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Ya I was told to not wast money on the tool. And to just do it by the "seat of the pants" kinda way. If it takes quite a bit of force to get it to flex 1/4". And you really don't want to push on it any harder, then it's right. But if you can flex it 1/4", and it feels like you could go further, it's to loose.
Ya I was told to not wast money on the tool. And to just do it by the "seat of the pants" kinda way. If it takes quite a bit of force to get it to flex 1/4". And you really don't want to push on it any harder, then it's right. But if you can flex it 1/4", and it feels like you could go further, it's to loose.
This is why these tools are invented. What feels like "quite a bit of force" is going to be different from one person to the next.
Make a tool.
Piece of 3/8 tubing, close one end, drop a spring inside it, slip a piece of a wooden dowel inside, go to the local market....push down on their produce scale until scale reads 10 lbs. force. Mark the dowel at the lower edge of the tubing, presto, now ya got the tool ya need. Probably got the stuff to make it around your garage!
This is why these tools are invented. What feels like "quite a bit of force" is going to be different from one person to the next.
Ya I can't dispute that. But most wrenchers know the difference between the force it takes to brake something. And the force it takes to gets something tight. It was explained to me that after cresting the 10# mark, your virtually pushing on a wall to get any more movement at all. Tried it on my bike after the 1k inspection. My conclusion is that the guy was right.
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