Red Key - after install LED rearlight , and removed front indicators
Supporter
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 627
Likes: 2
From: Salem, OR
Mine has 3 per side, I know because I changed bars and had to disassemble the connectors.
Last edited by xantasm; Feb 11, 2012 at 03:00 AM.
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Novice
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Denmark
I mounted 2 bulb blinkers in front - Now everything is working ..... And yes , only 2 wires
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 708
Likes: 5
From: Bluffton, SC
Glad to hear the problems fixed. The number of wires in the turn signals is year dependent. I think the indicators went to 3 wires in 2007.
Novice
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
WADR, FenceSC is incorrect... The problem with the key icon is in fact load. It has nothing to do with the front turn signals being two wire or three wire. (BTW, front turn signals have been three wire since they came out in 1973. 1157 bulb to do run and turn functions.)
When you removed the front signals, the current draw was cut in half, so the TSM (or TSSM or HFSM) system sets a trouble code. The trouble code is reported by the key icon... Same exact thing as happens when you switch to LEDs.
You need a Load Equalizer. Talk to Dan at Badlands, been working with the dude for years, he is a freakin' genius at this stuff...
When you removed the front signals, the current draw was cut in half, so the TSM (or TSSM or HFSM) system sets a trouble code. The trouble code is reported by the key icon... Same exact thing as happens when you switch to LEDs.
You need a Load Equalizer. Talk to Dan at Badlands, been working with the dude for years, he is a freakin' genius at this stuff...
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 30
From: Ashburn, VA
WADR, FenceSC is incorrect... The problem with the key icon is in fact load. It has nothing to do with the front turn signals being two wire or three wire. (BTW, front turn signals have been three wire since they came out in 1973. 1157 bulb to do run and turn functions.)
When you removed the front signals, the current draw was cut in half, so the TSM (or TSSM or HFSM) system sets a trouble code. The trouble code is reported by the key icon... Same exact thing as happens when you switch to LEDs.
You need a Load Equalizer. Talk to Dan at Badlands, been working with the dude for years, he is a freakin' genius at this stuff...
When you removed the front signals, the current draw was cut in half, so the TSM (or TSSM or HFSM) system sets a trouble code. The trouble code is reported by the key icon... Same exact thing as happens when you switch to LEDs.
You need a Load Equalizer. Talk to Dan at Badlands, been working with the dude for years, he is a freakin' genius at this stuff...
I didn't want to reply back and start a back/forth with anybody over it since I have officially not installed a Badlands Load Equalizer to resolve the issue myself but I was pretty sure it was all load related.
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 708
Likes: 5
From: Bluffton, SC
WADR, FenceSC is incorrect... The problem with the key icon is in fact load. It has nothing to do with the front turn signals being two wire or three wire. (BTW, front turn signals have been three wire since they came out in 1973. 1157 bulb to do run and turn functions.)
When you removed the front signals, the current draw was cut in half, so the TSM (or TSSM or HFSM) system sets a trouble code. The trouble code is reported by the key icon... Same exact thing as happens when you switch to LEDs.
You need a Load Equalizer. Talk to Dan at Badlands, been working with the dude for years, he is a freakin' genius at this stuff...
When you removed the front signals, the current draw was cut in half, so the TSM (or TSSM or HFSM) system sets a trouble code. The trouble code is reported by the key icon... Same exact thing as happens when you switch to LEDs.
You need a Load Equalizer. Talk to Dan at Badlands, been working with the dude for years, he is a freakin' genius at this stuff...
A load equalizer has stopped my signals from blinking fast, however the key remains lit because there is still an open circuit.
I use hand signals all the time too I wanted to remove the rear signals but that warning light comes one and it bothered me. For some reason my bike doesn't care about the front signals. I was able to clear that code and it never came back. I wonder what I could do if I didn't want to run any rear signals about that light short of putting a piece of tape over the light.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 30
From: Ashburn, VA
I have now confirmed that the signals operate at normal speed and the Red key light does go out with the Badlands Load Equalizer installed.
I just installed Badlands LE-03-A on Thursday night. I run an LED sidemount brake light and LED rear signals (wired as brake/turns not running) and I have no front signals. This is on my 2010 Street Bob. No more red key light or hyperflash.
I just installed Badlands LE-03-A on Thursday night. I run an LED sidemount brake light and LED rear signals (wired as brake/turns not running) and I have no front signals. This is on my 2010 Street Bob. No more red key light or hyperflash.
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Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 708
Likes: 5
From: Bluffton, SC
I have now confirmed that the signals operate at normal speed and the Red key light does go out with the Badlands Load Equalizer installed.
I just installed Badlands LE-03-A on Thursday night. I run an LED sidemount brake light and LED rear signals (wired as brake/turns not running) and I have no front signals. This is on my 2010 Street Bob. No more red key light or hyperflash.
I just installed Badlands LE-03-A on Thursday night. I run an LED sidemount brake light and LED rear signals (wired as brake/turns not running) and I have no front signals. This is on my 2010 Street Bob. No more red key light or hyperflash.
1. When you removed the front sigs, did you simply disconnect at the harness?
2. Are your rear sigs two or three wire? If two, what did you do with the purple wire?
I have installed a load equalizer and it eliminates the fast blink but doesn't eliminate the red key. Both front and rear LED sigs on my bike are two wire, and I simply taped off the purple wire.
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 30
From: Ashburn, VA
Ok. I'll go to school here. I would like to know what is different from what I have done.
1. When you removed the front sigs, did you simply disconnect at the harness?
2. Are your rear sigs two or three wire? If two, what did you do with the purple wire?
I have installed a load equalizer and it eliminates the fast blink but doesn't eliminate the red key. Both front and rear LED sigs on my bike are two wire, and I simply taped off the purple wire.
1. When you removed the front sigs, did you simply disconnect at the harness?
2. Are your rear sigs two or three wire? If two, what did you do with the purple wire?
I have installed a load equalizer and it eliminates the fast blink but doesn't eliminate the red key. Both front and rear LED sigs on my bike are two wire, and I simply taped off the purple wire.
2) This is where you may be mixing things up. My rear sigs are 3 wires. (Batt+, Ground, Running) My rear LED sigs are wired with 2 wires so they only work as brake lights and turn signals. The 3rd wire is for the running lights, which I do not use, so I cut them and used heat shrink on them to prevent a short because, obviously, the 3rd wire is live while the ignition is on.
You should try the Badlands Load Equalizer. On my bike it was plug-n-play. No cutting, splicing, etc. I had it fully installed in 35 seconds, start to finish. I went out riding yesterday and I don't normally use turn signals but I did on purpose extensively trying to get some hyperflash and red key light. Neither occurred on my bike.