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Sears red jack modification

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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:00 AM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by ShortFatMexican
Vic,

I did just that, cut it all the way out and I don't notice any difference. FYI, my 09 FXDB is not lowered and I still have to roll it up on 2x4". Thanks again for the great idea. The only reason I bought this lift is because of your idea.
Hmm....so on the sidestand your bike is too low for the jack to slide underneath? Doesn't the SB come with 12" shocks? My WG has 12.6" (why such an odd size? lol) Maybe that .5" makes a difference.

What if you crank the shocks up to the tallest setting (#5)?
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:06 AM
  #172  
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Great Idea - I have the northern tools lift which I think is made by the same company only painted yellow. This should help. With the stock configuration my bikes feel a bit unsafe on the lift. Im heading to Ace Hardware right after work!!

Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
I'm not sure if anyone has thought of this but I came up with a solution to a problem that a lot of us have using the Sears red jack to lift our Dynas.

I certainly can't afford to spend $400 or so on a J&S or Pitbull that is built wide enough so the h-d lift adapters aren't necessary.

This technically falls within the 'Under $50' thread and I may post it there also but for now...here it is for your viewing pleasure.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8lanUaFQNE
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:20 AM
  #173  
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Originally Posted by scotts10rkc
Great Idea - I have the northern tools lift which I think is made by the same company only painted yellow. This should help. With the stock configuration my bikes feel a bit unsafe on the lift. Im heading to Ace Hardware right after work!!
Yeah, those jacks are very similar. Widening the stance, at least to me, does make the bike feel more stable while lifted.

I know some of us here have added 1/2" spacers to each side. I believe it's to clear the jiffy stand just a little more.

I recently put the jack back to stock config because I've been working on my isolators. With this mod, it interferes with them just enough not to be able to properly work with them. You experience the same issue with the high end jacks too. Anyway, I used my wheel chock to stand the bike up. Installed the lift adapters, slid the jack underneath and lifted the bike. I truly hate those adapters. The bike is not stable AT ALL. I definitely strapped it down while lifted.

Just keep this in mind for future reference.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:28 AM
  #174  
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This makes me think of something. What if you use quick connect pins instead of bolts. You know the ones similar to what is used for trailor pins. It would be quick easy way to change back and forth.

Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
Yeah, those jacks are very similar. Widening the stance, at least to me, does make the bike feel more stable while lifted.

I know some of us here have added 1/2" spacers to each side. I believe it's to clear the jiffy stand just a little more.

I recently put the jack back to stock config because I've been working on my isolators. With this mod, it interferes with them just enough not to be able to properly work with them. You experience the same issue with the high end jacks too. Anyway, I used my wheel chock to stand the bike up. Installed the lift adapters, slid the jack underneath and lifted the bike. I truly hate those adapters. The bike is not stable AT ALL. I definitely strapped it down while lifted.

Just keep this in mind for future reference.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 08:59 AM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by hdgzr
Has anyone done the "mod" to this jack from Sears?
best mod I did for my sears yeallow jack was sell it
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 09:30 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by scotts10rkc
This makes me think of something. What if you use quick connect pins instead of bolts. You know the ones similar to what is used for trailor pins. It would be quick easy way to change back and forth.
Not a bad idea but... the stock bolts are 2.5"-3". The mod bolts are 6". Second, I'm not sure those hitch-pin style you're referring to would have the load psi for safe operation.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 09:30 AM
  #177  
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" I thought the bolts were bending a little bit under load, but that could be an optical delusion."

i've noticed this as well--thought about getting a piece of threaded bar and bolts and replacing the center piece for stabilty.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 09:32 AM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by mang0
" I thought the bolts were bending a little bit under load, but that could be an optical delusion."

i've noticed this as well--thought about getting a piece of threaded bar and bolts and replacing the center piece for stabilty.
I used grade 8 bolts and they are as straight as the day I bought them.

I'm not sure what grade you're using or the quality but at most they should be handling ~150-175lbs on each bolt. Our bikes weight (wet) in the area of 650-700 lbs.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 09:54 AM
  #179  
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Good point, that would definately suck if one broke with the bike lifted.

Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
Not a bad idea but... the stock bolts are 2.5"-3". The mod bolts are 6". Second, I'm not sure those hitch-pin style you're referring to would have the load psi for safe operation.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 12:58 PM
  #180  
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i'm not so sure it's the bolts bending as much as it is the lift pads and arms "flexing" downward--thats why i thought maybe repalcing the center bar may help.
 
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