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Front spring install

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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 03:34 PM
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Default Front spring install

Hi everyone, i ordered some progressive fork springs and I want to be prepared when they arrive. any special tools, fork oil? tips or tricks or anything you can tell me in advance would be appreciated. i do have a jack.

2010 fxd with 7.5K and the progressive springs are stock length. Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ynots
Hi everyone, i ordered some progressive fork springs and I want to be prepared when they arrive. any special tools, fork oil? tips or tricks or anything you can tell me in advance would be appreciated. i do have a jack.

2010 fxd with 7.5K and the progressive springs are stock length. Thanks!
I installed the works performance front spring kit in my '07 Dyna and yes, there are some tips.

1) Cover the tank, front fender, etc with blankets or old towels.
2) I purchased a special socket to remove/install the fork nuts. This socket allows you to get in there without the handle bars getting in the way.
3) Be ready when you remove those nuts. They are going to take off like a projectile if you allow them to get away from you (see #1).
4) Here is one place you are going to get into trouble: there is no fork drain on the Dynas (not my '07, anyway). You have to remove the whole f'in fork tube from the bike to drain the oil and then get the level right when you refill it. I did not. I sucked the oil out and then played with the level. This required several times removing oil, riding the bike over bumps and repeating.
5) I used some belray fork oil in the same weight H-D calls out in the service manual (you have a service and parts manual, right?)
6) The nuts are difficult to reinstall because you will be fighting the spring compression (see #1). You purchased new o-rings for the fork nuts, right? (you have a service and parts manual, right?)
 
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Old Aug 16, 2011 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by harley_jeff
4) Here is one place you are going to get into trouble: there is no fork drain on the Dynas (not my '07, anyway). You have to remove the whole f'in fork tube from the bike to drain the oil and then get the level right when you refill it. I did not. I sucked the oil out and then played with the level. This required several times removing oil, riding the bike over bumps and repeating.
Ideally its best to disassemble the forks anyway to get ALL that OLD oil out in which case you will be changing the seals and bushings anyway so just drain them from the slider bolt. For setting the level if you remove the fork and compress is as per the manual and use a suction type tool, its very easy to get it right the first time, every time.


Originally Posted by harley_jeff
6) The nuts are difficult to reinstall because you will be fighting the spring compression
I got the Jim's tool and found that using it with a 6" extension on my ratchet to apply pressure while turning the socket by hand (with a rubber glove) it went on very easy
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 10:21 AM
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Thanks guys. I do have the service manual. I'm not planning to disassemble the sliders.

The manual states to have fork tube vertical and fully compressed (with no spring or spacer) when measuring oil level. I realize with the 29 degree rake its going to involve some guess work. Progressive springs displace more oil so i suspect ill be suctioning some out, not adding. The maintenance interval for the front forks is 50,000K & I'd rather not mess with the disassemble, changing out the seals and oil right now.

Has anyone else done spring installs with the tubes left in the trees?
Is a special tool really necessary for installing the fork tube cap?
Is leaving the tubes on the bike a totally stupid idea? lol
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 12:53 PM
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from YNOTS:
"Has anyone else done spring installs with the tubes left in the trees?
Is a special tool really necessary for installing the fork tube cap?
Is leaving the tubes on the bike a totally stupid idea"

If you don't really want to do it "by the book," swapping the springs with the tubes still mounted can be accomplished; the only negative is difficulty in removing all the old fluid and attaining the "exact" fluid level measurement of the new fluid with the angle of the forks. Still yet, if you are careful, you should be able to get the fluid level close enough to where the forks will operate quite satisfactorily.

I highly recommend replacing the stock fork oil with SE oil - it tightens up the front suspension while still giving a smooth ride.

Make sure you jack up the front end so that the front forks are fully extended - you want to relieve as much pressure as you can off the fork caps. Loosen the top clamp bolt, then very carefully remove the caps using gloves, rags, etc. If I remember correctly, the caps unscrew about 1/2 inch or so before the release point, so as you get close to that height you might slow down and keep two hands on the cap - it will pop off with quite a bit of force as noted in previous replies.

To assist in the fluid change you can compress the forks by bringing up the wheel and blocking it in place with a jack, bucket, wood block, etc. And bring the wheel up slowly - going too fast will likely cause fluid to squirt out the top and get all over the bike and floor (trust me on that!).

Make your changes, reassemble, then go for a ride to check out the mods. Let us know it works out.

~
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 03:05 PM
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Thanks for the info:

Going by the book you service the forks at 50,000 miles. Right now Im just wanting to swap the springs. I do have some suction tools so Ill do what I can to get all the old fluid out. I will give the Se fork oil a try.

Ill take round cylinder comparable to the tube size and put some fluid in it and take a vertical measurement (5.5" from the top). then tip it 29 degrees and measure it again. That should give me pretty good idea how high to adjust the level.

It sucks that HD didn't incorporate drain plugs in their tubes
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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The fork angle should not be a big obstacle. Just measure the fluid height from the side of the fork instead of the front or the back. The fork will only be tilted one way as long as you hold the handlebars straight. At 7.5k miles your fluid should be fine but I can tell you that it will me shot way before 50k miles. I usually change mine with every tire change. It is fairly easy. I also wouldn't just go throwing thicker oil in there. Contrary to some beliefs, thicker oil won't always make your bike handle better. It will slow suspension action down and that could be problematic if you encounter irregularities on the road. You on the otherhand are going about it the right way by changing the springs. You can also change the spacer tubes so you can adjust spring preload and set your sag correctly which should be 0.75-1.0 inch.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ynots
Hi everyone, i ordered some progressive fork springs and I want to be prepared when they arrive. any special tools, fork oil? tips or tricks or anything you can tell me in advance would be appreciated. i do have a jack.

2010 fxd with 7.5K and the progressive springs are stock length. Thanks!
where did you order your progressive springs from?
 
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 03:59 PM
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Old Aug 17, 2011 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by escherWG
where did you order your progressive springs from?
I ordered the springs from jcmotors.com. They are having a August sale. Paid $58.00 + shipping. Also picked up some progressive 970 shocks earlier this month for 300.00 off retail. Liked them so much decided to try their fork springs

Thanks for the links!!!!!!!
 

Last edited by ynots; Aug 17, 2011 at 06:33 PM.
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