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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
What do you guys use to push them back in there and get the caps started back on? I was thinking of changing the oil in my forks for some heavier oil and was wonderinfg if a fluid extractor would work versus removing the fork tube and inverting?
I used the socket to push it back down with and that worked pretty good.
I think its a 35mm socket but I used a 36mm since my set goes from 34 to 36 and it worked fine.
What do you guys use to push them back in there and get the caps started back on? I was thinking of changing the oil in my forks for some heavier oil and was wonderinfg if a fluid extractor would work versus removing the fork tube and inverting?
Open the top, and bottom of the tubes on the bike, and drain the oil.
Remove the wheel, brake and fender, and remove the forks from the trees. Place the bottom of the fork tube on the ground (on a towel for protection) and press (by hand) the nuts back on. Turn left 'til you hear the threads click, then right to get them started.
What do you guys use to push them back in there and get the caps started back on? I was thinking of changing the oil in my forks for some heavier oil and was wonderinfg if a fluid extractor would work versus removing the fork tube and inverting?
Did it by hand, working on my Nightster replacing the OEM front fork springs with Progressives. The trick I think was to thread the cap in a bit with out the spacer, then slowly unthread the cap with slight outward pressure to "mark" the exact spot in the rotation that the threads meet. Keeping the cap in rotational position, slip the spacer in, then with both hands push down on the cap until you feel it bottom out. Now rotate it clockwise as best you can while maintaining the pressure to keep it bottomed out. It is a bit tricky, it took me 3-4 tries on each side to get the threading started. Once you've got the threading started by hand, apply your wrench/socket easily, making sure your threads are aligned correctly, and not just caught. I suppose if the pre-load tension for a Street Bob/Dyna is greater than the Nightster's, then this manual process might be problematic. I guess it also depends on your hand strength/dexterity.
Last edited by nightsterO; Feb 18, 2011 at 01:42 PM.
Open the top, and bottom of the tubes on the bike, and drain the oil.
Remove the wheel, brake and fender, and remove the forks from the trees. Place the bottom of the fork tube on the ground (on a towel for protection) and press (by hand) the nuts back on. Turn left 'til you hear the threads click, then right to get them started.
Hope this helps.
Nice tip on the "Turn left 'til you hear the threads click, then right to get them started." Better than the technique I suggested. Actually in certain situations it might work well in combination with my technique. My technique gets you close, your technique closes the deal. Story of my life.
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