Powder-coating lower fork and triple trees

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Dec 28, 2011 | 04:57 PM

#11

p51bombay

Ultimate HDF Member

Joined: Jun 2010

Posts: 5,105

Likes: 16

From: Blaine, WA

I ordered the 12mm from snap on (brand ***** - LOL) but if you can't find a longer one just make sure the bit is removable, then cut off a L key and insert it into the socket. It doesn't matter if it falls out after.

Dec 28, 2011 | 05:21 PM

#12

Dropkick

Cruiser

Joined: Sep 2011

Posts: 239

Likes: 1

From: Alexandria Va

Awesome this thread came up. I just got a quote for powder coating my front end. Already have my service manual and those tools in my garage. I have that same jack. I used it when I installed forward controls. I didn't use a frame adapter, just used the tie downs to make sure she couldn't go anywhere.

The manual says for dis-assembly, "clamp fork tube in FORK HOLDING TOOL (part no. HD-41177) and mount in vise. Is that really necessary? I'm thinking I can make my own.

Good luck with your project low r1d3r.

Dec 28, 2011 | 06:20 PM

#13

p51bombay

Ultimate HDF Member

Joined: Jun 2010

Posts: 5,105

Likes: 16

From: Blaine, WA

You have a fork holding tool already, its called the triple clamp on your bike.

Loosen the top triple clamp pinch bolts but leave the bottom ones tight.

Remove the stem nut and the top clamp ( you don't have to but it gives more room to work)

LOOSEN but do not remove the top cap nut.

Using your impact wrench, now remove that 12mm allen holding then slider on.

Now remove that top cap nut while the lower triple clamp holds the tube, once that is out then remove and fully dissassemble the tube.

On reassembly use that lower triple clamp at appropriate times to hold the tube - makes life much easier, especially while reinstalling that top cap nut.......with the tube clamped low enough to where you can get above it and put your weight on the ratchet all you need to do is spin it with your other hand and it will thread right on.

What I did was assemble the fork without oil using the spring to hold the damper rod, remove the cap and spring, add oil and reinstall the spring and cap.

Dec 28, 2011 | 06:30 PM

#14

Jeff W

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Dec 2009

Posts: 2,312

Likes: 12

From: Missouri

Long butted 12mm Allen socket, I ended up with the short one and ground the socket part down until it fit up in the hole, breaker bar and hammer knocked it right loose with a bud holding it, no vice needed.
It's an easy job, just lay everything out in order as they come out, then it's just a matter of reversing going back.

Dec 28, 2011 | 07:33 PM

#15

dynabobster

Tourer

Joined: Feb 2011

Posts: 351

Likes: 2

Quote:

Originally Posted by L0W R1D3R

What did Santa leave under the tree for me? A Craftsman yellow motorcycle jack! http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2&blockType=G2

Are there any special tools needed other than a ridiculously large socket to open the top of the forks?

The Sears Yellow jack is a PITA to use so do yourself a favor and return the Yellow jack and exchange it for the Red jack then do the SC Mod https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ification.html to move the lift pads to the outside of the lift arms. Same can be done with the MC Jack Harbor Freight sells and you do not have to cut the center bar out. HF jack on sale for 59.99 coupon code 31790191 and they should honor the code at the store.
http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_14601.jpg

Get your self the the special socket for the fork caps.
http://www.mbsmfg.com/hafocapnutso.html
If you are removing the triples you are going to have to access the electrical connectors in the frame just in front of the tank, best to remove the tank and get it out of the way so you don't damage it.
A how to I posted a while back
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/8685048-post12.html

Dec 29, 2011 | 10:13 AM

#16

Ganooch

Thread Starter

Road Warrior

Joined: Feb 2007

Posts: 1,370

Likes: 21

From: McKinney, TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by p51bombay

Spend another $50 at Sears (before they close it) for a 3/8" butteryfly impact wrench and a 12mm socket wrench - it will make getting the sliders off much easier, in fact, you can do the job without ever removing the spring from the tube.

Powder-coating the lowers, so springs need to come out. I already have a 12mm socket and a hefty, long as hell, torque wrench. Don't think I am going to throw down for an impact just yet. Maybe after I get a good air compressor...

Dec 29, 2011 | 10:18 AM

#17

Ganooch

Thread Starter

Road Warrior

Joined: Feb 2007

Posts: 1,370

Likes: 21

From: McKinney, TX

Quote:

Originally Posted by dynabobster

Awesome how-to. There seems to be a little more to this than I bargained for. I followed everything except the clean, dry and repack bearings. Is there a special tool needed? Can the bearings remain assembled?