Progressive drop in fork lowering kit -'06 FXDB -Opinions
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Douglasville, GA
UPDATE/ INSTALLED-Progressive drop in fork lowering kit -'06 FXDB
Just ordered the Progressive 10-2002 drop-in fork lowering kit for my Street Bob and was wondering what folks (that have this kit installed) think about it both good and bad. I've read that the ride will be stiffer. Also, anyone know what size the large top fork tube bolt head is for my bike ? I plan to stop and pick up a socket to fit it on my way home from work and the bike is at home. I measured it and it looked like 1 3/8" but I don't think that's a standard size. All answers and opinions appreciated.
8/21/12- Installed last night, fairly easy but had to borrow an 1 3/8" socket for the fork tube cap (who has this in their "home" tool kit?). I opted to only lower 1 1/4" so the pvc spacer ended up being 1 1/2" instead of 1" as the directions call for (for a 2" drop). The front is stiffer but not so stiff as to be an issue, I rode several familiar areas that are somewhat rough to give it a decent test and overall I'm pleased with the results. The rear of the bike had already been lowered an inch so this pretty much leveled it out and it looks better and feels great.
8/21/12- Installed last night, fairly easy but had to borrow an 1 3/8" socket for the fork tube cap (who has this in their "home" tool kit?). I opted to only lower 1 1/4" so the pvc spacer ended up being 1 1/2" instead of 1" as the directions call for (for a 2" drop). The front is stiffer but not so stiff as to be an issue, I rode several familiar areas that are somewhat rough to give it a decent test and overall I'm pleased with the results. The rear of the bike had already been lowered an inch so this pretty much leveled it out and it looks better and feels great.
Last edited by BobZ06; Aug 21, 2012 at 03:07 PM. Reason: updating information
Devil's Advocate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 36
From: Alberta, Canada
I put the Progressive drop in front springs in and lowered the front between 1 1/2" to 2".
The more you lower it, the stiffer it gets.
I ordered the proper socket from Direct Harley Parts (it has an O ring inside that protects the top of the nuts). I believe it is 1 3/8" but I would have to check when I get home from work.
Make sure you cover the chrome nut with masking tape so that you do not mark it. Also, cover your tank and hold onto that nut tightly, they have a lot of tension on them and they will fly
if you are not careful!
It takes a bit to get use to how stiff it made the front, at first it was scarey going around corners and hitting bumps.
The more you lower it, the stiffer it gets.
I ordered the proper socket from Direct Harley Parts (it has an O ring inside that protects the top of the nuts). I believe it is 1 3/8" but I would have to check when I get home from work.
Make sure you cover the chrome nut with masking tape so that you do not mark it. Also, cover your tank and hold onto that nut tightly, they have a lot of tension on them and they will fly
if you are not careful!It takes a bit to get use to how stiff it made the front, at first it was scarey going around corners and hitting bumps.
1 3/8 fits, but it's not SNUG..... Just be careful not to strip it, or go order it from harley like above.
Like the ol' saying goes "If it was easy, everyone would do it...." Be careful taking the cap off the forks, you can EASILY hurt yourself. and the same goes for loading them back up.... might be easier for you since the springs are shorter, but i shot the tube up and scraped off 1/2 of my Panhead tattoo and got a lil blood in my fork oil. hah
Make sure you get ALL the air out of the forks before you snug them up.. it's not all that complicated, but don't take the nut off the bottom to drain it, that's for the Dampner rod at the bottom.... and you'll get in over your head if you start messing with that stuff.
PM me if you have any questions, I just rebuilt my front end.
Like the ol' saying goes "If it was easy, everyone would do it...." Be careful taking the cap off the forks, you can EASILY hurt yourself. and the same goes for loading them back up.... might be easier for you since the springs are shorter, but i shot the tube up and scraped off 1/2 of my Panhead tattoo and got a lil blood in my fork oil. hah
Make sure you get ALL the air out of the forks before you snug them up.. it's not all that complicated, but don't take the nut off the bottom to drain it, that's for the Dampner rod at the bottom.... and you'll get in over your head if you start messing with that stuff.
PM me if you have any questions, I just rebuilt my front end.
Oh..... and I'm sure you don't want to pull your forks like I did, heh, but if you are for whatever reason removing them , I used the upper as a safety. I dropped the tube to the top of the bottom of the tripple, and put the wrench over that and took it off so when it popped the upper tripple stopped everything from shooting up in the air and killing a bird. 
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Douglasville, GA
Thanks for the replies. Got an 1 3/8" socket from Sears and it does fit. I'll be sure to use some masking tape on the nut to protect it. The kit's supposed to be here sometime next week, I'll let everyone know how it goes.
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Devil's Advocate
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 36
From: Alberta, Canada
Right on, it is not that difficult. My fork oil was still pink so I opted not to change it at this time.
Make sure you check the level according to the manual. I made a dipstick out of a zip tie. I cut off the zip, slid it down onto the tie, made a mark with a permanent marker at the desired length and rested the zip up against the top of the fork tube in the appropriate place. Worked great and was easy to make. Gives you a consistent level check for both forks.
When I change the oil I will be going with the HD heavy fork oil. It may be excessive and make it stiffer though. We will see once the springs are broken in.
Make sure you check the level according to the manual. I made a dipstick out of a zip tie. I cut off the zip, slid it down onto the tie, made a mark with a permanent marker at the desired length and rested the zip up against the top of the fork tube in the appropriate place. Worked great and was easy to make. Gives you a consistent level check for both forks.
When I change the oil I will be going with the HD heavy fork oil. It may be excessive and make it stiffer though. We will see once the springs are broken in.
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