Shock Bolt sheared again !
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Davie, FL
This guy came in from Arizona (RG was kind of stock at first). It had Arnott air shocks on it as he rode from Sturgis to Fort Lauderdale. While going to Sturgis he had a shock failure and the people at Arnott replaces his system.
By the time he got to Florida he wished to fish wrap the Arnott and got some Penske's. When doing this nice little 10 min. job I found one of the SS button head top shock bolts was put on with an air took and cross threaded. Ever try to drill out SS on a top bolt?
By the time he got to Florida he wished to fish wrap the Arnott and got some Penske's. When doing this nice little 10 min. job I found one of the SS button head top shock bolts was put on with an air took and cross threaded. Ever try to drill out SS on a top bolt?
Last edited by FastHarley; Jul 6, 2010 at 07:23 AM.
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From: Connecticut / Amsterdam
This guy came in from Arizona (RG was kind of stock at first). It had Arnott air shocks on it as he rode from Sturgis to Fort Lauderdale. While going to Sturgis he had a shock failure and the people at Arnott replaces his system.
By the time he got to Florida he wished to fish wrap the Arnott and got some Penske's. When doing this nice little 10 min. job I found one of the SS button head top shock bolts was put on with an air took and cross threaded. Ever try to drill out SS on a top bolt?
2 days later and 5 different sized carbide bits (sharpened once after one full day) we (I) drilled it out. There was no way to easy-out the bolt so I drilled & taped it out for a 5/8" X 11 thread and inserted a Jergens Key lock which has a ID of 1/2" X 13. You can remove them by pulling the pins as your bolts will break again, just as the sun will rise tomorrow.
By the time he got to Florida he wished to fish wrap the Arnott and got some Penske's. When doing this nice little 10 min. job I found one of the SS button head top shock bolts was put on with an air took and cross threaded. Ever try to drill out SS on a top bolt?
2 days later and 5 different sized carbide bits (sharpened once after one full day) we (I) drilled it out. There was no way to easy-out the bolt so I drilled & taped it out for a 5/8" X 11 thread and inserted a Jergens Key lock which has a ID of 1/2" X 13. You can remove them by pulling the pins as your bolts will break again, just as the sun will rise tomorrow.
Thanks for your imput maybe i will do what you did , but i'm going to go back to my stock shocks anyway....
Last edited by Wonkaboy; Jun 28, 2010 at 10:22 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Palm Harbor fl.
Me and my buddy tried everything from drilling to torching to get the rest of the bolt out but it would not budge he finally had to use a bigger drill and of coarse it came out , i guess it nut and bolt time because the threads are ruined he says heil coil will be no good because of the shock hole size .... were going to go with a longer bolt so a nut can be screwed on and also some kind of metal shim for the hole so the bolt is nice and snug , i can't wait to see what happens to the other side because i still want to put grade 8 too If this happens one more time i'm going back to the stock shocks , Any suggestions or condolences are welcome . Also this is a message for RUSS who send me a private message about your hardware , i need to talk to you again but i deleted your message please send another message to my email because I WANT YOUR HARDWARE just in case it happens again ..... Thanks !
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From: Connecticut / Amsterdam
I don't see the difference between a stud and a bolt what's the difference ?
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From: Connecticut / Amsterdam
No the were old country roads with a lot of bumps and dips but no pot holes , i'm going back to my stock set up anyway 2 times is enough for me !!
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Bolt shear
Getting a shock absorber that actually absorbs shock is the best solution at this point.
A stud would be preferred and stronger if the design of the application was correct. A flanged stud, that had full section at the shear point (the outermost edge of the frame) would have greater strength (thicker section) and would resist lateral movement better than a full thread bolt. There was a similar problem with pulley bolts shearing in another thread.
Bolt threads are rolled into the bolt. This causes distortion of the metal in the threaded portion of the bolt. Subsequent heat treating helps some.
The design is also contributory. The factory system used puts the bolt in single shear, only one shear point. Better would be to use double shear. That would mean having a part of the frame on either side of the shock eye, effectively a U into which the eye fits with the bolt passing through both sides and the eye bushing. Same for the swingarm. Anyone familiar with the old Triumphs knows that this works well, as there was never an issue with the smaller 3/8" bolts used for these bikes shearing, even when they were used and abused in the desert and in dirt track racing. The upper shock eye fit into a socket which captured the shock, so even if the bolt was removed, the shock would stay in place. This would require some simple fabrication and welding, but would be the definitive fix.
A stud would be preferred and stronger if the design of the application was correct. A flanged stud, that had full section at the shear point (the outermost edge of the frame) would have greater strength (thicker section) and would resist lateral movement better than a full thread bolt. There was a similar problem with pulley bolts shearing in another thread.
Bolt threads are rolled into the bolt. This causes distortion of the metal in the threaded portion of the bolt. Subsequent heat treating helps some.
The design is also contributory. The factory system used puts the bolt in single shear, only one shear point. Better would be to use double shear. That would mean having a part of the frame on either side of the shock eye, effectively a U into which the eye fits with the bolt passing through both sides and the eye bushing. Same for the swingarm. Anyone familiar with the old Triumphs knows that this works well, as there was never an issue with the smaller 3/8" bolts used for these bikes shearing, even when they were used and abused in the desert and in dirt track racing. The upper shock eye fit into a socket which captured the shock, so even if the bolt was removed, the shock would stay in place. This would require some simple fabrication and welding, but would be the definitive fix.
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From: Palm Harbor fl.
The stud is stronger than the bolt in system you have now. It won't break. Harley returned to using a stud for a reason...the reason...people were snapping the bolts in the 06 models! Below is the stud. Now stop the insanity and fix the problem correctly. The studs are 8 bucks at H-D, also get the bolt for the strut and the acorn bolt for the shock and the washers too.
Last edited by rounder; Jun 29, 2010 at 09:20 AM.
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From: Connecticut / Amsterdam
The stud is stronger than the bolt in system you have now. It won't break. Harley returned to using a stud for a reason...the reason...people were snapping the bolts in the 06 models! Below is the stud. Now stop the insanity and fix the problem correctly. The studs are 8 bucks at H-D, also get the bolt for the strut and the acorn bolt for the shock and the washers too.
Insanity is right !!!!
Last edited by Wonkaboy; Jun 29, 2010 at 09:57 AM.