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I'm no Gear Head. And just barely consider myself a mechanic. So I'll try to explain the best I know how. Sure, using this method "clutchless" is only considered for raceing. And not good for your transmission. But I was told that using this method "with the clutch" is actually better for the transmission.
1) Yes this makes shifting gears faster. But because there is less delay, the clutch gears and the engine gears stay closer to being synchronized. So, less wear?
2) Greatly reduces the chances of screwing up a shift and / or missing the shift or grinding the gears. Since your not really moving your foot anymore ( just maintaining slight upward pressure on the peg ), all you have to do is slight roll off and on with the throttle with a slight squeeze of the clutch at the same time. And the transmission shifts almost like an automatic. So, no more accidental grinding or missed shifts = less wear?
But, atleast for the WG, all this may be a mute point anyway. Because since I've reverted back to shifting "old School", she seems to like it better.
The technique is used for clutchless shifts and can be effective on the rare occasion(s) it's needed. Caution! You only need to screw up one time and you're buying a new, and very expensive, transmission. All so you can get to the Bar 1/100th of a second faster than your buddy.
It's also a great way to bend shift forks. While you are putting pressure on the lever, it is loading the linkage that turns the shift drum that is now trying to move the fork and make a gear change, but the gear won't change because of the load against the dogs on the gears.
When the throttle chops, the load disappears and the fork moves the gear. Now if everyone thinks they can put the right amount of load against the shifter that won't hurt the shift forks, but enough that will make a change, then I have some beach front property in Glades County for sale.
I have accumulated over 55,000 miles on two different bikes using this method ( Suzuki M50 and Vulcan Mean Streak ). Did all the maintenance myself on 5000 mile intervals. Never had any clutch / trany issues. And Never had a bad shift under any riding condition.
Now if everyone thinks they can put the right amount of load against the shifter that won't hurt the shift forks, but enough that will make a change, then I have some beach front property in Glades County for sale.
So, are you sayin that the shift forks can not be damaged by to much pressure by using standard shifting procedures?
I have accumulated over 55,000 miles on two different bikes using this method ( Suzuki M50 and Vulcan Mean Streak ). Did all the maintenance myself on 5000 mile intervals. Never had any clutch / trany issues. And Never had a bad shift under any riding condition.
Great response. Did you know this was a HARLEY forum?
next topic will be is there a better way to stop rather than using the brakes..maybe a chute..or an anchor perhaps? what about downshifting to first at any speed and just letting the drivetrain slow you down?
and just to be another opinion in this topic. These transmissions are fully synchronized, while clutchless upshifts aren't obviously the moco's recommended way of shifting, you're not gonna scatter your trans on the freeway doing so. If I'm getting down a little I'll do em, roll off the throttle a tiny bit, snick the shifter up and roll back on. Most times you won't even hear the gear change..but I'm relatively decent at it..hence the screenname : ) I've used this method from time to time on everything from my first yz80, CR500's, jap sportbikes and just about every era H-D 4,5 and 6 speed transmissions from the knucklehead forward. live to ride, ride to starbucks.
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