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Andrews 30T Pulley Install

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Old May 30, 2013 | 08:13 AM
  #21  
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I ended up cutting the sprocket nut off. They don't make a breaker bar big enough to move that nut.
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 08:21 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by JimmieJack
I had a rigid pipe about that long and it did not do the trick. Just sayin' be prepared for a plan "B" ... luckly my neighbor across the street had a pneumatic impact.

BTW - love the 30T gearing.

Jimbo
HOGRIDA_06 I ended up cutting the sprocket nut off. They don't make a breaker bar big enough to move that nut.
Looks like I found my Plan "B"! Going to the HD Dealership today, I'll add that nut to my shopping list. Thanks!
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 11:07 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DonN
I also changed the rear from a 66T to a 70T ( I think its from a 2006 bob). The difference on the speedo is minimal if you change both.
Are you sure? I changed both and my speedo is waaay off. Like 15mph faster
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 11:48 AM
  #24  
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I had a hell of a time with the sprocket nut. I tried 4 different air wrenches, 2 electric impact wrenches, and several different breaker bars with 4' cheater, and heat. When I was in the boutique getting some parts I talked with the tech and he said to just stay on it with the impact wrench (I was only hitting it for 10 to 15 seconds at a time). Mine came loose after about 45 seconds of continuous hammering with a cordless electric impact wrench.

Easy to re-cal the speedo with PV.

Good Luck!
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 08:47 PM
  #25  
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If the nut doesn't come loose, drill a hole in the nut and split it with a cold steel chisel. Pulley will slide right off

 
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 11:14 AM
  #26  
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Don't know if I have the where-with-all to tackle this kind of job, but I will be following your thread closely if only for 'educational' purposes. Thumbs up to you!
~
 
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 12:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by O-Town D
Don't know if I have the where-with-all to tackle this kind of job, but I will be following your thread closely if only for 'educational' purposes. Thumbs up to you!
~
Thanks O-Town D, to be honest, when I first started reading about this mod I thought it looked pretty straight forward but when I read the procedure I found out that I was floating around in a number of areas in the SM. On top of that I realized I still have a lot of holes in my tool inventory. Some of the new tools will be nice to have but some I doubt I'll use much at all after this mod.

Anyway, I think I have everything I need except the sprocket nut in case my big breaker bar fails me. My dealer did not have it on hand but ordered it for me. $10 nut that I hope to hand back to HD.

Plan on doing mod June 13-14, have a pack of days off, so should be able to not worry about being rushed and can post more.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2013 | 12:25 PM
  #28  
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With the cost of the tools it may be the same price to have it done....by a pro...I know, not as satisfying
 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 10:33 AM
  #29  
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Install starts. Went for a quick ride to warm up primary fluid and then came back and removed derby cover. I wanted to see where the primary fluid came up to so I would be more comfortable refilling - HD SM gives you a range of 32 oz "wet" to 40 oz "dry". I think after this mod is done, I will be closer to the 40 oz "dry". Anyway the fluid level came up to touch the bottom of the clutch spring.

 
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 11:18 AM
  #30  
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Primary chaincase cover removed - messy ordeal.

First thing I have noticed is my primary drive locking tool is too short. I bought the 5.95" size, does anybody know the right length for my 2012 Fat Bob? Can make my own or may just do the rag in the chain trick.

On to remove the starter.

 
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