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FXDL Electrical Problem

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Old Dec 15, 2011 | 11:04 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by 8541hog
You can still get some sparking no matter what order you hook it up if there is any kind of a load on the circuit. If you graze the terminals at all instead of sticking it right in you will get spark.

I agree, before he does a ton of troubleshooting get a new battery connected, since it was cranking before I doubt there is any other trouble other than a bad battery. Unless he screwed up the starter/solenoid by cranking it so much.

I had a similar issue in which I had a small spark when I tried reconnecting one of the two black wires with looms to the chasis bolt that the negative blk cable from the battery bolts on to. Only one of them creates a very small spark going back to the negative battery cable weather the battery cable is connected to the chasis or standing alone disconnected. Is that normal? Btw I put a fresh battery and the bike turns on, I'm just concerned that this small sparking issue will slowly drain my battery.
Oh yeah, I have an '03 Dyna Low Rider with around 5k. All was working fine until I installed a Kyuriakin lay down license plate with LEDs and a week after the Harley Boom Audio handlebar speaker system. I think this out my original battery over the edge.

Thx for all your help in advance.
 

Last edited by rougue66; Dec 15, 2011 at 11:07 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2011 | 11:21 AM
  #12  
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Do you have a security system or anything else that is active with the ignition off? Where did you tie the power in to your LED license plate?

You can check the electrical draw by disconnecting the negative cable and connect a volt meter between the negative cable and the negative battery terminal. Note the voltage reading.

Pull the fuses one at a time. The fuse you pull that causes the meter to read zero volts is the circuit that is causing the draw. It's possible for the meter to read voltage and not draini your battery though.

An amp meter needs to be used to determine whether or not you have current flowing, that's what will drain your battery.

If that makes sense you're on your way to finding the problem if you actually have one at all. If this doesn't make sense, you might want to find a buddy that is more familiar with the electrical system to give you a hand.

It's also possible, if none of this makes sense, is that I haven't slept in over 24 hours. If that's the case, I apologize. A "tiny" spark is probably nothing to worry about. Check you battery voltage a few times the first day, and then first thing the next morning. If it holds the charge under a load (cranking) you should be fine.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2011 | 11:25 PM
  #13  
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thanks for your help clicker01. I did the test with the voltmeter you suggested. I don't have a security system but do have the TSM (turn signal module). Looking at the schematic I followed the power from the battery thru the fuse and then to the TSM input power. I think that somewhere inside the module it is allowing power to go thru the system and grounding out to the ground loom. Could the TSM be bad and still work? I'm going to connect my Boom Audio system this weekend and I'm just afraid that the audio system will drain my battery if it is tied to the system that is grounding out. It only has three wires: black-to the chasis bolt red-to battery +terminal orange/wt to the rear tailight harness orange/white wire using one of those connectors that bite into the wire. I'm thinking i'll do as the instructions say and cut and solder the two wires together. I don't know if that will make the conection any better. sorry for the long post. If talking to someone would be easier to give/get information i can PM my number. So far I've gotten much further than I did on my own thanks to this forum. thank you so much again.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 03:25 AM
  #14  
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So it's been about 6 days since your first post. Is the bike cranking good and firing up? What voltage are you getting after the bike is sitting over night, before riding? What is the voltage while you're cranking it over? With your meter hooked up to your battery, disconnect your spark plug wires at the coil. Watch your meter while you crank the starter for 15 seconds. What does the battery voltage drop to?

As far as I know, the TSM is a pretty hardy component. If it were allowing voltage to flow directly to ground, I'm pretty sure your turn signals wouldn't work, and your new battery would be toast by morning, so I don't think you have a problem there.

If it were me, I would make certain any issues are corrected, or verify I don't have an issue prior to adding any additional accessory electrical loads.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 08:56 PM
  #15  
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My new battery charge hardly drops from night to morning. It usually stays around 12.7-12.85. It seems to be holding a charge unlike before when I had the original battery on there. I'm just thinking there should be no kind of small sparking when I connect one of the two dual wire looms to the chasis bolt while the neg. Cable is attached. All this started when I put on the integrated rear signal LEDs that one of the wires came off and was grounding out. I fixed it only after I installed the harley boom audio system. One night I fixed the wire issue, put a brand new battery rode it to a bar and back home then the next morning the battery was drained to 12.3 volts and just died after trying to crank it for about 6-8 minutes. This time whith a new battery I saw the bike shop put a brass block in the terminal and have,nt had a problem since. Don't know if that caused a bad connection on the last battery. Thanks for your help. I almost want to spend the $114.00 on a new TSM f/the stealer. I did notice that once I wired the rear signals correctly when I put the brake lens on the second brake light element would light up as if I had the brakes on. Also, while in the accessory mode when pulling the brake the headlight would go to hi beam? Then just by turning the key off then on, they would work fine. Weird...
 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 10:55 PM
  #16  
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FYI, the original description is of a Battery with a bad Cell. One of the Cells is shorted. If the short is near the top of the Battery Plates and it is exposed . . . not covered by the Electrolyte . . . it can and will explode. This can happen when: 1.) Being Charged or 2.) Being Discharged. The explosion will be with the force of one or two sticks of Dynamite. It is approximately like having a Hand Grenade going off right in front of you. When a Battery explodes things can get very very ugly for anyone near the Battery. Think shrapnel and all to often the loss of your eyesight if you did not have safety goggles on! It doesn't happen all that often (luckily), but it happens frequently enough that one really wants to treat a suspect Battery with some serious respect! All those warning labels you see on a Battery? They aren't there just to keep some lawyer happy!
 

Last edited by Bluehighways; Dec 21, 2011 at 10:57 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 01:19 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by rougue66
My new battery charge hardly drops from night to morning. It usually stays around 12.7-12.85. It seems to be holding a charge unlike before when I had the original battery on there. I'm just thinking there should be no kind of small sparking when I connect one of the two dual wire looms to the chasis bolt while the neg. Cable is attached. All this started when I put on the integrated rear signal LEDs that one of the wires came off and was grounding out. I fixed it only after I installed the harley boom audio system. One night I fixed the wire issue, put a brand new battery rode it to a bar and back home then the next morning the battery was drained to 12.3 volts and just died after trying to crank it for about 6-8 minutes. This time whith a new battery I saw the bike shop put a brass block in the terminal and have,nt had a problem since. Don't know if that caused a bad connection on the last battery. Thanks for your help. I almost want to spend the $114.00 on a new TSM f/the stealer. I did notice that once I wired the rear signals correctly when I put the brake lens on the second brake light element would light up as if I had the brakes on. Also, while in the accessory mode when pulling the brake the headlight would go to hi beam? Then just by turning the key off then on, they would work fine. Weird...
If you ride your bike to a dealer, they should be able to loan you a known good TSM for a few minutes to see if the light spark goes away or not. Just bring whatever tools you need to swap the TSM and pull the ground off the frame to see if it makes a difference. I think your bike is fine now. It's not unusual to have a parasitic draw through the alternator. But seeing as how your voltage is holding above 12.5 volts overnight, I think you're more than good to go. That weird brake filament issue sounds like a screwy ground (or lack of) you fixed when you straightened out your wiring (good on you!) The head light deal... gremlins?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 08:24 PM
  #18  
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Gentlemen, thank you so much for replying to my hijacked post (sorry). But I've gathered some really good information within. I will be installing the Boom audio system this weekend and will report back to see if my new Drag Specialties Battery holds the charge. I'll keep my fingers crossed and thanks again for all your help...
 
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 02:18 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by rougue66
Gentlemen, thank you so much for replying to my hijacked post (sorry). But I've gathered some really good information within. I will be installing the Boom audio system this weekend and will report back to see if my new Drag Specialties Battery holds the charge. I'll keep my fingers crossed and thanks again for all your help...
No sweat bro. Take care... I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you and have fun with the audio install.
 
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