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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 03:32 PM
  #11  
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strongwood
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Originally Posted by RicMF
No I did not. I went with the boltcutter/SE Adjustable pushrod route, and they come with shorter lower pushrod tubes and longer clips (and all the o-rings).

Definitely saved me a lot of hours, but I don't think I would hesitate to pull the rockers and reuse the pushrods if I were doing it again. I didn't want to mess with removing my tank, was the biggest thing.
I don't understand why folks spend the extra hundred + bucks on the adjustable push rods.
Pulling the tank is two bolts, unhook the fuel line from the petcock ( so far a clean job) then the cross over hose. Some hemostats are a good method of preventing a gasoline spill while unhooking the crossover

All that is required to pull the stock ones and reuse is pulling the tank, taking off the valve covers (not the rocker boxes) and then the 4 bolts for the rocker arms.

This whole job described above only took an additional15-20 minutes.

I had my cams out a couple months ago and it was the first time I had opened my motor for any reason. I saved the money and prevented the opportunity for the adjustable to possibly come loose at some future point.

Not flaming anyone, just truly curious

By the way, Beautiful paint job!!
 

Last edited by strongwood; Jul 10, 2012 at 03:35 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 05:14 PM
  #12  
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07bobber
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Originally Posted by strongwood
I don't understand why folks spend the extra hundred + bucks on the adjustable push rods.
Pulling the tank is two bolts, unhook the fuel line from the petcock ( so far a clean job) then the cross over hose. Some hemostats are a good method of preventing a gasoline spill while unhooking the crossover

All that is required to pull the stock ones and reuse is pulling the tank, taking off the valve covers (not the rocker boxes) and then the 4 bolts for the rocker arms.

This whole job described above only took an additional15-20 minutes.

I had my cams out a couple months ago and it was the first time I had opened my motor for any reason. I saved the money and prevented the opportunity for the adjustable to possibly come loose at some future point.

Not flaming anyone, just truly curious

By the way, Beautiful paint job!!
i kinda felt the same way but if you have a lot of miles its wise to replace a lot of old parts with new parts and if you plan on building it later you can use the adjustable push rods with the beefier cams im guessing
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 05:27 PM
  #13  
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RicMF
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Originally Posted by strongwood
I don't understand why folks spend the extra hundred + bucks on the adjustable push rods.
Pulling the tank is two bolts, unhook the fuel line from the petcock ( so far a clean job) then the cross over hose. Some hemostats are a good method of preventing a gasoline spill while unhooking the crossover

All that is required to pull the stock ones and reuse is pulling the tank, taking off the valve covers (not the rocker boxes) and then the 4 bolts for the rocker arms.

This whole job described above only took an additional15-20 minutes.

I had my cams out a couple months ago and it was the first time I had opened my motor for any reason. I saved the money and prevented the opportunity for the adjustable to possibly come loose at some future point.

Not flaming anyone, just truly curious

By the way, Beautiful paint job!!

You're not wrong. Which is why I said I wouldn't hesitate to do it that way if I were doing it again. I went with the adjustable pushrods simply because it *seemed* like it eliminated a lot of unrelated work that I just didn't have to mess with, and since this was my first venture into my motor I wanted the highest possible chance of having my bike back on the road in a short amount of time (summers here are only so long!).

And the pushrods didn't cost that much, compared to a scratch in my fuel tank. Thanks for the compliment btw.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 05:33 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Redbeard
So would you say the 583s are a good choice for a "cam only" upgrade? (stock heads/compression/displacement)
I would say so. The bike is noticeably stronger in the lower-mid to upper-mid RPMs, which is what I was looking for. I'm certainly not a cam expert, I just studied as much info as I could find. This cam should work well in my otherwise-stock motor, but also allow for some gains with some mild headwork later on.

But I'm still struggling with my TTS to get a decent tune put on it, and with the first canned map I flashed it was pretty bad. I'll update more when I can evaluate it in a tuned motor.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 06:33 PM
  #15  
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Tat2u
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Good work mate, sounds like you had it planned out nice!

re-using the stock push rods of course also depends on the base circle of the new cams, if they are the same as stock cams fine but if not, you might need the adjustment that the adjustables allow.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 06:56 PM
  #16  
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bikerlaw
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Outstanding thread. Thanks for posting. Between you and the other replies, people like me can gather great information and apply it to our bikes.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2012 | 07:47 PM
  #17  
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strongwood
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Originally Posted by RicMF
You're not wrong. Which is why I said I wouldn't hesitate to do it that way if I were doing it again. I went with the adjustable pushrods simply because it *seemed* like it eliminated a lot of unrelated work that I just didn't have to mess with, and since this was my first venture into my motor I wanted the highest possible chance of having my bike back on the road in a short amount of time (summers here are only so long!).

And the push rods didn't cost that much, compared to a scratch in my fuel tank. Thanks for the compliment btw.
Yeah, I sometimes forget I have a garage and table lift so some things are easier for me to get to.

I totally understand going the route that would get your bike back in service quickly. I am pretty **** about that too

When I did mine, I had it part of the way taken apart doing other things this spring just before riding season.

For what it is worth, I hear "phantom" noises ever since I went into the cam area. I am sure they were always there ( or I am hearing things) but just because I cracked it open, I am a little crazy about it. It has now been over 2K since I did it so it must be right.

I have been a mechanic for over 40 years and am pretty good, however anytime I work on something for the first time, I get nervous.
you did a stellar job.....more than many on this board can do so hold your head high.

Regarding the paint, I would like to "pilfer" your idea with the flames, I have a set of tins being painted now. They are a dark cherry red and I wanted to put some brighter red with it. yours are perfect....Do you mind

Impressive
 

Last edited by strongwood; Jul 10, 2012 at 07:50 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 09:49 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by strongwood
For what it is worth, I hear "phantom" noises ever since I went into the cam area. I am sure they were always there ( or I am hearing things) but just because I cracked it open, I am a little crazy about it. It has now been over 2K since I did it so it must be right.
I know exactly what you mean. I *swear* my valvetrain is noisier now than it was before, and maybe it actually is a tad bit, but it was noisy before and I'm sure it's pretty much the same now. The bike wouldn't run as well as it does if I had done anything *too* wrong.

Regarding the paint, I would like to "pilfer" your idea with the flames, I have a set of tins being painted now. They are a dark cherry red and I wanted to put some brighter red with it. yours are perfect....Do you mind
Sure. I don't hold a copyright on flames.

 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 11:03 AM
  #19  
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Woz10
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Nice work - maybe a future upgrade for my Switchback!
 
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Old Jul 11, 2012 | 12:23 PM
  #20  
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Interested to see how your tunning goes. Seriously considering cams myself but I am thinking it might be hard to get a good base map to start with. I got Powervision, which is similar to your TTS as far as data logging and tunning runs but I would want to be in the ballpark before I started tunning.
 
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