Forward controls on 2009 FXDC
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Stage I
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: South Texas
Forward controls on 2009 FXDC
I am wanting to put forward controls on my 2009 Dyna custom but am wondering about the shift hole on the inner primary cover. I read somewhere else that you could leave it alone if you can stand the look. If I remove the inner primary what does that entail. thanks for your help in advanced. Bosshog
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 133
Likes: 1
From: Everywhere
This is what I did.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...d-control.html
Originally Posted by Ws6 formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...d-control.html
Originally Posted by Ws6 formula
You don't have to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit instructions requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.
I installed the 2005 kit (P/N 49080-03A)with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rod (P/N 33815-06)that comes with the stronger heim joints (they won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the cadmium plated shift rod in the kit and the original that came with the bike.
Removing the original shift shaft lever
Get a hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench on one end to get a better grip (on the end of the blade so as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cut about a quarter inch from the lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.
Cover for the original shift shaft lever hole
I used a chrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put a two inch piece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: Paint a unplated carriage bolt. Aluminum cover: Scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.
Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-glide-models/220845-did-the-oem-forward-controls-last-week.html
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod will sit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.
Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/g...bmLocale=en_US
Shift linkage part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/brows...bmLocale=en_US
Check prices here:
http://www.chicagoharley.com/shop/
https://www.zanottimotor.com/shopping/partLookUp.html
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/276...1020x63bz2.jpg
Larger image here:
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/437...2008059kp3.jpg
Tourer
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 316
Likes: 2
there's a lot of questions about this.
I prefer to not do it the way posted.
But that's just me.
I like the idea of everthing being there to install and not having to chase parts.
I can log into H-Dnet and check the parts locator for anything I may need though.
I prefer to not do it the way posted.
But that's just me.
I like the idea of everthing being there to install and not having to chase parts.
I can log into H-Dnet and check the parts locator for anything I may need though.
Stage II
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Las Vgas NV
Just finished my forward control job an hour ago, exactly the way Rangerdan described. The worst part was hacksawing the original shaft drive, what a pain in the ****! But worth it. Thanks Rangerdan!
Romeo
Romeo
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 839
Likes: 1
From: USA
I went with the vtwin forwards with floor boards. They look nice and very comfortable. The old shaft is pinned and covered. This is nice if you ever want to switch back.
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Club Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,095
Likes: 4
From: Ponchatoula Louisiana
When my bike was in the shop for some unrelated work, I had them install forwards. The cap on the primary is barely noticeable! I thought about going with a FXDWG primary cover to eliminate the cap, but absolutely not necessary. Especially at $269.00! Do it right and you will think this is the best mod besides exhaust hands down! Good luck. Even though I do a lot of my own wrenching, sawing the shaft just didn't sound like a method I would be comfortable with. Plus, if you can afford to let the dealer do it, you will have some guarantee on the work.
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