Electrical issue. Help!
Could be an 1156 bulb (single filament) in an 1157 (dual filament) socket. An 1156 Bulb will bridge the two terminals in an 1157 socket. This will cause all sorts of havoc depending on how the motorcycle (or car) is wired. This is technically called a "Short to Power" problem.
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Disconnect the Battery Ground (-) Cable at the Battery . . . VERY important to do this first (it's the Black one) . . . then attach an Ohmmeter between either Bake Light Wire and the disconnected Battery Ground (-) Cable. Press on the Brake Pedal . . . if the Ohmmeter reading changes, and the likely change is that it will go to zero or nearly zero . . . you have a Short to Ground somewhere in the Brake Light Circuit.
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Disconnect the Battery Ground (-) Cable at the Battery . . . VERY important to do this first (it's the Black one) . . . then attach an Ohmmeter between either Bake Light Wire and the disconnected Battery Ground (-) Cable. Press on the Brake Pedal . . . if the Ohmmeter reading changes, and the likely change is that it will go to zero or nearly zero . . . you have a Short to Ground somewhere in the Brake Light Circuit.

I mentined earlier, Does the fuse blow when you grab the brake "lever"? This may tell you if the problem is in the foot switch system. Or in the lighting harness itself. One trick I use for troubleshooting AC electrical system shorts is to wire in a lightbuld next to or in place of the fuse. On the old fuse panels, all you had to do was screw one in. With the new blade type fuse holders, all you would need is a 12 volt lamp w/socket, a couple of wires and a couple of male spade wire connectors. Make up your test lamp and plug it into the fuse holder. When the short is created, the lightbulb will be lit. When you find the short, the lightbulb will go out. There will be no smoke. And very little sparking and arcing.
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