Update on Road Glide fairing install on FXDF
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,396
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut :(
There's nothing to see from a photo. The way the OEM audio mount is designed think of a large section of "C" channel about 6" wide. The ears pointing up normally would come close to the underside of the fairing, well mine actually touch in places. The mount has two arms welded to the underside of the "C" channel that a basically right angle sections and these have holes in them and they bolt to the bolts that hold the fairing in place. The holes are excentric allowing you to move the mount up and down so that the stereo head will fit into the opening correctly. The Cyclevision mount has a plate on the inside and the fairing is sandwiched between. This plate is .125" thick so I am thinking next time I have the outer section off I will eliminate it.
Also when I actually have the stereo head I will grind off any excess from the ears that stick up over the head unit.
Bob
Also when I actually have the stereo head I will grind off any excess from the ears that stick up over the head unit.
Bob
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 23
From: Seattle, WA
There's nothing to see from a photo. The way the OEM audio mount is designed think of a large section of "C" channel about 6" wide. The ears pointing up normally would come close to the underside of the fairing, well mine actually touch in places. The mount has two arms welded to the underside of the "C" channel that a basically right angle sections and these have holes in them and they bolt to the bolts that hold the fairing in place. The holes are excentric allowing you to move the mount up and down so that the stereo head will fit into the opening correctly. The Cyclevision mount has a plate on the inside and the fairing is sandwiched between. This plate is .125" thick so I am thinking next time I have the outer section off I will eliminate it.
Also when I actually have the stereo head I will grind off any excess from the ears that stick up over the head unit.
Bob
Also when I actually have the stereo head I will grind off any excess from the ears that stick up over the head unit.
Bob
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-pictures.html
Thought maybe it is what you were referring to ...
When I removed my outer fairing from my 2007 RG I found and took care of some issues. I just want to keep you guys informed so you can check those things when you are working on your bike. I will also mention that this fairing was installed just by "the book".
The first thing I found was that the radio carrier had been rubbing against the outer fairing, both sides.
The radio carrier almost rubbed thru the fairing at one side.
Here you can see the fairing rest upon the radio carrier.
Radio carrier rubbing surfaces.
I reparied the fairing with a tiny string of "Hotmelt glue". I also added 2 small strips of "Sheet metal edge trim" on top of the radio carrier.
Now that issue was fixed and on top of that I found out that my fairing fits even better when mounted.
Next issue is that I have noticed that my headlamp unit has been a little bit loose. I could move it a little bit out and in and from side to side. Sometimes I also could notice a rattling noise from the fairing, especially when the bike "shakes" at idle.
The first thing I did was to "expand" the mounting clips, just a little bit 1,3 mm (0.05") on each side.
I used a warm air gun and a small screwdriver to bend the clip. This will make the clips a little bit wider and they will snap to the fairing a little bit harder. ATTENTION: TAKE IT VERY EASY WITH THE GUN!
When I have did the "clipfix" I contiuned to add one little piece of "window isolation list" at both sides of the headlight unit. The thicknes you will use for the EPDM rubber depends on how far in the fairing the headlight unit is fitted.
This is the type of EPDM rubber I used. I'm sure you have equal stuff in the States.
After these two small fixes, the entire fairing feels a lot more "solid". I also feel good when I found and correct things that the MOCO engineers should have been thinking of.
The first thing I found was that the radio carrier had been rubbing against the outer fairing, both sides.
The radio carrier almost rubbed thru the fairing at one side.
Here you can see the fairing rest upon the radio carrier.
Radio carrier rubbing surfaces.
I reparied the fairing with a tiny string of "Hotmelt glue". I also added 2 small strips of "Sheet metal edge trim" on top of the radio carrier.
Now that issue was fixed and on top of that I found out that my fairing fits even better when mounted.
Next issue is that I have noticed that my headlamp unit has been a little bit loose. I could move it a little bit out and in and from side to side. Sometimes I also could notice a rattling noise from the fairing, especially when the bike "shakes" at idle.
The first thing I did was to "expand" the mounting clips, just a little bit 1,3 mm (0.05") on each side.
I used a warm air gun and a small screwdriver to bend the clip. This will make the clips a little bit wider and they will snap to the fairing a little bit harder. ATTENTION: TAKE IT VERY EASY WITH THE GUN!
When I have did the "clipfix" I contiuned to add one little piece of "window isolation list" at both sides of the headlight unit. The thicknes you will use for the EPDM rubber depends on how far in the fairing the headlight unit is fitted.
This is the type of EPDM rubber I used. I'm sure you have equal stuff in the States.
After these two small fixes, the entire fairing feels a lot more "solid". I also feel good when I found and correct things that the MOCO engineers should have been thinking of.
Todd,
Man you just plain ROCK man! Thank you that is exactly the problem I am having. When I spoke to Mark at Cycle Accessories he suggested after the head unit is installed to trim off the remaining ears that stick up over the unit. He also recommend the same thing that was already recommended and that is to remove the base plate and just use the mount as the inside plate. I'll let you know when the system arrives.
Regarding other photos I will try to post some later. Right now I need to get back to the saddle bags, LED tail lights and new sissy bar mount.
Bob
Man you just plain ROCK man! Thank you that is exactly the problem I am having. When I spoke to Mark at Cycle Accessories he suggested after the head unit is installed to trim off the remaining ears that stick up over the unit. He also recommend the same thing that was already recommended and that is to remove the base plate and just use the mount as the inside plate. I'll let you know when the system arrives.
Regarding other photos I will try to post some later. Right now I need to get back to the saddle bags, LED tail lights and new sissy bar mount.
Bob
Bob
Fairing Info
HYPER I'd like to get some information on your fairing mod. I want to begin collecting the parts needed and would like to ask a few questions. would you mind sending me a pm please? Thanks.
Bob
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I have an 2011 Fat Bob and I am looking at a Road Glide inner faring that has all of the gauges, wire harness and stereo intact. Will the gauges and harness work for this project? would you recommend using them or is it best to not try? Also based on your experience what would be a reasonable price range for these parts? Inner and outer faring with and with out wiring.
I have an 2011 Fat Bob and I am looking at a Road Glide inner faring that has all of the gauges, wire harness and stereo intact. Will the gauges and harness work for this project? would you recommend using them or is it best to not try? Also based on your experience what would be a reasonable price range for these parts? Inner and outer faring with and with out wiring.
The windscreen is a matter of what you like.
I went with the straight crossbar for the lower mount instead of the crash bars. Your handle bars will clear nicely and the front turn signals with a bolt on the inside and a Button head for the back one and you are good to go for the lower mount.
The stereo you are on your own since there are a variety of choices out there. Just stay away from anything with a flip down faceplate because the vibration kills the connections.
Bob