I am very familiar with sportsters but I have never worked on a dyna until tomorrow. I am installing forward controls on my friends dyna tomorrow. The stealer said that the forward control instal on dynas is much more difficult than on a sporty. Is this true or is this the dealer trying to get his $$? It looks straight forward ad similar to when I switched to forwards on my nightster. I do all my own work on my nightster so the dyna forward control instal should not create any problems.

Thanks.

 

Mine had the forwards on it when I got it. Love em. Here's a write up on how it's done if you are interested. Has some pics with it. Maybe that will help you out.

https://www.hdforums.com/m_1636075/tm.htm

 

Above link is for removing the inner and outer primary which is unnecessary for installing forward controls.


[quote]ORIGINAL: WS6 Formula

You don'thave to remove the primary on the 2006 and up Dyna's
The 2006 and up kit requires you to remove the primary to install a longer rear transmission shift lever and to remove the original shifter shaft that goes through the primary cover. Both can be done without removing the primary.

Iinstalledthe cheaper 2005 kit with a longer 2006 custom polished stainless steel shift rodthat comes withthe stronger heim joints (They won't break like the original joints). You have to use a longer shift rod with the 2005 kit other wise the front shift lever will hit the primary when you up shift. The custom shift rods are a lot nicer then the original, and the kit included cadmium plated shift rods.

Removing the original shift shaft lever
Geta hacksaw blade and tape each end with duct tape, leaving about two inches exposed in the middle. Also put some duct tape on the primary and cylinder cooling fins. Tape a wrench onone end to get a better grip (on the end of the bladeso as you pull on the wrench you will be on the cutting stroke of the blade). Slip the blade between the primary and engine from the bottom of the bike with the wrench end on the bottom. Position the shaft so you can cutabout a quarter inch fromthe lever (not in the welded area). Use your other hand to guide the top of the blade as you cut. After cutting through, the shaft will slide right out, and the lever will just fall to the floor.

Coverforthe original shift shaft lever hole
I used achrome carriage bolt http://www.chromebolt.com/51618-x-134-chrome-carriage-bolt-p-845.html, and put atwo inchpiece of rubber hose on the threads then added some shrink sleeving on the hose to get a nice snug press fit into the empty shaft hole. If you have a black primary: paint a unplated carriage bolt.Aluminum cover: scotch brite a chrome carriage bolt.

Installing the new rear trans shift lever
https://www.hdforums.com/m_3212510/tm.htm
(Don't do it, leave in the original) Using the original rear transmission shift arm has two benefits, appearance and performance. The shift rod willsit at a more level position, and you will also have a shorter shift throw.

Forward control part numbers here:
http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=84552444229229 3&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302288287&A SSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374302288287&bmUID=1 180998448594&bmLocale=en_US

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