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Thinking about the approaching winter.

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Old Sep 22, 2011 | 10:00 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by nevil
Last year I lowered the bike and found that it limited the amount of fun I could have in the twisties, which is most of the riding I do. Too much grinding of parts for my liking, and a harsher ride.
So I went the other way and put on 1/2" longer Ohlins on the back. No more scraping and way more stable cornering and comfort. The front end has Progressive springs and it helped, that will be the next area I look at. For great suspension advice, look up Howard at motorcyclemetal.com, a sponsor here.
Agreed. If you want handling, don't give up suspension travel. I went with Ricor front and rear for a total cost of about $1,000.

That just leaves your budget with $1,000 for engine upgrades. That might buy a cam and PCV and pay for a dyno tune.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 08:49 AM
  #12  
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Can cams be safely done w/ out beefing up the valve lifters and springs? I am officially out of warranty as of Oct 7th this year so I don't want to do something that will wind up blowing out my valves leaving me on the side of the road.

And yeah I think I will nix the lowering idea. I want a bike that handles and performs a little more like a bat out of h-e- double hockey sticks more than I want a bike that just looks like it does when parked by the curb.

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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 09:09 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by USMAMule
So I know Cams are a start - are new lifters and springs needed?
Not necessarily if the lifters are in good shape. Spring, which I assume you're referring to the valve springs in the heads, no. Again, depends how far you want to go.

Originally Posted by USMAMule
If I switch cams do I need to do a fuel management system?
Absolutely. If I were in your position, I'd look into either the TTS Mastertune or Thundermax w/auto-tune. Also, I would seriously think about getting the headwork done. Depending on the cams you choose, bump it to ~10:1. You'll get the most out of the cams and still maintain reliability. A port/polish job would also seriously compliment the cams.

I've been running my TW6 cams for well over a year without headwork. The cam swap cost me just over $500 including the cams. They were used and more than half price. Not a bad cam but I'd look at the Andrews 54, Wood tw5 (same as the tw6 with more lift) or the 408-44.

Swapping cams is fairly simple. I did not swap the inner bearings as that would have added a lot to the overall cost due to tool purchases. My bike only had ~18k miles on it when I did the swap. Had no issues since.

Like you, I'm no mechanic but am mech-inclined. A few forum members offered telephone assistance when I had a question which was very helpful.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #14  
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Looking at the sites - I can't tell a impractical difference between the TTS and the Thundermax w/ Auto tune. - Unless it is the auto tune part - but the TTS Mastertune seems to indicate it does some auto tuning of its own. There must be some difference since one seems to be double the price of the other. Well almost.

USMAMule
 
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 11:56 AM
  #15  
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The TTS uses the stock narrowband o2 ensors. TMAT uses wide-band o2 sensors that come with the kit.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 01:39 PM
  #16  
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Thanks for the info SC... Since I have O2 Sensors - seems silly to buy new ones just for a programmable EFI controller. And yeah I meant the valve springs. Now reading the sights it seems they are saying new adjustable push rods.

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Old Sep 23, 2011 | 03:18 PM
  #17  
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You don't need to buy new o2 sensors. The TTS uses your stock sensors. If you bought a TMAT, it would come with new wideband sensors. No extra cost involved.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2011 | 03:05 PM
  #18  
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Yeah I got that from you last post. Guess I didn't write very well. What I meant was since the one uses my existing O2 sensors that would seem to be the one to go for rather than spend the extra $$ on the Thundermax just to replace perfectly fine O2 sensors. That's all. And I just reread my last post - man what was wrong with me yesterday? I was definitely communication challenged. I should have said: reading the sites it seems they are recommending new push rods with the cams. Are they really needed?


I guess I should mention - I don't think I have any actual problems with my engine at this point all seems to be working fine. Just looking to squeeze some more HP and torque out of it.

Thanks,

USMAMule
 
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