Brake light after bleeding

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May 26, 2011 | 10:28 PM

DeneFXDWG

Thread Starter

Road Warrior

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 1,505

Likes: 56

From: Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Brake light after bleeding

This is hard to describe, but easy to understand if you're standing in front of my bike. I recently changed my handle bars and cables on my '08 wide glide. This is my first time tinkering. Bled the brakes 'til no bubbles. Internal wired bars. Clam shell of the switches are kind of spaced apart when screwed together so a little goofy considering the cheap bars and wires going through the hole. Can't make the rr brake light switch actuate correctly. Works great when pushing it in with my finger. Handle clicks when pulled and light is always on, goes off when handle slightly depressed, then back on like it should when handle is depressed even more. Is this a problem from not bleeding then system more? It would be great if the lever didn't go back all the way so would more pressure in the brake line help this? There were no bubbles and there is lots of resistence / pressure.Thanks again folks.

May 26, 2011 | 11:19 PM

dyna rider

Club Member

Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 4,192

Likes: 168

From: Knoxville, Tn

Brake Light Problem

You have lost No. 6 on this list...

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=512&B=36

May 26, 2011 | 11:20 PM

bigmikaele

Road Master

Joined: Oct 2008

Posts: 886

Likes: 6

I would check the switch. If you removed/installed the grips you need to pull on the brake/shim it when you install it or you can break the switch inside. I would check that first.

May 27, 2011 | 12:09 AM

DeneFXDWG

Thread Starter

Road Warrior

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 1,505

Likes: 56

From: Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyna rider

You have lost No. 6 on this list...

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=512&B=36

Thanks, I will have to figure out this one as I'm sure there wasn't any little "V" shaped deal when I took the whole she-bang apart and installed the bars and grips etc. I forgot to mention that I also changed out the stock switches to chrome ones...Thanks and please keep the info coming my way!

May 27, 2011 | 04:54 AM

Spanners39

Seasoned HDF Member

Joined: Dec 2010

Posts: 7,736

Likes: 1,524

From: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand

It is so easy to lose that tiny piece of copper sheet that you can't really assume it wasn't in there when you took it apart. Its a shocking piece of design...it should really have an adjustable grub screw in the switch block.....that would be soooo easy to adjust!!!

May 27, 2011 | 09:51 AM

DeneFXDWG

Thread Starter

Road Warrior

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 1,505

Likes: 56

From: Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spanners39

Thanks Spanners and other also. The only way it works is that if I insert a folded piece of cardboard behind the lever so it can't retract all the way. Then the light works fine. Does that mean the small piece of copper is missing please?

May 27, 2011 | 02:42 PM

DeneFXDWG

Thread Starter

Road Warrior

Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 1,505

Likes: 56

From: Vancouver Island, British Columbia

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyna rider

You have lost No. 6 on this list...

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....=13&A=512&B=36

Hey Dyna, the #6 part is there and intact, didn't touch it and as far as I can see it retains the little brake button, correct?? Anyway, I'm thinking about there is some little shim missing that stops the lever from going too far out. Right now, with a folded piece of cardboard stuck in the end of the lever everything is happy and the brake light works fine. Now what to do, get a piece of tin or copper and bend it and stick it inside the lever assembly?Thanks