Help guys - forward/mid controls
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Redmond, OR
I'm 5'7" with a 30" inseam and I went to a combination of the reduced reach forwards, 2" lower shocks and a Corbin "Close" Solo Saddle. Perfect fit. It wasn't inexpensive but the fit is what I wanted. I prefer the forward controls over mids.
All of the "Bob" models seem to have a longer than usual reach for the forward controls. They are also possibly wider than what you've been riding which requires a little more forward seating position to compensate for the wider stance in the seating position.
I'd suggest starting with the reduced reach kit because a comfortable reach to the shifter and brakes is essential for safety. They don't install as easily as the product description implies. They possibly require the loosening / removal of the exhaust pipes to get the brake control rod to fit properly. The actual control mount adapters go on easily.
The lower shocks were necessary for me to "flatfoot" at the stops, no tiptoes. The lower shocks some side effects; 1) making the bike sit up straighter than usual so you have to lean it to the right slightly to get off the jiffy stand. (They also have a shorter jiffy stand available but I've found it unnecessary for the last couple of bikes) 2) they require superior dampening ability to keep from bottoming out. I chose 10" Progressive 430's because they can be easily adjusted (no wrench necessary).
The "close" seat sits you 2" closer to the tank so you have less reach to the shifter and brakes. I know Corbin makes a close seat available in just about all of their seats if you request it. Other manufacturers can probably accommodate it for a fee. The Corbins are worth every $$$ they cost but the seat is the most important link in the comfort zone if you're going for a ride of more than 100 miles between stops.
I saw that there are several comments regarding the "back problems" with forwards. I'll have to agree with that but I also replaced the stock drag bars with T-bars that have 8" rise and 4" additional pull back. This allows me to attain the proper vertical seating posture that releives the stress on my back. I've made these same changes on the last two bikes I've owned in order to make them as comfy as possible. My usual day ride is 200-400 miles so I've had a lot of time, observation and evaluation to determine what's necessary for me to be comfortable for the duration of the ride.
There are some pretty significant challenges for the shorter rider in the "Bob" series of bikes, but they are the best looking bigger bike.
All of the "Bob" models seem to have a longer than usual reach for the forward controls. They are also possibly wider than what you've been riding which requires a little more forward seating position to compensate for the wider stance in the seating position.
I'd suggest starting with the reduced reach kit because a comfortable reach to the shifter and brakes is essential for safety. They don't install as easily as the product description implies. They possibly require the loosening / removal of the exhaust pipes to get the brake control rod to fit properly. The actual control mount adapters go on easily.
The lower shocks were necessary for me to "flatfoot" at the stops, no tiptoes. The lower shocks some side effects; 1) making the bike sit up straighter than usual so you have to lean it to the right slightly to get off the jiffy stand. (They also have a shorter jiffy stand available but I've found it unnecessary for the last couple of bikes) 2) they require superior dampening ability to keep from bottoming out. I chose 10" Progressive 430's because they can be easily adjusted (no wrench necessary).
The "close" seat sits you 2" closer to the tank so you have less reach to the shifter and brakes. I know Corbin makes a close seat available in just about all of their seats if you request it. Other manufacturers can probably accommodate it for a fee. The Corbins are worth every $$$ they cost but the seat is the most important link in the comfort zone if you're going for a ride of more than 100 miles between stops.
I saw that there are several comments regarding the "back problems" with forwards. I'll have to agree with that but I also replaced the stock drag bars with T-bars that have 8" rise and 4" additional pull back. This allows me to attain the proper vertical seating posture that releives the stress on my back. I've made these same changes on the last two bikes I've owned in order to make them as comfy as possible. My usual day ride is 200-400 miles so I've had a lot of time, observation and evaluation to determine what's necessary for me to be comfortable for the duration of the ride.
There are some pretty significant challenges for the shorter rider in the "Bob" series of bikes, but they are the best looking bigger bike.
Last edited by bessee; Nov 14, 2015 at 11:06 PM. Reason: additional thoughts
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
You posted a question to a Thread that is 3 1/2 years old, that particular person probably does not hang here much anymore, although a few of the others involved in the Thread are still around.
Anyway, this may help:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...-mids-mod.html
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 71
Mids are good but once you ride with floorboards its best of both worlds ...at least for me. Nothing like riding trying to keep your boot on measley footpeg...no thanks
Last edited by nick@nite; Nov 15, 2015 at 12:16 PM. Reason: Spelling
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 71
I'm 5'7" with a 30" inseam and I went to a combination of the reduced reach forwards, 2" lower shocks and a Corbin "Close" Solo Saddle. Perfect fit. It wasn't inexpensive but the fit is what I wanted. I prefer the forward controls over mids.
All of the "Bob" models seem to have a longer than usual reach for the forward controls. They are also possibly wider than what you've been riding which requires a little more forward seating position to compensate for the wider stance in the seating position.
I'd suggest starting with the reduced reach kit because a comfortable reach to the shifter and brakes is essential for safety. They don't install as easily as the product description implies. They possibly require the loosening / removal of the exhaust pipes to get the brake control rod to fit properly. The actual control mount adapters go on easily.
The lower shocks were necessary for me to "flatfoot" at the stops, no tiptoes. The lower shocks some side effects; 1) making the bike sit up straighter than usual so you have to lean it to the right slightly to get off the jiffy stand. (They also have a shorter jiffy stand available but I've found it unnecessary for the last couple of bikes) 2) they require superior dampening ability to keep from bottoming out. I chose 10" Progressive 430's because they can be easily adjusted (no wrench necessary).
The "close" seat sits you 2" closer to the tank so you have less reach to the shifter and brakes. I know Corbin makes a close seat available in just about all of their seats if you request it. Other manufacturers can probably accommodate it for a fee. The Corbins are worth every $$$ they cost but the seat is the most important link in the comfort zone if you're going for a ride of more than 100 miles between stops.
I saw that there are several comments regarding the "back problems" with forwards. I'll have to agree with that but I also replaced the stock drag bars with T-bars that have 8" rise and 4" additional pull back. This allows me to attain the proper vertical seating posture that releives the stress on my back. I've made these same changes on the last two bikes I've owned in order to make them as comfy as possible. My usual day ride is 200-400 miles so I've had a lot of time, observation and evaluation to determine what's necessary for me to be comfortable for the duration of the ride.
There are some pretty significant challenges for the shorter rider in the "Bob" series of bikes, but they are the best looking bigger bike.
All of the "Bob" models seem to have a longer than usual reach for the forward controls. They are also possibly wider than what you've been riding which requires a little more forward seating position to compensate for the wider stance in the seating position.
I'd suggest starting with the reduced reach kit because a comfortable reach to the shifter and brakes is essential for safety. They don't install as easily as the product description implies. They possibly require the loosening / removal of the exhaust pipes to get the brake control rod to fit properly. The actual control mount adapters go on easily.
The lower shocks were necessary for me to "flatfoot" at the stops, no tiptoes. The lower shocks some side effects; 1) making the bike sit up straighter than usual so you have to lean it to the right slightly to get off the jiffy stand. (They also have a shorter jiffy stand available but I've found it unnecessary for the last couple of bikes) 2) they require superior dampening ability to keep from bottoming out. I chose 10" Progressive 430's because they can be easily adjusted (no wrench necessary).
The "close" seat sits you 2" closer to the tank so you have less reach to the shifter and brakes. I know Corbin makes a close seat available in just about all of their seats if you request it. Other manufacturers can probably accommodate it for a fee. The Corbins are worth every $$$ they cost but the seat is the most important link in the comfort zone if you're going for a ride of more than 100 miles between stops.
I saw that there are several comments regarding the "back problems" with forwards. I'll have to agree with that but I also replaced the stock drag bars with T-bars that have 8" rise and 4" additional pull back. This allows me to attain the proper vertical seating posture that releives the stress on my back. I've made these same changes on the last two bikes I've owned in order to make them as comfy as possible. My usual day ride is 200-400 miles so I've had a lot of time, observation and evaluation to determine what's necessary for me to be comfortable for the duration of the ride.
There are some pretty significant challenges for the shorter rider in the "Bob" series of bikes, but they are the best looking bigger bike.
Tourer
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 362
Likes: 3
From: on Earth
I have just replaced my mid control with a forward control - it is amazing to run long straight line but if you want to mess around with tight u turns o turns or figure 8 then stick with the mid controls.
If you are doing straight line long ride then the forward control is amazing and it looks good makes you feel bad ***
If you are worried you cant reach the forward controls do what my wife does she got reduced forward controls on her bike as well as push foward seat to help her reach the peddles but she's 5'7
If you are doing straight line long ride then the forward control is amazing and it looks good makes you feel bad ***
If you are worried you cant reach the forward controls do what my wife does she got reduced forward controls on her bike as well as push foward seat to help her reach the peddles but she's 5'7
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 24
From: Minden LA
5'4" and I went with mid controls and two way adjustable hwy pegs (adjusted to the closest position).
I do notice that when using my hwy pegs at slab speeds+, I am only able to leave them there for a short while. The wind blast effects their comfort for me. Having an extra place to move around (mids), and the fact that mids provide better control of the bike IMHO, made my setup the right one for me.
However, everyone has their own preference. Good luck, you'll know when you get the right combo.
I do notice that when using my hwy pegs at slab speeds+, I am only able to leave them there for a short while. The wind blast effects their comfort for me. Having an extra place to move around (mids), and the fact that mids provide better control of the bike IMHO, made my setup the right one for me.
However, everyone has their own preference. Good luck, you'll know when you get the right combo.
Stage II
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: New york
Just had the puf in my 883xl
They reduce kit works but got to tweak it a bit. For some resaon the brake pedal comes back too far needing it a bit more forward. Constantly have to pick my leg up to get on the brake.
So, I finally purchased an '06 Street Bob! I need some guidance and suggestions though on a
ouple of things. The man that owned it before me was like 6'5 and I cannot even reach his extended reach forward controls. I'm 5'6, a bit closer to 5'7 with boots on. I don't see a lot of women riders in general around here, so I'm not sure if it's a height issue or a man/woman thing. I grew up on dirtbikes and feel comfortable with mid controls. I am not opposed to using forward controls if I could reach them. My brother is a mechanic and said he would either move the controls to mid position, or he can add the reduced reach forward control pieces. So, I am torn and not sure what would be a better choice. The reduced reach forward controls are about $180. I think relocating the controls from forward to mid would be more expensive maybe $300 or $400. Any advice is majorly appreciated! xxoo -Danielle
ouple of things. The man that owned it before me was like 6'5 and I cannot even reach his extended reach forward controls. I'm 5'6, a bit closer to 5'7 with boots on. I don't see a lot of women riders in general around here, so I'm not sure if it's a height issue or a man/woman thing. I grew up on dirtbikes and feel comfortable with mid controls. I am not opposed to using forward controls if I could reach them. My brother is a mechanic and said he would either move the controls to mid position, or he can add the reduced reach forward control pieces. So, I am torn and not sure what would be a better choice. The reduced reach forward controls are about $180. I think relocating the controls from forward to mid would be more expensive maybe $300 or $400. Any advice is majorly appreciated! xxoo -Danielle
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: North of Hell, South of Heaven
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Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: Redmond, OR
H-D Reduced Reach conversion.....
I've got a 2008 FXDF. The original owner was 6'+ and had installed the "Tall Man" seat. The bike was a bitch riding it home. I could barely touch my toes at stoplights.
I'm 5'7" tall with a 30" inseam I could barely reach the brake and had to stretch for the shifter. This obviously wasn't going to work. I'd already researched the Reduced Reach Kit. It was a fairly straight forward install, BUT, you have to remove, or at least disconnect, the exhaust system probably in order to connect the brake rod. No problem since I was installing a new exhaust system anyway. It made the bike rideable for me but I still couldn't flat foot the bike at a stop. I fixed that with a Corbin Hollywood Solo Close and a set of 2" shorter Progressive 430's and a Progressive 2" Fork Lowering Kit. Now it rides like it was built for a 5'7" rider. It'll play hell with the next 6'2" rider, but hey,....I don't plan on selling it anyway!
I'm 5'7" tall with a 30" inseam I could barely reach the brake and had to stretch for the shifter. This obviously wasn't going to work. I'd already researched the Reduced Reach Kit. It was a fairly straight forward install, BUT, you have to remove, or at least disconnect, the exhaust system probably in order to connect the brake rod. No problem since I was installing a new exhaust system anyway. It made the bike rideable for me but I still couldn't flat foot the bike at a stop. I fixed that with a Corbin Hollywood Solo Close and a set of 2" shorter Progressive 430's and a Progressive 2" Fork Lowering Kit. Now it rides like it was built for a 5'7" rider. It'll play hell with the next 6'2" rider, but hey,....I don't plan on selling it anyway!
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