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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 01:59 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 8541hog
Didn't realize they had been apart. Was it the same before?
If I could see the top plate setup I could tell you, but can't readily find any pics of it.
Not difficult with a lift to drop the legs as a whole front end if you have pinch clamps, have done it a few times before I swapped trees.
Pic of top of fld but nacelle covers the plate.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 02:04 PM
  #32  
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You actually have an advantage. Even though the FLD front end has thinner forks they are cartridge style dampers which is a great improvement over over the damping rod style 49mm forks. As far as springs I prefer straight rate springs for performance over progressive wound coils. The progressive coils can give a smoother ride and that may be a consideration but a properly selected straight winding is hard to beat for overall handling.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 02:04 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by FBinSoCal
Pic of top of fld but nacelle covers the plate.
Does it look like they will slide up in the trees? Hard to tell but looks like they will.
If so, I bet you could replace the springs, or add oil, in those without removing the tubes, loosen the pinch bolts and the top cap, just make sure it is on a lift with no pressure on the front end.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 02:18 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by DCLXVI
You actually have an advantage. Even though the FLD front end has thinner forks they are cartridge style dampers which is a great improvement over over the damping rod style 49mm forks. As far as springs I prefer straight rate springs for performance over progressive wound coils. The progressive coils can give a smoother ride and that may be a consideration but a properly selected straight winding is hard to beat for overall handling.
What is the difference between a straight rate spring and a progressive? I'm assuming the progressive is the way it's wound or did I just totally reveal my ignorance? lol
So straight rate spring, properly selected...how would you determine what constitutes a proper selection based upon my fld front end, configuration and dynamics? I won't be messing with the geometry, just the ride, right? DCL...i'm obviously danny-dum-**** on this stuff and really appreciating your and 8541's input.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinSoCal
What is the difference between a straight rate spring and a progressive? I'm assuming the progressive is the way it's wound or did I just totally reveal my ignorance? lol
So straight rate spring, properly selected...how would you determine what constitutes a proper selection based upon my fld front end, configuration and dynamics? I won't be messing with the geometry, just the ride, right? DCL...i'm obviously danny-dum-**** on this stuff and really appreciating your and 8541's input.
In very simple terms....Progressive rate means the first little compression is at a lighter rate, then as you compress more it gets stiffer, so it can handle little bumps relatively unnoticed but still be stiff for the big ones.
When you look at the springs you will see varying rates of winding.

http://www.progressivesuspension.com...ngs/index.html
 

Last edited by 8541hog; Dec 31, 2011 at 02:24 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541hog
In very simple terms....Progressive rate means the first little compression is at a lighter rate, then as you compress more it gets stiffer, so it can handle little bumps relatively unnoticed but still be stiff for the big ones.
When you look at the springs you will see varying rates of winding.

http://www.progressivesuspension.com...ngs/index.html
OK, I;m understanding this better now. On that site, there are several choices, 412's 430's, I will be calling them next week to see what's best for my weight, etc. I clicked ona couple of the choices and it looks like it gonna be over $500, damn. On the surface, it appears this is the way to go though. Guys, once again...THANK YOU, you are awesome!

Lakers game is starting..I'm outta here for now, happy new year to all!
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 02:38 PM
  #37  
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Not sure on yours, but there is also a spacer that fits in the tubes to give preload to the springs, if your indy put the wrong one in or left it out, that would certainly make things go bump.
My technical savvy on selecting springs is not all that great, I usually end up experimenting, you can alter, type and/or amount of oil, preload on the springs, or the springs themselves. All of these will change the ride feel, and no it will not change geometry of the front end.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by FBinSoCal
OK, I;m understanding this better now. On that site, there are several choices, 412's 430's, I will be calling them next week to see what's best for my weight, etc. I clicked ona couple of the choices and it looks like it gonna be over $500, damn. On the surface, it appears this is the way to go though. Guys, once again...THANK YOU, you are awesome!

Lakers game is starting..I'm outta here for now, happy new year to all!

If I had known you were a basketball fan I would not have helped so much....LOL

Enjoy the game.
 
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 06:05 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by 8541hog
If I had known you were a basketball fan I would not have helped so much....LOL

Enjoy the game.
Love the Lakers bro, hell just about everyone in LA does. Been a fan for years.

Anyway, I looked up some diagrams of front ends and now better understand what you guys were trying to tell me. I should have looked some up to begin with. Blue prints I understand. I'm just not very hep to engine, motorcycle and car mechanics, is my problem. Never liked getting greasy much nor bustin my knuckles on bolts so never really took the time to look into it all. Like anything else though, it's a matter of just getting into it and figuring it out to understand it, right? I've been a builder my whole life including constructing very difficult foundations, structural flying decks, masonry hotels, strip centers, on and on and etc. So when I can visualize or see a picture, I can usually kinda hold my own.

Progressive Suspension has literally named their brand on their concept. I can see where their niche is a very valid one as it takes a lot of the "proper selection" guesswork out of mating the right springs to the anticipated loads. Very forgiving system and like comparing the present wide headed golf club heads to the blades of old. One is versatile and forgiving, one you have to hit it exactly right. So with all of that being said, how is the "cartridge" damper rod an advantage over a traditional damper rod? I can't find a detail on that yet. LOL
 

Last edited by FBinSoCal; Dec 31, 2011 at 06:09 PM.
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Old Dec 31, 2011 | 06:15 PM
  #40  
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My previous thread on this subject produced some good info. Have a look.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/frame...fferences.html
 
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