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So, I've recently installed a stage one on my 2011 FXDF. Now, I'm in the market for a cam upgrade. There are a lot of different options out there. Thought it would be interesting to gather everyones ideas in one thread. What cams are you using? Pros and cons?
If you're not pullin the heads for a compression bump it's better to get one with an early intake close so it doesn't bleed off too much compression. If you plan on doing work later like big bore or porting then it's a different story. T Man has a TR-600SM that just came out and it's a drop in with a 39* Intake close with .600 lift. When I go back in my bike that's the one I'm gettin. The Wood TW5-6 and Cycle Rama 575 are also good Dyna cams. My 37's work well but I advanced them and added some lift with the rockers. If I knew my heads could handle more lift 3 years ago I would have made a different choice.http://hawgnet.com/selecting-the-right-harley-cam/http://www.harley-riders-guide.com/h...dson-cams.html
You will need a fuel management system with a cam upgrade.
A cam only upgrade, without headwork, doesn't require long duration or hi-lift cams; the stock head flow flattens out at .500" lift; anything with more lift is ovekill.
The previouis poster's advice on earlier intake valve closing is good advice. Getting corrected compression up above 9:1 shoudl be the goal. Unfortunately, you can't hit that target with a cam only upgrade. IMHO, the cams you should be looking at are those with intake close events between 34*-38*. SE204, Woods 5-6, Andrews 37, TMan 525, S&S510 or similar grinds.
Any of these cams can be installed advanced 4* and your corrected CR will be less than 9:1 but performance will be improved.
If I were you, I would seriously consider boring cylinders to 103", installing the SE cast flat top pistons, .030" head gasket and looking at cams with intake close events between 38*-44*. The Andrews 37 and the TMan 525 will work installed straight up but there are other options as well. If you are planning on headwork in the future, higher lift cams (.550"-.600") could go in now. Won't hurt but will accomodate better flowing heas in the future.
djl, thanks for the great advice. Right now, I'm running a vance and hines intake with a 2-1 pro pipe and power commander V. I think I'm leaning towards a little more top end power, so it sounds like to really get what I'm after, I need to invest in some head work. Bottom end grunt is great as it is, but I'd like to have a little more get up and go after 70 mph. As for the 103" kit, it's hard for me to justify junking the stock pistons and jugs when they're so new. So maybe a big bore kit in the distant future. I just want to get the most out of the configuration I can without jumping in the big bore boat.
djl, thanks for the great advice. Right now, I'm running a vance and hines intake with a 2-1 pro pipe and power commander V. I think I'm leaning towards a little more top end power, so it sounds like to really get what I'm after, I need to invest in some head work. Bottom end grunt is great as it is, but I'd like to have a little more get up and go after 70 mph. As for the 103" kit, it's hard for me to justify junking the stock pistons and jugs when they're so new. So maybe a big bore kit in the distant future. I just want to get the most out of the configuration I can without jumping in the big bore boat.
Seems you have answered your question. However, I woudl be remiss if I failed to point out that boring to 103" and new pistons will add about $300 to the total build cost; much more cost effective in terms of dollars per foot pound of torque. A cam change will definitely help out but the performance enhancements will be limited to the rpm range the cam is designed to work in. If you go for more on the upper end of the power band, you will give up some on the lower end. An increase in displacment enhances performance all the way across the power band.
Of course, if you pull the heads to do the big bore, and you have the $$, headwork will definitely add to the package. Goo luck.
djl, thanks for the great advice. Right now, I'm running a vance and hines intake with a 2-1 pro pipe and power commander V. I think I'm leaning towards a little more top end power, so it sounds like to really get what I'm after, I need to invest in some head work. Bottom end grunt is great as it is, but I'd like to have a little more get up and go after 70 mph. As for the 103" kit, it's hard for me to justify junking the stock pistons and jugs when they're so new. So maybe a big bore kit in the distant future. I just want to get the most out of the configuration I can without jumping in the big bore boat.
Seems you have answered your question. However, I woudl be remiss if I failed to point out that boring to 103" and new pistons will add about $300 to the total build cost; much more cost effective in terms of dollars per foot pound of torque. A cam change will definitely help out but the performance enhancements will be limited to the rpm range the cam is designed to work in. If you go for more on the upper end of the power band, you will give up some on the lower end. An increase in displacment enhances performance all the way across the power band.
Of course, if you pull the heads to do the big bore, and you have the $$, headwork will definitely add to the package. Good luck.
I skipped going bigger for the same reason, well that and I was a bit crank shy and didn't want to stress it too much. I've seen enough bikes putting down decent numbers with stock cranks so I plan on pickin mine up a notch, I kinda regret not doing it when I was there with my heads off the first time, it would have been a breeze then. I would have found another reason to take it apart though, I just like workin on my bike..My next build will be the TR600SM, HPI 51mmTB, a set of Wiseco's and porting w/valves to match my build.
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