103" build?
Assuming you retain the stock heads, the 103 kit will only slightly increase the compression ratio from around 9.3:1 to around 9.6:1 ... unless you request for them to install high compression pistons which will increase compression above 10:1-10.5:1 range ....
If you don't exceed 10:1 compression ratio, you can probably get by without compression releases ....
A lot of guys 'do-it-yourself' with something like this and you can get pretty good deals using Zanotti or Chicago Harley Davidson or Surdyke or New Roc ... etc. A number of HD dealers with online parts divisions that will discount about 20-25% ... but, you might not get a 'package' deal from your dealership if you show up with your SE parts in hand that you got from a discounter ....
Another good option would be to find a good 'indy' (independent bike mechanic shop) in your local area with a good reputation ... will likely have better labor rates and be more amenable to installing parts you bring with ....
A lot of guys really sweat the warranty ... and there a quite a few stories on here and elsewhere where guys have been saved from a jam by their warranty, but I am in the camp that says 'so what' ... seems like a lot of newbie questions obsess with 'what can I do without voiding the warranty' ....
Not raggin' ya, but just saying ... guess I have a little different perspective having been 'out of warranty' for a couple years now ... lol
You should get some pretty good advice on here ... something else you might try if you haven't already is doing a search for guys either asking questions about their 103" builds or reporting their results of their builds ....
Good luck and stay safe on deployment ....
R/
'Chop
If you don't exceed 10:1 compression ratio, you can probably get by without compression releases ....
A lot of guys 'do-it-yourself' with something like this and you can get pretty good deals using Zanotti or Chicago Harley Davidson or Surdyke or New Roc ... etc. A number of HD dealers with online parts divisions that will discount about 20-25% ... but, you might not get a 'package' deal from your dealership if you show up with your SE parts in hand that you got from a discounter ....
Another good option would be to find a good 'indy' (independent bike mechanic shop) in your local area with a good reputation ... will likely have better labor rates and be more amenable to installing parts you bring with ....
A lot of guys really sweat the warranty ... and there a quite a few stories on here and elsewhere where guys have been saved from a jam by their warranty, but I am in the camp that says 'so what' ... seems like a lot of newbie questions obsess with 'what can I do without voiding the warranty' ....
Not raggin' ya, but just saying ... guess I have a little different perspective having been 'out of warranty' for a couple years now ... lol
You should get some pretty good advice on here ... something else you might try if you haven't already is doing a search for guys either asking questions about their 103" builds or reporting their results of their builds ....
Good luck and stay safe on deployment ....
R/
'Chop
You can have them installed in the stock heads. To give you an idea of what is possible with the se 103" build, here's mine. 110+ heads ported & polished,10.5 forged pistons,260 cams,heavy breather,stock throttle body/injectors,big radius pipes,sert = 112/hp & 111/tq. I could probably gain a few more going to a 2-1 pipe, but just don't care for the looks. I'll have to get a new video up, cause it sounds even better than it did before.
Last edited by red devil; Feb 21, 2010 at 09:47 PM.
If you don't exceed 10:1 compression ratio, you can probably get by without compression releases ....
A lot of guys really sweat the warranty ... and there a quite a few stories on here and elsewhere where guys have been saved from a jam by their warranty, but I am in the camp that says 'so what' ... seems like a lot of newbie questions obsess with 'what can I do without voiding the warranty' ....
Good luck and stay safe on deployment ....
R/
'Chop
A lot of guys really sweat the warranty ... and there a quite a few stories on here and elsewhere where guys have been saved from a jam by their warranty, but I am in the camp that says 'so what' ... seems like a lot of newbie questions obsess with 'what can I do without voiding the warranty' ....
Good luck and stay safe on deployment ....
R/
'Chop
Dropped my bike off at the shop Saturday, should have it back in a couple of weeks. Weather was warm enough to ride today, will be a long couple of weeks if the weather stays nice.
Good luck with your decision and agree with Chop, hope your deployment is safe and uneventful.
Maybe you wanna look at this new SE cam:
SCREAMIN’ EAGLE PRO TWIN CAM PERFORMANCE CAM KIT – SE-254E**
This cam provides great low end torque along with good midrange. A good “all-around” cam. Kit includes front and rear cams. Splined rear cam is included for exceptional load handling capability. Gaskets and bearings not included. Dealer installation is recommended, and special tools are required for proper installation. Cam Installation Kit P/N 17045-99C (sold separately) includes all required gaskets, bearings and seals for proper installation. All EFI models require ECM calibration (priced separately). For race application only.
Part No.25503-10 $299.95
Fits ’06-later Dyna and ’07-later Softail and Touring models.
Lift @ Valve – Intake/Exhaust 535"/.536"
Duration @.053 – Intake/Exhaust 224˚/234˚
Timing @.053 Lift – Open/Close Intake: 1˚ BTDC/43˚ ABDC
Timing @.053 Lift – Open/Close Exhaust: 50˚ BBDC/4˚ ATDC
TDC Lift @ Valve – Intake/Exhaust 0.094"/.102"
SCREAMIN’ EAGLE PRO TWIN CAM PERFORMANCE CAM KIT – SE-254E**
This cam provides great low end torque along with good midrange. A good “all-around” cam. Kit includes front and rear cams. Splined rear cam is included for exceptional load handling capability. Gaskets and bearings not included. Dealer installation is recommended, and special tools are required for proper installation. Cam Installation Kit P/N 17045-99C (sold separately) includes all required gaskets, bearings and seals for proper installation. All EFI models require ECM calibration (priced separately). For race application only.
Part No.25503-10 $299.95
Fits ’06-later Dyna and ’07-later Softail and Touring models.
Lift @ Valve – Intake/Exhaust 535"/.536"
Duration @.053 – Intake/Exhaust 224˚/234˚
Timing @.053 Lift – Open/Close Intake: 1˚ BTDC/43˚ ABDC
Timing @.053 Lift – Open/Close Exhaust: 50˚ BBDC/4˚ ATDC
TDC Lift @ Valve – Intake/Exhaust 0.094"/.102"
Last edited by Rebel78; Feb 22, 2010 at 11:08 AM.
Maybe you wanna look at this new SE cam:
SCREAMIN’ EAGLE PRO TWIN CAM PERFORMANCE CAM KIT – SE-254E**
This cam provides great low end torque along with good midrange. A good “all-around” cam. Kit includes front and rear cams. Splined rear cam is included for exceptional
load handling capability. Gaskets and bearings not included. Dealer installation is recommended, and special tools are required for proper installation. Cam Installation Kit
P/N 17045-99C (sold separately) includes all required gaskets, bearings and seals for proper installation. All EFI models require ECM calibration (priced separately). For race
application only.
Part No.25503-10 $299.95
Fits ’06-later Dyna and ’07-later Softail and Touring models.
Lift @ Valve – Intake/Exhaust 535"/.536"
Duration @.053 – Intake/Exhaust 224˚/234˚
Timing @.053 Lift – Open/Close Intake: 1˚ BTDC/43˚ ABDC
Timing @.053 Lift – Open/Close Exhaust: 50˚ BBDC/4˚ ATDC
TDC Lift @ Valve – Intake/Exhaust 0.094"/.102"
SCREAMIN’ EAGLE PRO TWIN CAM PERFORMANCE CAM KIT – SE-254E**
This cam provides great low end torque along with good midrange. A good “all-around” cam. Kit includes front and rear cams. Splined rear cam is included for exceptional
load handling capability. Gaskets and bearings not included. Dealer installation is recommended, and special tools are required for proper installation. Cam Installation Kit
P/N 17045-99C (sold separately) includes all required gaskets, bearings and seals for proper installation. All EFI models require ECM calibration (priced separately). For race
application only.
Part No.25503-10 $299.95
Fits ’06-later Dyna and ’07-later Softail and Touring models.
Lift @ Valve – Intake/Exhaust 535"/.536"
Duration @.053 – Intake/Exhaust 224˚/234˚
Timing @.053 Lift – Open/Close Intake: 1˚ BTDC/43˚ ABDC
Timing @.053 Lift – Open/Close Exhaust: 50˚ BBDC/4˚ ATDC
TDC Lift @ Valve – Intake/Exhaust 0.094"/.102"
NEW EFI CAMS
Available for ’06-later EFI Twin Cam models, “E” cams feature a unique lobe design that controls the valves for a higher lift with a shorter duration. This allows us to remove overlap, and take advantage of the EFI system to improve performance without impacting part throttle drivability.
254E
259E
263E
266E
Available for ’06-later EFI Twin Cam models, “E” cams feature a unique lobe design that controls the valves for a higher lift with a shorter duration. This allows us to remove overlap, and take advantage of the EFI system to improve performance without impacting part throttle drivability.
254E
259E
263E
266E
I have factory stage 2 103's in both my Dyna and RG.
Parts, from Zanotti's or similar. are maybe $800-1000, depending on exactly what you get (i,e, do you get quick install pushrods, do you already have a stage aircleaner, etc) I would definitely recommend ACRs (compression releases). Retail will be 20-25% more depending on sales tax in your area.
If you don't already have tunable system (power commander, SERT, etc) figure $250-400, maybe more.
If you plan to change pipes, do it now.
Head work prices vary a lot. I got prices from $500-1000...decided to pass.
If you do much past the stage 2 think about a different clutch.
Dyno costs seem to run $200-400.
Labor, including the ACRs will be all over the place, I paid $850 in the LA area at a dealer, which for me was important.
Many of the OTD prices the dealers quote do not include ACRs, and some don't include the cams either (i.e. just a big bore). Be sure you get a specific list.
On my RG, I kept the stock pipes (don't like noise), and got a PC from Fuel moto. Got ACRs and a Stage 2. Total price, after I get it dynoed will be about $2,000.
I really like the increased power, particularly the low end.
Parts, from Zanotti's or similar. are maybe $800-1000, depending on exactly what you get (i,e, do you get quick install pushrods, do you already have a stage aircleaner, etc) I would definitely recommend ACRs (compression releases). Retail will be 20-25% more depending on sales tax in your area.
If you don't already have tunable system (power commander, SERT, etc) figure $250-400, maybe more.
If you plan to change pipes, do it now.
Head work prices vary a lot. I got prices from $500-1000...decided to pass.
If you do much past the stage 2 think about a different clutch.
Dyno costs seem to run $200-400.
Labor, including the ACRs will be all over the place, I paid $850 in the LA area at a dealer, which for me was important.
Many of the OTD prices the dealers quote do not include ACRs, and some don't include the cams either (i.e. just a big bore). Be sure you get a specific list.
On my RG, I kept the stock pipes (don't like noise), and got a PC from Fuel moto. Got ACRs and a Stage 2. Total price, after I get it dynoed will be about $2,000.
I really like the increased power, particularly the low end.
what kind of numbers should i hope to get with the stage 2 kit... and my short shots and se high flow air filter and also SERT? just wondering if it will be a big difference....
I am not into the numbers. just want a more reponsive motor, so I didn't pay any attention. However, there are lots and lots of threads on this forum where guys post this.
On both my bikes I noticed a huge difference. Noticable the first time I took off. For several months I had the Stage 2 in one bike, and the Stage 1 in the other, so I got to compare all the time.
There are clearly ways to get more power than the Stage 2 gets, but the Stage 2 will be a significant increase over what you have.
If power is important, as others have siad, you might want to considier other exhausts. I had V&H Big Radius in my FXD, went to 2-1 D&D Fatcat, then the new stock HD black pipes. The Big Radius looked cool as hell, but made low power. Very noticable improvemt when I went to the D&D.
On both my bikes I noticed a huge difference. Noticable the first time I took off. For several months I had the Stage 2 in one bike, and the Stage 1 in the other, so I got to compare all the time.
There are clearly ways to get more power than the Stage 2 gets, but the Stage 2 will be a significant increase over what you have.
If power is important, as others have siad, you might want to considier other exhausts. I had V&H Big Radius in my FXD, went to 2-1 D&D Fatcat, then the new stock HD black pipes. The Big Radius looked cool as hell, but made low power. Very noticable improvemt when I went to the D&D.


