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I had this problem on my '96 BadBoy, turned out to be a dead cell in the
battery. Took it to a dealer after I changed everything like you did and the
first thing the Service Manager asked was, "have you checked the battery?"
He said, "if it feels hot, it probably is bad." He was right.
I bought my 2006 wide glide used about a month ago. When I first experienced the problem the bike began to basically studder and buck at. It usually happened at 60 plus MPH. I went to the dealer and bought new plugs, wires and positive and negative cables. Replaced everything....all was great. I took the bike out and put !out 200 miles on it. Yesterday, halfway into my 3 hour trip, it started again, and left me dead on the highway!!! This time though when I reached down and pushed on the battery it would go back to normal for a few minutes. The bike had 16" apes installed by the previous owner, along with a PC3 and slipons. I have since added VandH and remapped the PC. When we got the back to the garage I saw that the positive cable had arced the screw into the battery. Any ideas???? Could this be signs of the 2006 dyna stator issue, or do have another issue. Any suggestions or ideas...I was hoping to start cheap and work my way up, but I don't know where to start with this. I also wanted to add, that during the first 100 miles everything was great. I stopped for fuel and shut the bike off, and when I was pulling out it started missing and ultimately left me, unable to even start.
I would say that your cable came loose causing a bad connection, which would cause the battery cable terminal to battery terminal connection to start arcing, I've seen one melt the battery terminal then loose contact. Simple preventive fix is to use Loctite.
Another possibility is the bolt behind the battery that secures the battery box is backing out, pushing the battery into the battery cover and shorting out the positive terminal. There was a recall on this and the fix was to replace the bolt with a patch lock bolt (Loctite is just as good)
I was just left by the side of the road yesterday. The bike just sputtered and quit. After a few minutes it would re-start run rough and die. It turned out to be water in the PC connector. No battery issues like you though.
Sounds to me like you have two problems the before repair and after repair. The melted Positive cable terminal is most likely due to it coming loose, it does not have to arc on the cover, all it has to do is make an intermittent connection and it acts like an arc welder on the bolt.
As far as your first problem, you might want to check the wires to the the fuel injectors, these tend to be stretched and break causing an intermittent open that can cause the symptoms you first mentioned.
CB
Thanks again folks....I am positive the battery cables, as well as the, the battery tray are/were tight. When I get home Monday, I will go through everything suggested, check the battery and go from there. I do have one question on the PC. If it dead get water in it, I can assume that I will need another one right?
Thanks again folks....I am positive the battery cables, as well as the, the battery tray are/were tight. When I get home Monday, I will go through everything suggested, check the battery and go from there. I do have one question on the PC. If it dead get water in it, I can assume that I will need another one right?
I don't think you need to assume that. The place where you will possibly get water is where the ECM cable connects to the PC connector, where those two connectors mate can be infiltrated with water. Just clean it out and use a little dielectric grease, and tape it up so it can't happen again.
I have mine mounted under the electrical panel under the seat and have never had a water problem, if it is outside the under seat area as some have mounted it I can see it being more susceptible.
Thanks again folks....I am positive the battery cables, as well as the, the battery tray are/were tight. When I get home Monday, I will go through everything suggested, check the battery and go from there. I do have one question on the PC. If it dead get water in it, I can assume that I will need another one right?
The bolt may have been tight, but was the terminal tight? Did the bolt bottom out and then as someone else said it may have loosened up. I would like someone to show me where a Positive battery cable welded its self to the bolt that was not related to a loose connection and there was not a major battery melt down and/or main harness failure.
There should also be a red rubber cap over the Positive cable connection, do you have that? Not only does it protect it from arcing to the cover and such, but helps keep an inadvertent loose connection from arcing by retaining the terminal, keeping it from moving and arcing.
CB
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