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What locktite to use on the rear sprocket bolts?

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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 05:05 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Streetbobster
Red is for permanent and does not seal the threads from contamination and it is possible to damage the threads as someone else noted. Torching the sprocket bolts will most likely burn off the paint on your sprocket or discolor a chrome one and to get down to the thread locker would require quite a bit of heat, geez.

Blue locks the threads and also seals them to keep out moisture etc. keeping the bolts from corroding. My '07 H-D Manual says 55 to 65 ft lb torque. I would not use an aftermarket chrome bolt set for the rear sprocket. I personally would not use chromed bolts, use new OEM and get chrome caps if chrome is a necessity.
CB
I am using the chrome bolt kit that is specifically for the rear sprocket rite from Harley Davidson (grade 8). Man the dilemma continues, still cant figure out what to use, blue or red! Seems like the responses are split so far. My buddy sais blue also! I'm torn between the possibility of screwin up the threads on the hub the next time they take it off for a tire change and the possibility, after reading some threads here, of the bolts coming out! And the bolt torque, some people say 23 ft lbs + turn to 60 degrees is basically finger tight and should be to 55-65 ft lbs. Arggh!! I am pretty much mechanically inclined and trust myself over the dealership but the call i make on this could potentially kill me if **** ****s up!
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 06:44 PM
  #12  
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Well... since the service manual does not say to use any threadlocker.... go with blue.

Also, you do not need to remove the pulley or the disc brake, to do a tire change.... (why I recommended red)

Why do you think every other paragraph in the owners manual has the standard "could result in injury or death".... statement included...
 
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 11:06 PM
  #13  
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most of the factory bolts for pulleys and rotors that I've dealt with all have/had a factory applied sealant on them, thats why I think at least they recommend using new hardware any time you remove them. Personally I trust the integrity of the hardware to reuse them, and I do so using blue loctite. tens of thousands of miles on original hardware blue loctited on the wheels and pulley with no issues. And I'll be doing it again once my bike goes back together in the next few days after powdercoating. As far as torque specs, I'm no help. I usually use my 3/8 impact and go till it makes a dat-dat-dat sound..probably about 75-80 ft lbs lol.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 12:08 AM
  #14  
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I used new chromed grade eight bolts, re-tapped the hub threads, cleaned all of the threads with electrical contact cleaner, applied red loc-tite , torqued to 60 ft lbs, and no problems since.

Some info from other threads below, click on the blue arrow to see the whole thread.

Originally Posted by misterkidgo
Ladies and gents,

So, a couple of weeks ago, i was riding out a short 100 miles to College Station when at the 90th mile, there was a jarring noise and sensation like a big rock had found it's ways into my spokes. Immediately, there was no power to the rear wheel despite revving.

Luckily, the rear wheel did not lock up, i was with a friend and I had the resources to tow it back! (Thank you, Lord.)

By the way, I have nothing but fine things to say about the people at the Harley Davidson Dealership in College Station, who helped me out tremendously! It is now my adopted dealership.

Anyway, I've taken on the task of finding parts with a very limited budget (since i stopped working to go back to college- that's life for ya!) and have begun perusing Ebay and HDForums for parts. So check your private ims if you ever had a wheel, or a sprocket for a 2007 fxdc.

If anyone is aware of anyone with the following parts, or a dealership with the biggest sale ever, i am in need of these:

40114-07 OEM Sprocket 66T(black)

40221-07 OEM Sprocket 66T(silver)

40046-07 OEM Secondary Drive belt 131T (might just do Zanotti's for this one)

Rear Laced Wheel 17 x 4.5. Hell, I don't care what wheel it is, I just want my bike back.

Thanks, guys... and make sure you pre-check before every ride, just to avoid freak accidents. (This one will not be warrantied and it seems just a little too common.)







-go.

Originally Posted by WS6 Formula
Are you sure the threads are missing, or is the first half inch a counter bored hole?

I've heard of this happening before and it is usually after someone puts a new pulley or pulley cover on, as well as ones that have it all original.

I wonder if you have an original untouched bike and verify the pulley bolts torque with a torque wrench that you inadvertently move the bolt which would break that Loc-Tite and cause the bolt to eventually back out.

Which ever way you go (new wheel or not), get new grade eight bolts and clean all your threads with electrical contact or brake cleaner, or any other solvent that doesn't leave a residue, use red Loc-Tite and torque the bolts once.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 12:42 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by archergodwin
Red loctite, and the -08 service manuals says 55-65ft/lbs... no intermediate step. Always use new bolts.

So... which HD instruction is correct? If it is torqued according to the service manual, and 'you are asking for trouble'... I would think that it's the MoCo that "is asking for trouble".

Besides.... 23ftlbs +60deg... is not a torque value.... that's "snug plus just over 1/4 turn".

I'm just coming down on the fact there's two different instructions.... not you kk6pg.
yeah what he said
 
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