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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Got a set of used BR today and my plan was to simply remove the stock baffles put in some BCT QQ baffles, cut off the originals and stack them in behind the BCTs. The best laid plans!!! The first pipe went good took the chrome tip off, removed baffle and proceeded with the plan. The second pipe was a little more work. The screw holding the baffle was gone and it looked like the baffle had been pounded into the pipe. Nothing to grab onto to pull it out. I made a slide hammer by useing a piece off 3/4in. ready rod. I sandwiched three heavy washers between two nuts on the rod. The washers just fit in the baffle but would not go beyond the flat weldnut inside the baffle. I used a 4in. makita grinder to notch the washers just enough to pass over the weldnut and into the baffle. Once beyond the weldnut I would turn the washers to move the notch away from the weldnut and proceeded to slide hammer the baffle out took about twenty minutes and the washers had to be switched a couple off times due to rounding off of the edge. Let me tell you this baby was tight. Once I got it out I cleaned it up a little with a grinder and cut it off and stacked it in against the newley installed BCT QQ . Will install pipes next week. Hope the sound is good. Currently running Rush 1.75 slipons. Kind of proud of what can be done in an old farm shop with whats laying around.LOL Mike
I just removed mine today. Like yourself, the 1st one basically fell out when I removed the screw. The 2nd one - well that's another story. I read somewhere that someone had been able to insert the screw from the inside, then hook a stiff wire around it and yank it out. What came out was the spot welded nut from the inside. Next I mangled the baffle with a screwdriver enough to hook a coat hanger around it. Hooked the other end around a 2x2 piece of wood, and proceeded to hammer. About 2 hours and 3 coat-hangers later it was finally out. I put in a flathead 10-24 screw stacked with large washers and an ESNA nut to hold everything in place. This arrangement seems to be just enough to create enough back pressure so the midrange is still good. Learned this trick years ago experimenting with a Kawasaki Vulcan Classic. Wide open pipes were a bit too blatty on deceleration, and performance took a hit. Love the sound now - deeper tone and louder than with baffles in, performance is great, and not blatty on deceleration. V&H should not be allowed to call these removable...
Got a set of used BR today and my plan was to simply remove the stock baffles put in some BCT QQ baffles, cut off the originals and stack them in behind the BCTs. The best laid plans!!!
Thats the exact setup I'm running on my evo. Sounds and performs much better than the way the B.R's come from Vance & Hines .
I froze my exhaust. Like you guys, the front one came out easy, the rear would not budge. So, I stuck it in the freezer for about an hour. Pulled it out and used a hair dryer on the pipe, the pipe warmed up, the baffle stayed frozen and after a couple taps on the ground, out it came, easy as can be. So if anyone reading this is also having trouble with the baffles, just freeze the pipe and warm it back up. Same technique many use to install bearings and bushing without have a tool to press them in.
Got a set of used BR today and my plan was to simply remove the stock baffles put in some BCT QQ baffles, cut off the originals and stack them in behind the BCTs. The best laid plans!!! The first pipe went good took the chrome tip off, removed baffle and proceeded with the plan. The second pipe was a little more work. The screw holding the baffle was gone and it looked like the baffle had been pounded into the pipe. Nothing to grab onto to pull it out. I made a slide hammer by useing a piece off 3/4in. ready rod. I sandwiched three heavy washers between two nuts on the rod. The washers just fit in the baffle but would not go beyond the flat weldnut inside the baffle. I used a 4in. makita grinder to notch the washers just enough to pass over the weldnut and into the baffle. Once beyond the weldnut I would turn the washers to move the notch away from the weldnut and proceeded to slide hammer the baffle out took about twenty minutes and the washers had to be switched a couple off times due to rounding off of the edge. Let me tell you this baby was tight. Once I got it out I cleaned it up a little with a grinder and cut it off and stacked it in against the newley installed BCT QQ . Will install pipes next week. Hope the sound is good. Currently running Rush 1.75 slipons. Kind of proud of what can be done in an old farm shop with whats laying around.LOL Mike
same here the first top baffle fell out the forward was a mother fu(ker it took exactly what you did to get it out. I had a guy tell me to get a coathanger and a post in the ground and pull it out with the bike!. didnt use that advice lol
I had the same situation, the one fell out the other was a bear at first.
Used an old electricians trick, had my buddy tap on it with a rubber mallet while I pulled and it popped out rather easily.
Just back from the maiden voyage with her new baffles and it definitely made a difference. The high tones that I did not care for are gone. She has better response in the mid-range, and the decel popping is better than it was, even though it was not bad before.
So count me as one very happy BCT QQ1845 baffle customer.
Hi guys
I have the 2 into 2 big radius V and H pipes (black) on my Fat Bob and my top baffle has fallen out somewhere on my Sunday ride.
I have ordered a new Baffle and just need to know how to install it.
Bit of a dummy with this stuff so a reasonably detailed "installing baffles for dummys" type description would be great
cheers
Mac
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