PROJECT: Black Glide!
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 426
Likes: 2
From: Annapolis, MD
Looking pretty darn good so far i'd say. Question though: If you knew what you know now, would you have still started the project?
you've cemented my decision to send my newly chopped rear to an auto painter. For me, paying him the $100 to do a respectable job is worth the down time and headache i am giving up if i were to do it myself. I can't afford to miss any more warm days
you've cemented my decision to send my newly chopped rear to an auto painter. For me, paying him the $100 to do a respectable job is worth the down time and headache i am giving up if i were to do it myself. I can't afford to miss any more warm days
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Jville NC
Looking pretty darn good so far i'd say. Question though: If you knew what you know now, would you have still started the project?
you've cemented my decision to send my newly chopped rear to an auto painter. For me, paying him the $100 to do a respectable job is worth the down time and headache i am giving up if i were to do it myself. I can't afford to miss any more warm days
you've cemented my decision to send my newly chopped rear to an auto painter. For me, paying him the $100 to do a respectable job is worth the down time and headache i am giving up if i were to do it myself. I can't afford to miss any more warm days
Last edited by 06SuperDuty; Mar 1, 2011 at 11:40 AM. Reason: I'm lexdiskic
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,562
Likes: 11
From: Palm Harbor fl.
I think you'll be amazed at how it can turn out. I know I was and the krylon without clear is very close to the shade of current Harley denim. Use my advice on a paper towel when fueling to avoid gas spilling on the paint and you'll be good to go. For the paint gun... Get some old scrap metal to work with to learn how to set up the gun, mix the paint, and how to apply the paint evenly. maybe even just paint some metal pipe from the hardware store to paint up.
Last edited by rounder; Mar 1, 2011 at 04:39 PM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,562
Likes: 11
From: Palm Harbor fl.
yes my bike is Krylon flat, no clear. 400 grit final sand before shooting. I also did the struts, belt cover, battery box and electrical box. On the fairing I used adhesion promotor then the Krylon because it is plastic. I did 3 coats on all parts. 2 min between coats. 1 coat consist of applying to an even wet gloss(basically 2-3 passes). Can held about 6-8 inches from the surface.
Last edited by rounder; Mar 2, 2011 at 02:23 PM.
I love how rounders bike came out!!!
another option is to use a flat clear... here is a bike i shot with rattle can
used primer, low gloss black, and matte clear
rustoleum painters touch
blocked out and primed
semi gloss
after clear and on the bike
it is a great paint to work with... and if you catch it fast enough holds up pretty well to gas spills and what not... i have used it several times... here are a few others i have painted in it
my snowmobile hood
customer tank that i color matched powder
i like to lay a clear on all i do cause it is just a bit more protection and lets you have some room if you need to buff on it to get somethign off
*i do have a step by step pics of the hood from when i painted it
another option is to use a flat clear... here is a bike i shot with rattle can
used primer, low gloss black, and matte clear
rustoleum painters touch
blocked out and primed
semi gloss
after clear and on the bike
it is a great paint to work with... and if you catch it fast enough holds up pretty well to gas spills and what not... i have used it several times... here are a few others i have painted in it
my snowmobile hood
customer tank that i color matched powder
i like to lay a clear on all i do cause it is just a bit more protection and lets you have some room if you need to buff on it to get somethign off
*i do have a step by step pics of the hood from when i painted it
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Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
First off your a braver man than most of the dudes on this forum for attempting to paint your bike yourself, most guys **** a brick when the have to take off the seat lol. I've been where ya been before but you just need a few more tips.
1. On the stripes you are going to have to remove a lot material for them to disappear, instead of focusing on just the raised area you need to sand farther out until all of the edges are feathered COMPLETELY smooth. When your finished with this don't be surprised if you have sanded to the bare metal in several places.
2. I would suggest using a larger grit sand paper and maybe even a DA sander. Even though it seems like you might be getting out of some sanding by using finer paper, in the long run its a lot less work to start with something coarse (80 grit) and work your way to finer grits. I'm not trying to bust your *****, but you still have a **** ton of sanding to do, if they still look anything like the do in the pictures.
3. In the picture of you spreading body filler on the dent, You need to spread, and feather it way past the actual damaged area, because they always need more than you originally think, also when you spread the filler farther away from the damaged area, I believe it is easier to fix the dent because your working with the contour of the tanks if you can understand what Im trying to explain.
4. After you get ALL of the striping off and you think theres NO WAY IN HELL that you can get it any smoother... smooth = without dents, waves, and without high and low spots.... you need to use a 2K filler primer (primer with a hardener). I would lay a couple heavy "wet coats down before I even started to block sand.
5. On the first round of block sanding, if the tins look relatively smooth you might could start with 320, but 180 is prolly a little more like it, just dont get carried away because primer will cut down alot easier than the clear coat. I usually prime and block everything several times, just remember your paint can only be as slick as whats underneath it, and the more times that you block sanded the slicker the final paint job will be. You can/should spray a VERY Light coat of black/dark spray paint to use as a guide. This way you'll know where you have sanded, and the low spots will stand out more , this is the difference in a "Damn that looks effing awesome" and a "Its not to bad for your first try". Just make sure that you don't start to slack off because your almost to the fun part.
6. After you have primed & blocked the tins several times, swap from 320 dry to 600 wet. I never sand finer than 600 on the prep work, if its to slick..... (Slick= smooth and soft as a lotioned baby's ***)... the paint wont have anything to cling to and your just asking for that **** to flake.
7. After your finished wet sanding, your ready for the easy part.... Don't be intimidated by people say that flat is hard to spray, because it isnt. It is important that you are using the right reducer and hardener, A slower reducer will help keep the paint from streaking, but if your having problems with anything like that on a harley, you should probably just hang the gun up and spray 30 dollars worth of spray paint on it. Some other things that make a huge difference is right before you spray your final coat of color, lightly wet sand, then lay down the money shot.
Maybe this will head you in the right direction, even though that might seem like loads of unnecessary bull ****, at least when your finished it'll be something that your proud of, take your time and the hardest thing of all just be patient.
1. On the stripes you are going to have to remove a lot material for them to disappear, instead of focusing on just the raised area you need to sand farther out until all of the edges are feathered COMPLETELY smooth. When your finished with this don't be surprised if you have sanded to the bare metal in several places.
2. I would suggest using a larger grit sand paper and maybe even a DA sander. Even though it seems like you might be getting out of some sanding by using finer paper, in the long run its a lot less work to start with something coarse (80 grit) and work your way to finer grits. I'm not trying to bust your *****, but you still have a **** ton of sanding to do, if they still look anything like the do in the pictures.
3. In the picture of you spreading body filler on the dent, You need to spread, and feather it way past the actual damaged area, because they always need more than you originally think, also when you spread the filler farther away from the damaged area, I believe it is easier to fix the dent because your working with the contour of the tanks if you can understand what Im trying to explain.
4. After you get ALL of the striping off and you think theres NO WAY IN HELL that you can get it any smoother... smooth = without dents, waves, and without high and low spots.... you need to use a 2K filler primer (primer with a hardener). I would lay a couple heavy "wet coats down before I even started to block sand.
5. On the first round of block sanding, if the tins look relatively smooth you might could start with 320, but 180 is prolly a little more like it, just dont get carried away because primer will cut down alot easier than the clear coat. I usually prime and block everything several times, just remember your paint can only be as slick as whats underneath it, and the more times that you block sanded the slicker the final paint job will be. You can/should spray a VERY Light coat of black/dark spray paint to use as a guide. This way you'll know where you have sanded, and the low spots will stand out more , this is the difference in a "Damn that looks effing awesome" and a "Its not to bad for your first try". Just make sure that you don't start to slack off because your almost to the fun part.
6. After you have primed & blocked the tins several times, swap from 320 dry to 600 wet. I never sand finer than 600 on the prep work, if its to slick..... (Slick= smooth and soft as a lotioned baby's ***)... the paint wont have anything to cling to and your just asking for that **** to flake.
7. After your finished wet sanding, your ready for the easy part.... Don't be intimidated by people say that flat is hard to spray, because it isnt. It is important that you are using the right reducer and hardener, A slower reducer will help keep the paint from streaking, but if your having problems with anything like that on a harley, you should probably just hang the gun up and spray 30 dollars worth of spray paint on it. Some other things that make a huge difference is right before you spray your final coat of color, lightly wet sand, then lay down the money shot.
Maybe this will head you in the right direction, even though that might seem like loads of unnecessary bull ****, at least when your finished it'll be something that your proud of, take your time and the hardest thing of all just be patient.
.