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FYI you can order a Harley Davidson stock 30T pulley from a trike. That's what I put on my FXDB. Cost me like $65 if I remember correctly. Less than half of what the aftermarket companies are charging.
I left the stock belt, but it was close to the end of the usable range of adjustment. If I had to do it again I'd get a belt with 1 less tooth.
I had to adjust the speedo with my TTS Mastertune. IIRC the setting was 2271...
I went with the TriGlide Pulley and 37871-98A spring. Fortunately I saw the following info before I bought the SE spring. At 320 lbs/ft the 98A is already a handful with the arthritis in my hands, but it gives a nice crisp lock-up (not mushy like the stock spring). Now if it would just stop freaking RAINING!!
37882-06 blue dot (117 KgF/258 lbs/ft) 2006-88", 2007 thru 2010-96"
37871-04 yellow dot (135 KgF/ 298 lbs/ft) 2004-05 88" and 2010 Limited
37871-98A (145 KgF/ 320 lbs/ft) 1998-2003 Most recommended on forum for touring
37807-03 pink dot (165 KgF/ 364 lbs/ft) 2007 thru 2010-103 "Police"
37951-98 (175 KgF/ 386 lbs/ft) Current SE
I changed out my 32T to the Andrews 30T last month. I also changed the rear from a 66T to a 70T ( I think its from a 2006 bob). The difference on the speedo is minimal if you change both. Also, can run the stock belt. The rear pulley is slightly wider but no issues with running the stock belt.
I had my indy change out the pulleys. It was a bitch. Had to heat and tried an impact wrench, and broke the first tool and he had to make another to fit behind the pulley to get it to come free, along with a big cheater bar. Also, after you take off the stock pulley, compare it to the Andrews, stock is heavy.
I also had done a 107" build from Fuelmoto and had them send over the Barnett racing clutch. The pull was way to hard, and everyone agreed. I switched back to stock and have no problems with slipping even with the 107". So I would not change the clutch plate unless your having issues.
All done, and I am running it at rpm much higher compared to stock based on gear selection and speed and much more enjoyable. I wish I would have done the pulley switch before the motor build so could see what affected the power the most. But the bike is still very rideable.
Thought I would post up my parts and tool list for those who might be considering this mod. There are different options available as others have mentioned with the 30T pulley choice.
I will update this list as I continue to buy everything needed.
Parts
Andrews 30 T Transmission Pulley: # 290306 $118 Amazon
Barnett Heavy Duty Clutch Spring: # 502-00-01008 $34 ebay
Transmission Sprocket nut: $10 HD#35241-06
I'll get this in case the breaker bar does not work and I have to cut the nut off.
Crankcase gasket(has the 2 dowels): $14 HD#34934-06
Compensating Sprocket bolt: $6 HD#3368
Starter Housing O-ring: $4 HD#27444-00Y
Tools
Big Torque Wrench, CDI 1/2" 30-250 ft-lbs: $ 118 Amazon The biggest torque I see in the procedures is 140 ft-lbs.
Big Breaker Bar, 3/4" Tekton 40" long and a 3/4" F to 1/2"M adapter: $64 Amazon
If you have a nice electric impact wrench, you can skip the breaker bar.
Transmission Sprocket locking tool: $66 ebay
2 1/4" Mainshaft Sprocket wrench: $73 ebay
Primary Drive locking bar: $15 ebay
Belt Tension gauge: $25 ebay
All these prices include shipping. Obviously, a lot of you may already have some of the tools and some of them will be useful for other mods.
Last edited by HD Pilot; May 30, 2013 at 09:44 PM.
Reason: Update list
I had a rigid pipe about that long and it did not do the trick. Just sayin' be prepared for a plan "B" ... luckly my neighbor across the street had a pneumatic impact.
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