when someone is in crisis and no smartass remarks about the question! BRAVO guys for real!
If I remember correctly, someone posted on another thread to use a vibration engraving tool and it would come right out. Iv'e never tried this, I can't understand how it would work, but several people had sworn by it.
All sound advice here. Now if I were in this pickle I would start by removing both heads and sending them in for porting (I really want to do this, just need a good reason). Of course this would expose the wear in the cylinders leading to removal and an "overbore" of the jugs. So easy to get carried away..............
Lock the two nuts together, then loosen the bottom one, and the whole stud and all should come out. DO NOT drill that bolt and use an EZ out. STEP AWAY FROM THE EZ OUT!! . Last resort if you have any stud sticking out beyond the head, is to weld a nut onto the stud. Trying to drill a grade 8 5/16" stud and keep the bit centered, is almost impossible. This is a very easy thing to do, without creating more headache for yourself.
+1 using an easy out can wind up turning into a repair to get an easy out out of the too. Total last resort.
Originally Posted by Lyle_O
If I remember correctly, someone posted on another thread to use a vibration engraving tool and it would come right out. Iv'e never tried this, I can't understand how it would work, but several people had sworn by it.
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