does chrome have to be stripped to powder?
ok let me pop in here... cause this is what we do... most chrome if done right can just be blasted and coated... now other chrome (seems like all HD chrome) when you blast it just peels off, and yes then this has to be removed, chemcial is the best as it take forever to blast chrome and then you run into where oyu need to strain and clean your media for future use after you do if you just blast it... now on some parts if the chrome is good in some areas and crap in others, you can also get away with a primer first then top coat... did it just last night on some of my parts. depends on the coater to be honest. most do not want to mess with crap chrome cause it will slow down production. others just shoot it and send out crap, then the rest of us do it right and make sure the metal is prepped and the base is solid for a top coat
you should also never bead blast metal prior to powder... it is a horrible surface to coat to and will leave smooth divits rather than a good abrasion surface to coat, in turn the powder will not be near as durrable.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 184
Likes: 0
From: Southeastern NC
ok. so my question to you is this cause it's obvious you are a professional and do this for a living. i have a 2010 wide glide so the chrome is pretty new. granted that harley chrome is crap since it is this new should i just powder it, bake it then powder it again? Thanks
an outgass cycle really has nothing to do with the chrome... chrome will not outgass as the metal has already seen extreme temps with the chroming... it is all in the blasting bud, i have had packages sent to me brand new and had the chrome just flake off, then done 25 year old FLH parts that the chrome was very very well done, it is a crap shoot
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,007
Likes: 126
From: Manassas, VA
I media blast chrome that's in good condition to a frosted glass look to give it some tooth. Use lower pressure and stay off of it 12-15 inches. Don't get past the chrome layer into the nickel. If you reach the copper, I've used 320 or higher grit to feather out the edges where the copper is showing through. If the edge is peeling, keep sanding. After cutting off my jiffy-stand mount, I used the feather method 4 years ago on my foot control mounts and the gloss black powder is staying solid. I understand that it could start peeling, but the gamble has paid off so far.
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