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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I love how dealers tell people they'll void there warranties. LIES, it can only void a direct problem related to the mod. ie. burned piston due to lean condition ect.
I hear this crap all the time at my shop. As stated I'd change the oil at 500 and roll. Alot of scare tactics to keep service work in the dealership.
Don't think anyone was talking about voiding warranties, my point was the new aftermarket parts will not be covered by the HD factory warranty.
Stock these bikes are set up way lean and run hot, even more so in break in.Thunderheaders are known to get really hot too might not be a good idea to put one on without some sort of fuel management.I ran mine like that for a little while it ran like crap and burned a hole in my pant leg.Sort of took all the fun out of it.
my dealer told me to wait just because if anything were to go wrong during the break-in, they cant blame it on the pipe. but if anything were to happen to the motor or anything, i doubt it would be a pipe problem. especially since id go get it re-mapped as soon as i installed the pipe. and RE the oil conversation, doesnt harley run their SYN3 in all their new bikes anyway?
my dealer told me to wait just because if anything were to go wrong during the break-in, they cant blame it on the pipe. but if anything were to happen to the motor or anything, i doubt it would be a pipe problem. especially since id go get it re-mapped as soon as i installed the pipe. and RE the oil conversation, doesnt harley run their SYN3 in all their new bikes anyway?
Unless they have changed practices, the factory puts dino oil in, and recommend syn at the oil change, no sense using expensive oil for such a short duration.
I can't see why it would hurt anything.
Go for a ride and satisfy them.
I started making mods at 500 miles.
First thing is get rid of that Harley oil at 500 miles.
I changed my oil and filter out @100, 500, and 1200 miles and then switched to synthetic @ 2 thousand miles and that is what I run @ this time, as it think that syn runs cooler and is a better lubricant.
I'm really new to this forum and Dyna's especially (but not to motorcyles) so I have a rookie question. Why change the oil at 500 miles? My manual shows first service at 1,000 miles. Is the earlier oil change really necessary? Don't want to mess up my new ride by waiting.
Grumpy Ole Dude
Originally Posted by pdog
Because of the metal floating around in the engine from break in. I would change the filter again at 1500.
Originally Posted by 8541hog
By 500 miles most if not all metal grinding is done internally, change at 500 to get those shavings out before they can do any harm. Then change at 1000 on the odometer again. Think of it as helping your motor last longer.
Y'all act like there's no oil filter on the motor...
The stock filter has a 5 micron rating. More than sufficient to keep grit from floating around the engine. I challenge anyone to show me proof that a 500 mile oil change makes any difference over a 1000 mile oil change. I waited to 1k miles on my bagger. I beat the crap out of it, and 23k miles later all is still good. I waited to 1k miles on my Dyna too, and it gets beat on even harder. No problems with that one either...
If you really want to be **** about metal contamination, you need to change at 20 miles, 100 miles, then 500. And use the Mototune break in method to boot!
Now, as to the OP's question- It doesn't matter when you put on the exhaust. It won't affect anything negatively.
If it's a chrome Thunderheader, you may want to consider an intake and a dyno tune, as the head pipes will blue significantly with a stock tune.
just install it and have fun. but definitely get a fuel management in the near future. and as for oil changes my first change was at 2500 and swapped dino to synthetic...screw the 500,and 1k change thats the job of the filter to pick up any metal shavings, the magnet on the oil pan plug had minimal shavings on it....
does anyone have any experience with the screaming eagle street Performance tuner Kit? reading up on it, it seems to be pretty good. if i use it, would i still need a stage1 download or fuelpak? or is it an equal to the download with more owner control of the tune?
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