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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 12:25 PM
  #11  
imboden's Avatar
imboden
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I'd believe they could fail too, it takes ALOT of torque to get those things out!
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 01:43 PM
  #12  
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Sounds like you're convinced to go with new bolts, which is the right path. As for your second question, interesting idea about reversing the axle. I don't know of any reason you couldn't, but I have to assume its in as it is for some good engineering reason. Your approach would ease removal of the rear wheel which would expedite tire changes and be a good thing for dealership techs. So I'd want to understand why you can't reverse it before I'd try it. I'd seriously contact the MoCo and ask them - they've been very helpful when I called them on parts issues I've had.

Not sure how different the 03 might be but we recently removed and replace rear wheels on both my 07 Street Bob and my g/f's 00 Lowrider and never pulled either exhaust. We lifted the bikes, pulled the lower shock mounts, and let the wheel drop to where we could slip the axle out beneath the pipes on my 07. On the 00 we yanked the shocks, slipped a Blackjack under the tire, and raised the wheel far enough to get the axle out above the pipes. Not a big deal in either case.
 
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Old Mar 17, 2012 | 10:48 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by imboden
I'd believe they could fail too, it takes ALOT of torque to get those things out!
take notes
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 10:12 AM
  #14  
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ok. I pulled one bolt out to compare with my new bolts, they are the same but chrome. my service manual states loctite and torque to 65lbs. cool. but I found this on harleys web page stating to torque to 23lbs. and then go another 45 degrees. I have never heard anything like this? Here is the link, hope it works.
://www http.harley-davidson.com/en_US/Media/downloads/Service/isheets/-J01673.pdf
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 10:19 AM
  #15  
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incase the link doesnt work....

See Figure 2. After all screws have been tightened to 23
ft-lbs (31.2 Nm), mark a straight line, with a grease pencil,
on all sprocket screw heads continuing the line over onto
the sprocket.
1
is02002
1. Tighten each screw an additional 45 Degrees
after initial torque
Figure 2. Additional Torque Sequence
6. Mark a second line at 45 degrees clockwise from the lines
on the sprocket at each screw.
NOTE
For best results, use Snap-on Torque Angle Gauge TA360 or
equivalent.
7. Using the marks as a guide, and using the tightening
sequence shown in Figure 1, turn each screw an additional
1/8 turn or 45 degrees clockwise.
8. Re-install the rear wheel. See REAR WHEEL INSTALLATION
in the Service Manual.Verify the correct axle alignment
and check belt deflection per Service Manual
 
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Old Mar 29, 2012 | 04:10 PM
  #16  
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p51bombay
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Follow the instructions that come with the fasteners, dealer here goes by what is in the parts going on, if using the original (non chrome) then use the manual's method. Likely will be close to the same anyways.

As far as the axle goes, there's no reason you can't reverse it - mine currently is but I will be changing it back when the wheel comes off next. Depends on what type of pipe you have as to whether it is an advantage or a hindrance. If you have stock or pipes or something with a similar configuration where there is plenty of clearance to get a socket on the nut when it is reversed then it will be good. If you have a 2 into 1 like I do then you will find that if you want to put a torque wrench (and ensuing socket) on the nut when it is on the right side then you will probably find that you can't and you have to loosen (but not remove) the pipe.

Since you would loosen the nut for wheel alignment, belt adjustments, etc much more often than you remove the rear wheel - by reversing it you've actually created more work for yourself instead of less. Look at your setup and decide for yourself.
 
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