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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Fuel moto are great people to work with. I'd go with that. As for the 1 hp per cubic inch....find me one dyno sheet for a 2007 and up 96" making 96 hp.
I put my parts together over a summer for a winter build 2 years ago.
Ported/polished heads with 10 thousands over valves, lift lift springs and a few other tricks...cost me $1050
88 inch to 95 inch jugs, 10.25 to 1 domed pistons
Fueling Reaper .574 cams
Fueling Race Roller Lifters
30 thousands over push rods
Stock head pipes with Rush cans and BCT Baffles
SE Heavy Breather
SE Super Tuner
I think Timkem cam bearings....New and an upgrade anyhow
Stock oil pump, cam plate
HD tech that put it together took it for a ride this year after bars and what not.....Claims it will pull the front wheel and he thinks it would take his 103 FB with big bucks in the motor.
Should get it Dyno'ed this next winter.
Tech who put it together say it should be an easy 105 plus HP.
I would call Fueling and have a chat about their cams. .574 comes on at around 1800 and is still going hard up to 6200 RPM's as I recall. It was one of the few cams that covered the full range...Low, mid and high end.
I put my parts together over a summer for a winter build 2 years ago.
Ported/polished heads with 10 thousands over valves, lift lift springs and a few other tricks...cost me $1050
88 inch to 95 inch jugs, 10.25 to 1 domed pistons
Fueling Reaper .574 cams
Fueling Race Roller Lifters
30 thousands over push rods
Stock head pipes with Rush cans and BCT Baffles
SE Heavy Breather
SE Super Tuner
I think Timkem cam bearings....New and an upgrade anyhow
Stock oil pump, cam plate
HD tech that put it together took it for a ride this year after bars and what not.....Claims it will pull the front wheel and he thinks it would take his 103 FB with big bucks in the motor.
Should get it Dyno'ed this next winter.
Tech who put it together say it should be an easy 105 plus HP.
I would call Fueling and have a chat about their cams. .574 comes on at around 1800 and is still going hard up to 6200 RPM's as I recall. It was one of the few cams that covered the full range...Low, mid and high end.
Karsten
Sounds like a solid platform without an outrageous budget, I will definately be calling fuel moto and fueling for some cam comparison.
Steve-O that's a good looking graph, anymore info on the particulars of the build?
2010 FatBob............will be 2 years old on July 3rd
96cu.in, with SE259e cams some special head work done by me and friend.
Steve O adds a key point to this. Head work. I get your hesitation with doing a big bore, but without headwork, you are leaving a lot if power on the table.
Figure a larger TB too or will the stock one work fine? Injectors? How do the cranks hold up in the 96'ers? Bike only has 1800 miles on it so I'm hoping run out should still be tight.
TT forum sponsor Joe @ Powder Pro (JRK5892) regarding his port & polish of his TB. I believe he got an extra 4hp / 5 tq after dyno.
Last edited by GREENOHAWK69; Jun 25, 2012 at 01:49 PM.
Reason: typo on tq - from 15 to 5.
Just posting this for reference of my 96" with just a stage one, RSD Air Cleaner, V&H 2 into 2, screaming eagle pro super tuner. Dyno tuned by Twin Cities Harley Davidson. Only reason I post is someone above was saying show me a 96" with 96HP, I know I am not at 96hp but I am only a stage one. I believe you could easily get 96hp with some work. I know these numbers are not perfect and might be high but good luck with the build and keep us posted.
Prior to going to 107", I had a Woods TW-7H cam with a 4 degree advance gear installed and dyno tuned, Heavy Breather intake and Rinehart 2 into one exhaust at the time, chart attached.
I am a firm believer, that volumetric efficiency is what you have to have, this will give you better performance and longevity in a motor. It is one reason I did not go with bigger jugs and pistons. More mass and more weight, does not always make for a faster motor.
A good set up 96cu.in. motor will out perform a 103-107cu.in stockish motor all day long. Although as I say, it has to be set up properly........
Using the right cam for what you are looking to achieve is important, Porting and polishing heads is essential for breathing, getting the air/fuel ratio in and out of the combustion chamber the fastest. Otherwise your bike will run like it is asthmatic.
Shaving the heads is an important part of doing the heads to increase compression ratio without adding weight with redesigned pistons.....
Going with a larger Throttle Body and larger injectors is not always the best idea, after all you have to burn all that extra fuel efficiently.
Yes, you should change the clutch spring.
On mine I added a 30 tooth pulley and a 70 tooth pulley on the rear after I had dyno'd the bike, to give me more torque (Stump Puller) tractor pull feel.
Yes I am going to port and polish the stock Throttle Body myself to see what performance I can get from it. I do not believe a larger one is necessary, as I do not plan on racing this bike at the track.......
People have to decide if they want pulling power (torque), or if they want horsepower. With a lot of builds, people build them to the point were the bikes are a lot harder to ride normally, then how they were designed to ride. That is the decision the owner/rider/builder has to make on their own......
Ps: I am shooting for the 110 hp range out of a 96cu.in motor
Last edited by SteveO-ll; Jun 23, 2012 at 06:00 AM.
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