What's best floor jack for Dynas?
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 404
Likes: 2
From: SoCal, USA
I have this one:
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...lift-2792.html
It works, but it's a bit of a PITA to get it squarely under the bike - it's not quite low enough.
I like that oil catcher on the J&S unit.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...lift-2792.html
It works, but it's a bit of a PITA to get it squarely under the bike - it's not quite low enough.
I like that oil catcher on the J&S unit.
Club Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: NoVa
+1 on the J&S. Solid as a rock. I like it because I can just lean the sucker up against the wall to get it out of the way when I'm not using it. I don't think I've seen anyone complain about the J&S at all.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 886
Likes: 6
x whatever... on the J&S. I have the oil catcher too and what a help that is. I have never had to strap it down. Just rolls under, lifts, puts it back down. Rolls easy loaded with the bike too. Here's their link: http://www.jsjacks.com/
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 683
Likes: 3
From: Florida
The J&S is a very good Jack for a much higher price if you have the money.
To me if I go that high I would want to go ahead and buy a table lift.
The yellow steel Harbor Freight Jack is similar to the Sears steel jack but sells for $79 on sale, $90 regular.
You have to buy longer bolts and move the pads to the outside of the braces to clear the Dyna oil pan. Took me about 20mins or less to do the mod.
Some of the aluminum jacks are flimsy, I would get the steel ones.
Whatever you do, first measure the distance to clear your oil pan where it protrudes down past the frame. Then take a tape with you and whatever jack you look at, make sure the two braces have the required distance between them OR can be modified so as to have that distance.
Otherwise you will have to block up where the braces meet the frame which adds more problems to the equation.
To me if I go that high I would want to go ahead and buy a table lift.
The yellow steel Harbor Freight Jack is similar to the Sears steel jack but sells for $79 on sale, $90 regular.
You have to buy longer bolts and move the pads to the outside of the braces to clear the Dyna oil pan. Took me about 20mins or less to do the mod.
Some of the aluminum jacks are flimsy, I would get the steel ones.
Whatever you do, first measure the distance to clear your oil pan where it protrudes down past the frame. Then take a tape with you and whatever jack you look at, make sure the two braces have the required distance between them OR can be modified so as to have that distance.
Otherwise you will have to block up where the braces meet the frame which adds more problems to the equation.
Former Sponsor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 19,364
Likes: 40
From: Los Angeles, CA
I used to have the yellow harbor freight before I got the hi position harbor freight. These are two different animals. Never had a problem with the yellow one, but the new one is much nicer. I also have a softail, not a Dyna so that low hanging oil pan was not an issue for me. It all comes down to what you want to spend. If I had a place to keep a table lift at home I would have one, but my carport is not conducive to a table lift.
Drew
Drew
Drew
Drew
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 9
From: Marina del Rey
1st, you don't need a jack at all to do oil changes, though it makes it easier to r&r the primary derby cover. Search the existing threads here. I picked up a Craftsman MC jack for ~ $60 on c/l.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 862
Likes: 3
From: East Tennessee
Search www for J & S jack & watch the video. Outstanding product and good folks to deal with. Had mine a couple of months & hard to imagine a better jack. No retaining straps and very sturdy. Kinda expensive but don't your Davidson deserve the best?
Last edited by CHOPPIN' CHARLIE; Feb 15, 2011 at 10:27 AM.
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