2010 883 Iron Fluids?
2010 883 Iron Fluids?
I posted this same question In the Sporty side, 80 views not one reply. 
Doing a 1000 service on my ladies 2010 883 Iron, wanted to see what type of fluids you fella's are running?
Doing a 1000 service on my ladies 2010 883 Iron, wanted to see what type of fluids you fella's are running?
Here you go man, an entire subforum dedicated to the topic:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/oil-a...ted-topics-30/
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/oil-a...ted-topics-30/
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,658
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From: NorNev
I use Amsoil in the engine and Redline in the Primary/Tranny.
Here's info from Redline:
http://www.redlineoil.com/news_article.aspx?id=49
"WHAT ABOUT SPORTSTERS?
While many here at Red Line have been riding before it was cool (Tim Kerrigan Jr. is an AHDRA Pro Fuel Champion), we were quick to get on the BuellŽ bandwagon, dating back to the late '90s. We like the SportsterŽ style engines and road racing style with an American flare. Technically, some of the engine and specifically transmission tips aren’t focused to this community so we will try to spread a bit of our knowledge here.
Our pals at Hal's Speed Shop in New Berlin, Wisconsin (www.halspa.com) enjoy these bikes, too. Hal's have a lot of experience modifying them for drag racing, road racing, and street bikes, too. They have been a huge technical resource for Red Line over the years and back up our fantastic success with Lightweight ShockProofŽ (which closely replicates the slightly-lighter 80W Motorcycle Gear Oil with ShockProofŽ).
Owners of V-Rods or the liquid-cooled Buells (like the late, great 1126R) need to think about using the right motor oil to keep control heat, clutch wear and slippage, and gear wear. Unlike their traditional V-Twin cousins, these engines use one oil bath of 10W40, important to curtail wear on the small end of the rod and wrist pin.
Rob Schopf from Hal's reminds us that they prepped many 5-speeds in Buells and 883 for road racing, spotting accelerated wear on the main drive gear and the 5th gear on the countershaft. Lightweight ShockProofŽ eliminated this. Rob says, "If the fluid fixed this on the race bikes, it should keep the street-ridden bikes going for quite some time." H-D improved the design when they went to a high-contact/ fine-tooth gear patch on later bikes (versus the older, wide teeth).
Hal's reminds that the biggest performance gains comes from freeing up drag and resistance will free up power—ShockProof gear oils have the lowest coefficient of friction of anything we blend and more than most on the market. It's one step of many details to make sure your bike runs at its best.
The latest Sportster examples (2006-2009) are much improved in the gearbox department, as they no longer puff oil out the breathers. They'd better be, as its hard to check the transmission wear in later bikes—the "trap door" which you used for access is no longer around, so you have to split the cases to see inside. Important note: Red Line does not recommend running V-Twin Transmission Oil or Heavy Shockproof in a Sportster/Buell transmission. Always remember to warm up your bike before draining or changing the gear oil, since that ensures that you get the most complete flush out of the transmission."
Here's info from Redline:
http://www.redlineoil.com/news_article.aspx?id=49
"WHAT ABOUT SPORTSTERS?
While many here at Red Line have been riding before it was cool (Tim Kerrigan Jr. is an AHDRA Pro Fuel Champion), we were quick to get on the BuellŽ bandwagon, dating back to the late '90s. We like the SportsterŽ style engines and road racing style with an American flare. Technically, some of the engine and specifically transmission tips aren’t focused to this community so we will try to spread a bit of our knowledge here.
Our pals at Hal's Speed Shop in New Berlin, Wisconsin (www.halspa.com) enjoy these bikes, too. Hal's have a lot of experience modifying them for drag racing, road racing, and street bikes, too. They have been a huge technical resource for Red Line over the years and back up our fantastic success with Lightweight ShockProofŽ (which closely replicates the slightly-lighter 80W Motorcycle Gear Oil with ShockProofŽ).
Owners of V-Rods or the liquid-cooled Buells (like the late, great 1126R) need to think about using the right motor oil to keep control heat, clutch wear and slippage, and gear wear. Unlike their traditional V-Twin cousins, these engines use one oil bath of 10W40, important to curtail wear on the small end of the rod and wrist pin.
Rob Schopf from Hal's reminds us that they prepped many 5-speeds in Buells and 883 for road racing, spotting accelerated wear on the main drive gear and the 5th gear on the countershaft. Lightweight ShockProofŽ eliminated this. Rob says, "If the fluid fixed this on the race bikes, it should keep the street-ridden bikes going for quite some time." H-D improved the design when they went to a high-contact/ fine-tooth gear patch on later bikes (versus the older, wide teeth).
Hal's reminds that the biggest performance gains comes from freeing up drag and resistance will free up power—ShockProof gear oils have the lowest coefficient of friction of anything we blend and more than most on the market. It's one step of many details to make sure your bike runs at its best.
The latest Sportster examples (2006-2009) are much improved in the gearbox department, as they no longer puff oil out the breathers. They'd better be, as its hard to check the transmission wear in later bikes—the "trap door" which you used for access is no longer around, so you have to split the cases to see inside. Important note: Red Line does not recommend running V-Twin Transmission Oil or Heavy Shockproof in a Sportster/Buell transmission. Always remember to warm up your bike before draining or changing the gear oil, since that ensures that you get the most complete flush out of the transmission."
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