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Old May 15, 2012 | 07:51 PM
  #1  
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Default Fork problem

Yesterday I finally got around to installing the intiminators I've had for a month. Right side went with no problem. Left side is problem.
While tightening the cap it stopped dead with maybe .25" to go...seeing maybe two threads. Threads on the cap and in the slider look fine and I can screw the cap in by hand all the way home without the spring. I noticed this side cap came loose a lot sooner then did the other side when it was under pressure from the spring. Thought that was odd because the right side went all the way to the full release of the spring.
Drain hole was plugged for some reason on this left side too. I put a 22ga wire and dislodged whatever was blocking the hole. Figuring it was some kind of debris, I washed the innards out with mineral spirits. The damper tube and spring were making a racket when I was shaking-in the spirit bath.

Could the damper&spring have come out of whack when I was shaking the spirit cleaner around in there and that is the reason for the cap stopping .25" short of home? I'm a little leary of taking the thing apart until I know what to look for.

Also found this side has a oil-seal leak at the slider assembly. (Showa brand lowers installed by PO) Replace just the seal, right?

Thanks for any help....I'll know better next time.
 
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Old May 16, 2012 | 07:30 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by Austin Dave
Yesterday I finally got around to installing the intiminators I've had for a month. Right side went with no problem. Left side is problem.
While tightening the cap it stopped dead with maybe .25" to go...seeing maybe two threads. Threads on the cap and in the slider look fine and I can screw the cap in by hand all the way home without the spring. I noticed this side cap came loose a lot sooner then did the other side when it was under pressure from the spring. Thought that was odd because the right side went all the way to the full release of the spring.
Drain hole was plugged for some reason on this left side too. I put a 22ga wire and dislodged whatever was blocking the hole. Figuring it was some kind of debris, I washed the innards out with mineral spirits. The damper tube and spring were making a racket when I was shaking-in the spirit bath.

Could the damper&spring have come out of whack when I was shaking the spirit cleaner around in there and that is the reason for the cap stopping .25" short of home? I'm a little leary of taking the thing apart until I know what to look for.

Also found this side has a oil-seal leak at the slider assembly. (Showa brand lowers installed by PO) Replace just the seal, right?

Thanks for any help....I'll know better next time.
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doesn't make sense if the cap seats without the spring.

gotta be something real simple

intiminators do add about 5/8"

are you saying the lowers are aftermarket??

as for the seal - I would completely disassemble forks

replace seals bushings everything
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Old May 16, 2012 | 09:01 AM
  #3  
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Austin Dave
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Yes, aftermarket Showa brand shiny aluminum (maybe), not painted OE lower type. I let the fork drain overnight and have the slider cover, dustcap and ring off, but the damper screw is stopping progress. 1/4" allan wrench is too big and a 7/64" is too loose. What size is that allan-screw head? SM recommends using a impact wrench to loosen the bolt, so I need to find the right size allen socket that is 2" long, right? Gotta get that screw out.

Is this correct: damper has a small spring at the bottom and that damper/spring assembly is fixed into position by the bottom screw? If that is so, then there is something broke inside the assembly because when the fork is turned upside down I hear what sounds like a spring bouncing.

(attached pic is my version of dipstick. 169mm cut-line made with tubing cutter....black line previous version. will pretty it up if it goes into production)
 
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Old May 16, 2012 | 06:40 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Austin Dave
Yes, aftermarket Showa brand shiny aluminum (maybe), not painted OE lower type. I let the fork drain overnight and have the slider cover, dustcap and ring off, but the damper screw is stopping progress. 1/4" allan wrench is too big and a 7/64" is too loose. What size is that allan-screw head? SM recommends using a impact wrench to loosen the bolt, so I need to find the right size allen socket that is 2" long, right? Gotta get that screw out.

Is this correct: damper has a small spring at the bottom and that damper/spring assembly is fixed into position by the bottom screw? If that is so, then there is something broke inside the assembly because when the fork is turned upside down I hear what sounds like a spring bouncing.

(attached pic is my version of dipstick. 169mm cut-line made with tubing cutter....black line previous version. will pretty it up if it goes into production)
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get it apart and inspect carefully.

probably be real obvious when you do get it apart.

you do want the spring loaded when loosening the damper screw. put the caps on.

the showa equipment will be metric. 7 or 9 I think??

that damper bolt can be very stubborn.......
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Old May 16, 2012 | 07:47 PM
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Instead of spending a bunch of time hunting for that hex-socket, I took the fork to my local indy. He took the screw out and checked everything out and said everything looked fine. Neither he nor the other shop guy could understand why the cap became so hard the last few threads and recommended to just muscle past it. So, I did. It eased up after about one complete turn and then went home easy. That still bothers me some, but 3 sets of eyes saw the inner threads as being good. I installed a new oil-seal using the old one to drive the new one home with a 2" pvc slider. If it doesn't leak and the cap doesn't pop off, I'll leave it be. If either happens I'm replacing that slider.
Anyway I'll put the wheel and caliper on tomorrow. Then go for a ride and see how the Intiminators change the ride/suspension feel.
Found a long 6mm 3/8"D hex-socket at Lowes. All they carry are the ball-end type, but I'll cut that off before I use it.
Thanks for the advice, I appreciate the help.
 
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