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clutch not releasing

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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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Default clutch not releasing

Can anyone help. On my 2008 street bob, all stock, the clutch does not release without the engine running, I no longer can start the bike if it is in gear but starts easy in neutral. Also can't push the bike in gear with the clutch in. I have adjusted the clutch as per the manual.I am thinking warped clutch plates?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 03:50 PM
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What fluid are you running? In gear with the clutch in there is still fluid friction between the discs. Mine is hard to push in gear with the clutch in and it jerks a little if I start it in gear. Pretty normal.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 07:43 PM
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I am using HD primary oil. It use to be easer to push in gear, then again maybe i'm just getting older. But that doesn't explain the starting problem unless the batt. has the same problem as me.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 09:08 PM
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Got nothing. Hope others chime in!
 
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 09:47 PM
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Have you checked the adjuster nut on the cable?
 
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Old Jul 24, 2011 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by atulyo
Can anyone help. On my 2008 street bob, all stock, the clutch does not release without the engine running, I no longer can start the bike if it is in gear but starts easy in neutral. Also can't push the bike in gear with the clutch in. I have adjusted the clutch as per the manual.I am thinking warped clutch plates?
Originally Posted by Shovelhed
Have you checked the adjuster nut on the cable?
How many mile are on that clutch?

'Adjusting the clutch as per the manual' I'm guessing means you removed the derby cover AND loosened the cable slack adjuster ALL the way. This would be step one... as I'm sure you are aware.
Then you would've been able to loosen the lock nut on the clutch adjustment screw... which is behind the derby cover.



Then you would've been able to make the clutch adjustment as per the manual.

I like to keep the adjustment screw unchanged while 'un-locking' it. It gives me an indication of how 'worn' the clutch might be when I (lightly) rotate the adjusting screw clock-wise untile it stops. If it's no more than 1/2 a rotation then I surmise the clutch friction plates are still ok.
I then back the screw off between 1/4 and 1/2 a rotation before locking it back up.
I also like keeping the off set boxed in wrench on the allen T handle wrench while making the clutch adjustment check.



These are pics of my friends 07 Street Bob which at the time had 55,000 miles on the stock clutch. When I rotated the adjustment screw clock-wise it turned almost, but not quit 3/4's of one full rotation... yea, some ware... but not much. I backed the screw off just a little more than a 1/4 turn & locked it down.
He now has over 61,000 miles on the clutch with no complants.

Oh, by the way... he's had Amsoil 20w50 in the primary case since day one.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 12:27 AM
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08fxd,

Great explanation and pics.

I would add one thing. Different folks feel the adjustment screw "stop" or meet resistance at different points.

To the OP, there are a few things HD has done right for a long time, the clutch is one of them. Very unlikely it needs anything other than an adjustment.

Kevin
 
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