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So I've read plenty of the cam threads, the hp builds, the torque monsters, etc. and all have shed some light on the way I plan to take the bike (07 super glide). More or less looking for opinions and mainly experiences from those who have made an honest and reliable 95+ hp from their 96" motor. I would love to see 105+ ft/lbs as well. I do not plan to let my bike turn into an overly powered less than reliable piece of equipment, my diesel addiction has led me down that road already. And although a fun road it may be, it can get old and expensive, very fast. So my list of supporting mods at this time are as follows:
1) Johnson Engine Tech. intake ( on bike)
2) Thunderheader ( going on tomorrow)
3) PC V or similar tuner, most likely the PC V. Heard some good things on the TTS as well.
4) Andrews AP 50 cams as recommended by my bud who owns a local bike shop
5) Fueling oil pump and cam plate
6) 30 tooth pulley from Andrews as well
I know a bump in compression would help out with the cams, so coming from the factory 9.2(?) what would it take to reach the 9.5-9.8 range? Decked heads and thinner hg? I will be keeping the stock heads, and have a porter who could clean up the castings and what not down the road if I so choose, for now I'd like to put the money elsewhere. Want to be able to fill up at the pump and just roll out, not worrying if my ***** going to take a dump and leave me stranded.
I don't think you need the pump and cam plate. For the cost of that thing you could do a 106/107 kit with new jugs that would be just as reliable as stock since no boring is required.
I don't think you need the pump and cam plate. For the cost of that thing you could do a 106/107 kit with new jugs that would be just as reliable as stock since no boring is required.
That's what I'm lookin for man, thanks. The pump and plate were recommended but not an absolute mandatory upgrade. Figured the plate would be more beneficial of the two, larger oiling ports, billet construction, less flex than the cast stocker at higher rpm. A 107" doesn't sound too bad really, I just did not really feel like tearing the motor down.
That's what I'm lookin for man, thanks. The pump and plate were recommended but not an absolute mandatory upgrade. Figured the plate would be more beneficial of the two, larger oiling ports, billet construction, less flex than the cast stocker at higher rpm. A 107" doesn't sound too bad really, I just did not really feel like tearing the motor down.
Don't the new motors have the billet cam plate? Or is that just the SE upgrade for the old TC88? Either way, tons of guys here running big bore, headwork, and big cams all with the stock oil pump and plate.
I would like to do the S&S 106" kit but $1100 is more than i want to spend ($750 for piston/jugs $350 for cams) i can get a S.E. 103" kit for $650 HP/TQ numbers are basically the same. tearing down the motor scared me at first, but after getting some info and watching a few videos on it peice of cake now.
Don't the new motors have the billet cam plate? Or is that just the SE upgrade for the old TC88? Either way, tons of guys here running big bore, headwork, and big cams all with the stock oil pump and plate.
Wait, you run a billet oil pump....?
109hp sounds damn stout, I would be more than happy with anything near that!
Not too worried about the actual process of tear down for fear of not knowing, just dont feel like getting in that deep at the moment.
don't be a fool, your chasing unicorns...build a real fawking motor. Call Dewey, fuel moto, hildreth, hillside or someone else whom builds proven motors. Or just get your dyno guy to print you whatever you'd like.
Wait, you run a billet oil pump....?
109hp sounds damn stout, I would be more than happy with anything near that!
Not too worried about the actual process of tear down for fear of not knowing, just dont feel like getting in that deep at the moment.
Lol, I do run a billet pump, but I had the TC88 which had the shitty old chain tensioners. When I went to gear drive with my build there was too much wear in the old pump to run it, also the pump on the 88" had a way lower flow than yours.
Yeah, it definitely hauls now. For reference, my jugs are bored and my buddy's shop who did it has motors with 70k plus miles on them with the same bore.
Boring your jugs will save you cash and if you don't go crazy it is reliable. Look at fuelmoto, they are pretty popular around here for their 107" builds.
If you want a good bolt in cam for low end grunt, look at a S&S 551, you will notice a big difference with that and just the other mods you have done.
I would like to do the S&S 106" kit but $1100 is more than i want to spend ($750 for piston/jugs $350 for cams) i can get a S.E. 103" kit for $650 HP/TQ numbers are basically the same. tearing down the motor scared me at first, but after getting some info and watching a few videos on it peice of cake now.
don't be a fool, your chasing unicorns...build a real fawking motor. Call Dewey, fuel moto, hildreth, hillside or someone else whom builds proven motors. Or just get your dyno guy to print you whatever you'd like.
Chasing unicorns? For 1hp per cube? Get real man, it aint no pipe dream. And a chubbed up dyno number doesnt mean **** to me, honest hp at the tire does. I'm not against building a "real" motor, but I'm just not too big on dropping $3k+ at the moment for 95+hp.
The 107" could be the way to go. Figure a larger TB too or will the stock one work fine? Injectors? How do the cranks hold up in the 96'ers? Bike only has 1800 miles on it so I'm hoping run out should still be tight.
On edit, I just checked fuel moto's site... that 107" kit is dirt cheap considering what all is included. That might be the cheapest route after all, and I planned on the PC V from them anyway.
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