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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
So many factors, so little time. Please consider this... These bikes are great! Big bore kits give the most bang for the buck on the street. If it's not set up right, it'll perform no better than a store bought Briggs and Stratton powered lawn mower. Every component has to be considered carefully and in context with ALL the other components. Heavier bikes will benefit from higher torque and lower RPM high CI motors. As you step down in weight, you can trade up in RPM'S and lower in Torque to get the desired results. That's the general rule. Every single part that's put on or taken off has to be considered carefully. You may have a great engine package, but if you neglect the clutch, you may just be spinning your engine and not your wheels. HD will never produce a bike for the street that truly lives up to it's true potential. Sure, all of us would like to dream that scenario one day. Who could afford the insurance on such a beast? Back in the 80's I knew a dude named Pharaoh that ran a shop called Unauthorized H-D in Phoenix-Mesa AZ. That guy had bikes that would do 175-180MPH! He ran the Iron-Butt one year by himself and smoked everyone. Catch is he wasn't a factory sponsored team. He was solo. That was on a Shovel. I've had XR-750's that were ONLY 95HP, but combined with the fact that it only weighed in at 280 LBS with it's Moly frame and Mag cases with the Barnett dry clutches, I had to lean in to it real hard to keep the front end on the ground. Consider the WHOLE package. Not just one component. Just my two cents...
Just my 2cents mine pulls 115ft/lbs of tq at 2100rpms. Plenty good for me with a Harley. Oh yes if you are not careful the front wheel will pull off the ground on a quick start.
So many factors, so little time. Please consider this... These bikes are great! Big bore kits give the most bang for the buck on the street. If it's not set up right, it'll perform no better than a store bought Briggs and Stratton powered lawn mower. Every component has to be considered carefully and in context with ALL the other components. Heavier bikes will benefit from higher torque and lower RPM high CI motors. As you step down in weight, you can trade up in RPM'S and lower in Torque to get the desired results. That's the general rule. Every single part that's put on or taken off has to be considered carefully. You may have a great engine package, but if you neglect the clutch, you may just be spinning your engine and not your wheels. HD will never produce a bike for the street that truly lives up to it's true potential. Sure, all of us would like to dream that scenario one day. Who could afford the insurance on such a beast? Back in the 80's I knew a dude named Pharaoh that ran a shop called Unauthorized H-D in Phoenix-Mesa AZ. That guy had bikes that would do 175-180MPH! He ran the Iron-Butt one year by himself and smoked everyone. Catch is he wasn't a factory sponsored team. He was solo. That was on a Shovel. I've had XR-750's that were ONLY 95HP, but combined with the fact that it only weighed in at 280 LBS with it's Moly frame and Mag cases with the Barnett dry clutches, I had to lean in to it real hard to keep the front end on the ground. Consider the WHOLE package. Not just one component. Just my two cents...
For a newbie here you bring a lot of experience with you for sure. Some of us have some racing experience, some of us even more, but most people here are just novice pleasure riders looking for other's opinions about what looks best, how low they can go and other things that will make you scratch your head. Actual performance, handling and ergos don't matter if the bike doesn't look like the latest trailer queen.
By the way...Welcome to the site! I like your no nonsense approach to this issue and I appreciate your knowledge. It's nice to have someone else to contribute here that actually has been there and done it. Please continue to contribute to this site!
My one point of contention though is the Briggs and Stratton reference!
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J you are not running the stock SE 103, but i would love to run ya bud! hope some day we can, i am going to a Univ Kentucky game this year with the wife (she was a UK cheerleader) ill let you know when we are coming man would love to hook up for a ride!
ooh ya and the only people that say they would not ride a BMW have never rode them. one of my best friends rides a BMW adventure may not be much to look at but as far as power, handleing, comfort and far out being a great all around bike. he wins... alot to be said for a 8 gallon gas tank!
Deff hit me up when you are in town Joe. Not to far from UK... the bourbon tour is worth doing on the scooter.
My .02, head work and cams will make a big difference but before even doing that make sure he has a proper tuner. I've had 4 Harleys all together and to each I've added Thundermax or Powercommander and it made a huge difference every time. Bikes also ran cooler with tuner. As soon as I get this bike broken in I will start adding aftermarket exhaust and breather and I've already ordered Thundermax. Then somewhere down the road I will probably work the heads and change cams.
The factory is claiming 100 TQ on the 103"s. But they're measuring it at the crank. It's probably putting 80 ft.lbs. at the rear wheel. I just saw a guy from Mean City Cycles dyno a 2011 103" on here a couple of days ago, and stock it was putting 65 HP to the ground. The 110" is only putting about 75 HP to the rear wheel as well. None of them perform very well in stock form. Add a set of cams and possibly some headwork and you're talking. But nothing from the factory impresses me about their engines.
Originally Posted by jeff.georgalas
I know what you're saying about the SCREAMING EAGLE catalog, which lists their numbers at the rear wheel, but the normal "off the shelf" stock stuff is measured at the crank I believe. Screaming Eagle is a seperate division and they market a little differently than normal Harley stuff. I've watched a lot of dyno videos that show actual numbers of stock engines and there's no way the 103" is making 100 TQ at the rear wheel from the factory.
I totallly agree that the performance of the stock Harley power plant leaves much to be desired which is why there is sucha robust performance oriented aftermarket. I don't know if the 103" in the new Switchback makes 100TQ in stock trim or not; havent' seen the dyno data. However I do know that Harley measures stock performance at the rear wheel but they don't publish the data.
Accordingn to factory rear wheel dyno results, a stock 96" makes 68HP/82 TQ, in a Dyna or Softail but makes 71HP/90TQ in an FL model. The difference in the two configurations is the superior exhaust system on the FL models. Considering that a 96 is capable of 90TQ in an FL, isn't it conceivable that the new Switchback 103", with a good exhaust system, could make 100TQ? I guess we will have to wait for some dyno data to know for sure. If it does, it will be fun to ride; Dyna handling and 700 pouinds.
Illinois is a little too far north from south Texas for me to ride up for a six or even a twelve pack. I'll take a rain check; you never know.
I like the Honda Corp. aproach. Make something that is small really fast. When I mod my engine I will bump the compression, do cams and put on some serious heads ect. These damn engines are big enough. I'm sticking with 96" Any yahoo can make an engine bigger and bigger but it takes a planned aproach to make something small make big power. This is one reason we all bought Dynas. Light bikes with the big engines. I havent ran against a 1200 sporty but I but I bet they would smoke a Dyna it they both just had stage 1. I have ridden them and they rip. I mean ****, isn't 1582cc enough? These things have a 1000cc edge on a 600cc sport bike and they are putting 110hp to the tire with a stage 1. I was going down the strait at Willow Springs at 145mph on my Cbr 900 and had a TZ250 blow by me. At that point I learned my lesson that big engines dont mean ****. My 1500cc is a turd now but I plan on having 110hp to the tire pretty soon.
This is one reason we all bought Dynas. Light bikes with the big engines. I havent ran against a 1200 sporty but I but I bet they would smoke a Dyna it they both just had stage 1.
Dyna makes more power but 100 pound heavier; the Sporty will win with gearing. Sporty final drive is 3.5 and Dyna (5th gear) final drive is taller at 3.3. Run a Sporty agaist a Dyna with 3.37 gearing and maybe a different outcome.
I like the Honda Corp. aproach. Make something that is small really fast. When I mod my engine I will bump the compression, do cams and put on some serious heads ect. These damn engines are big enough. I'm sticking with 96" Any yahoo can make an engine bigger and bigger but it takes a planned aproach to make something small make big power. This is one reason we all bought Dynas. Light bikes with the big engines. I havent ran against a 1200 sporty but I but I bet they would smoke a Dyna it they both just had stage 1. I have ridden them and they rip. I mean ****, isn't 1582cc enough? These things have a 1000cc edge on a 600cc sport bike and they are putting 110hp to the tire with a stage 1. I was going down the strait at Willow Springs at 145mph on my Cbr 900 and had a TZ250 blow by me. At that point I learned my lesson that big engines dont mean ****. My 1500cc is a turd now but I plan on having 110hp to the tire pretty soon.
A bigger engine makes all the difference in the world on an 800+ lb. bagger....
The size and weight of my bike would be a real dog with a stock 80 cube EVO motor.
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