Primary Removal
Primary Removal
Well now that that time of the year is about here, I've got a few things I'm plannning on doing. The biggest project is to remove the entire primary cover to gain access to the shifter spline/linkage. For some reason I cant tighten up the linkage enough to remove the wobble. I watched the video on you tube with some dude wearing shorts and socks that made it look pretty easy. My question is aimed to the ones that have actually removed the entire primary. Is this project straight forward? Any tips, do's and don'ts would be appreciated. I do have a manual so I'm sure I'll be referencing for assistance.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,450
Likes: 4
From: El Cajon Ca.
It's not bad. Go by the book and you will be fine. It is a 3 beer job though. I have had good luck fixing those by replacing the bolt with new and using a good swivel and torque the crap out of it. All with the primary in place. If you do pull it don't forget the starter bolts. 
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,763
Likes: 2,597
From: san antonio
There are two areas to pay particular attention to when you R/R the inner primary.
When installing the inner primary, it is real easy to nick the inner primary race oil seal on the trans main shaft when installing the inner primary. Suggest that you use duct tape or some other material to cover the trans shaft splines and protect the seal.
You didnt' say which model year and the later model years have the flanged bolts with the rubber seal under the flange to prevent outer primary lubricant from leaking through the bolt holes and leaking out between the inner primary and the motor case. Earlier models did not have these self sealing bolts and relied on RTV sealant behind the bolt and lock to seal against the chain case lubricant from seeping through and leaking. Some guys apply the RTV sealant between the inner primary and the motor case which is a bad idea and the MoCo has a tech bulletin advising against that approach. If you have an earlier model, application of some black RTV sealant between the lock and the primary and between the lock and bolt head will seal the inner primary. I use Hylomar sealant for this because it never takes a set. The three bolts behind the clutch are the worst offenders. If you have a later model, toss the old bolts and replace with new.
Both topics are covered in the manual but, IMHO, deserve special attention. It is very disheartening to R/R the complete primary, finish the task at hand and see that small spot of oil on the floor after the first 100 miles.
When installing the inner primary, it is real easy to nick the inner primary race oil seal on the trans main shaft when installing the inner primary. Suggest that you use duct tape or some other material to cover the trans shaft splines and protect the seal.
You didnt' say which model year and the later model years have the flanged bolts with the rubber seal under the flange to prevent outer primary lubricant from leaking through the bolt holes and leaking out between the inner primary and the motor case. Earlier models did not have these self sealing bolts and relied on RTV sealant behind the bolt and lock to seal against the chain case lubricant from seeping through and leaking. Some guys apply the RTV sealant between the inner primary and the motor case which is a bad idea and the MoCo has a tech bulletin advising against that approach. If you have an earlier model, application of some black RTV sealant between the lock and the primary and between the lock and bolt head will seal the inner primary. I use Hylomar sealant for this because it never takes a set. The three bolts behind the clutch are the worst offenders. If you have a later model, toss the old bolts and replace with new.
Both topics are covered in the manual but, IMHO, deserve special attention. It is very disheartening to R/R the complete primary, finish the task at hand and see that small spot of oil on the floor after the first 100 miles.
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