s&s super e
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,447
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From: Danville Va, Providence NC
I have a bone stock 1999 883 and it runs great with a Super E. Not sure what cubic inch the 883 is, but I am very happy with the way it runs.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,562
Likes: 11
From: Palm Harbor fl.
by the way, dyno results show a mikuni or S&S to only give about 1-2 extra HP over the CV. IMHO 300-400 bucks ain't worth 1-2hp. The mikuni is a little better on throttle response than the cv, yet the same additional throttle response can be found with a Boyesen x-wing, at 1/3 the cost.
Tourer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 316
Likes: 2
I agree. I raced moto cross for a number of years
so I got pretty good at tuning carbs, plus working at the dealer helped a ton too.
I think for the most part once you get the cv tuned to where you like it, it's bullet proof. The only reason I have the Mikuni is because it was a t/o on a bike that came in.
so I got pretty good at tuning carbs, plus working at the dealer helped a ton too.
I think for the most part once you get the cv tuned to where you like it, it's bullet proof. The only reason I have the Mikuni is because it was a t/o on a bike that came in.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,352
Likes: 4
From: Augusta, GA
stage 1. I never tuned the bike when it was stock. People drill the slide cause it supposedly allows for quicker throttle response, IMHO It is unnoticable and really causes way more problems than it is worth. I have owned 3 slides for my carb, I drilled my original for the dynojet, next one I drilled a little smaller hole and smooth the bottom edge and polished it. The one in there now is completely stock. The stock one behaves the best. It provides the best fuel mileage, least amount of vibration, and seems no different in response from the other slide mods I did.
There is also another area of flat out bad advice out there in addition to drilling the slide, it is using the stock needle and shimming it with #4 washers. This is not a good idea....The needle rests in the slide and the spring guide has a recess to fit over the top of the needle and rest on the floor of the slide. Shim the needle and the spring guide is now floating above the bottom of the slide. This causes the spring to be preloaded more, and I also believe that because the spring guide is floating above the floor, the spring will bend as opposed to just move up and down. If you compress the slide spring, the first thing it wants to do is bend before it compresses as it is such a light spring. So, you accellerate, the slide moves up and bends a little this way or that and what happens... the slide moves too slowly, inconsistently, or maybe just too fast. Anyways, I have tried the shimming of a stock needle and it just works way worse than getting a new needle that fits correctly. Of course some did this cheap mod and feel it is fine, I did not and can confirm that it is not nearly as good as using the 88 sporty needle, the dynojet needle, the NOKK needle, or any other needle designed for the carb. Anyways, this is my experience with working with my CV carb, others may feel differently.
There is also another area of flat out bad advice out there in addition to drilling the slide, it is using the stock needle and shimming it with #4 washers. This is not a good idea....The needle rests in the slide and the spring guide has a recess to fit over the top of the needle and rest on the floor of the slide. Shim the needle and the spring guide is now floating above the bottom of the slide. This causes the spring to be preloaded more, and I also believe that because the spring guide is floating above the floor, the spring will bend as opposed to just move up and down. If you compress the slide spring, the first thing it wants to do is bend before it compresses as it is such a light spring. So, you accellerate, the slide moves up and bends a little this way or that and what happens... the slide moves too slowly, inconsistently, or maybe just too fast. Anyways, I have tried the shimming of a stock needle and it just works way worse than getting a new needle that fits correctly. Of course some did this cheap mod and feel it is fine, I did not and can confirm that it is not nearly as good as using the 88 sporty needle, the dynojet needle, the NOKK needle, or any other needle designed for the carb. Anyways, this is my experience with working with my CV carb, others may feel differently.
I agree though the CV is a good to great carb and unless you just have $4-500 burning a hole in your pocket, an S&S is a waste of money.
As to the OPs original question:
byg twyn 55 s&s super e
i have a 98 wideglide stock with the cv carb, i have never been able to get the cv to perform right. it smoked like a bus but ran good and good mpg. messed with the jets, starts hard doesnt smoke as bad but lost some mpg, thought about a s&s super e, any ideas?
i have a 98 wideglide stock with the cv carb, i have never been able to get the cv to perform right. it smoked like a bus but ran good and good mpg. messed with the jets, starts hard doesnt smoke as bad but lost some mpg, thought about a s&s super e, any ideas?
When you say you messed with the jets; did you change the original jets and, if so, what jets did you install (#s please)? Did you change all three jets or just the main or, just the idle, or....?
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adjustment, carburetor, change, dynojet, fuel, gas, instructions, jets, manual, mileage, rebuild, sale, shorty, ss, super
