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'13 Dyna 103" best cams to install

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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 05:54 PM
  #21  
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vdop
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Originally Posted by ! rock103 !
Care to elaborate?
Very short cam. 18* intake close is 12* earlier than stock, will build a lot of heat and have a very early, short power band. Should make decent torque right off the bottom then fall on it's face quick. That's no fun in a dyna imo.

Originally Posted by hell hound
if you want SE cams i would go for 204. To me i don't care about the left 1/3 of the chart, power is the most fun and most felt mid to high.

To me the best bang for your buck with a new stock bike would be changin the gearing, then cam only with a good tune
Agree with all that.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 05:54 PM
  #22  
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speedkills66
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Originally Posted by vdop
Wow, that's awfully impressive considering I wouldn't think it would run at all with NO cams. Seriously, those numbers seem pretty happy. What correction factor? Do you have a sheet you can show?
{see attached picture}* (and now I see it's 84.46hp, not 85)

Originally Posted by vdop
Also, you can't compare what someone else's made for power with a completely different setup on a different dyno in different conditions.
Well then there's never any point in bringing up dyno numbers at all because in almost all cases the conditions you state won't be met.
But because our bikes (mine and SquidHead) are similar in setup - Both are 103ci Dynas, both have free breathing a/c and both have 2>1 exhaust - there is a valid comparison, even if it's rough and not identical.



And now back to the regularly scheduled thread...
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 05:58 PM
  #23  
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Pretty much the best stage 1 numbers ever and all only done in 3 runs? Not trying to be a dick, just saying those numbers are not at all the norm, and don't count out cams as a nice upgrade just because your bikes are making similar numbers.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 06:26 PM
  #24  
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! rock103 !
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Originally Posted by vdop
Very short cam. 18* intake close is 12* earlier than stock, will build a lot of heat and have a very early, short power band. Should make decent torque right off the bottom then fall on it's face quick. That's no fun in a dyna imo.
Thanks for your info...I am considering cams as well. Don't know that I will be able to afford them within the next year. But planning now..
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 06:35 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by vdop
Pretty much the best stage 1 numbers ever and all only done in 3 runs? Not trying to be a dick, just saying those numbers are not at all the norm, and don't count out cams as a nice upgrade just because your bikes are making similar numbers.
If you're talking to me then I'm not counting cams out by any means - I'm putting them off til some future date and using my money elsewhere in the meantime.
I came to this thread because I had the same question as the OP - what's a good mild cam that will give me some bang for my buck?
If I get a good deal I'll jump on it. Until then I'm satisfied with what I have.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 07:04 PM
  #26  
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Here is a dyno sheet of my 2010 stage 1 96" fatboy tuned and untuned. The 103" makes generally 4-5 hp/tq more across the rev range. The gain from cams is more significant when added to a stage 1 then a stock to stage 1 for comparison. So if your asking if cams are a worth while investment and you like the sound of a loping idle with a gain of at least 10hp and 10ft/lbs which equates to $100.00 per hp and ft/lb? My answer is unequivocally YES. Dollar per hp/tq cams pay dividends.
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 07:10 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by dozerdogue
Here is a dyno sheet of my 2010 stage 1 96" fatboy tuned and untuned. The 103" makes generally 4-5 hp/tq more across the rev range. The gain from cams is more significant when added to a stage 1 then a stock to stage 1 for comparison. So if your asking if cams are a worth while investment and you like the sound of a loping idle with a gain of at least 10hp and 10ft/lbs which equates to $100.00 per hp and ft/lb? My answer is unequivocally YES. Dollar per hp/tq cams pay dividends.
Ok that's an answer that speaks to me.
So...
Back to the original question then:
"what would be the best cams to install, with out doing head work, and without giving too much reliability away, for added torque and horsepower".
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 07:27 PM
  #28  
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Woods Tw-222
Andrews 48H
SE 204
 
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Old Mar 2, 2014 | 11:54 PM
  #29  
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Andrews TW37 if it where my scoot.

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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 02:25 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 13Dyna103
OK, this will be my first post. Hoping to get a lot of different responses, and I'm fairly sure I will. I have a 2013 Street Bob with a stock 103", Thunderheader, SE Heavy Breather intake, I'm currently running the Cobra fi2000 with auto tune but will probably go with a SE Super tuner so I can tune it myself, that I haven't decided. But my question is what would be the best cams to install, with out doing head work, and without giving too much reliability away, for added torque and horsepower for all three rpm ranges, low mid and high? I'm an aggressive rider, and open the throttle at every opportunity. I'd like to feel all the power this bike has to offer, because I don't think I am currently, don't get me wrong, it will snap your neck, but I just think a lot more is available with the right set of cams. So your best opinions will be appreciated. And thanks for the help in advance.
As you've already seen there are a ton of opinions out there when it comes to Cams so here is mine. I was referred to Fire Breathing Industries and spoke with Drew who is by all references from most of the Harley shops and many of the Chopper shops, The Man. His recommendation, and BTW he did not sell me the parts but rather referred me to buy them, was Dave Mackie 575L cams, SEPRT, Stage one AC (which I already had) Andrews 30T, and the Bassani RRII. This was after a discussion on my riding style which I would say is a cross between cruise and aggressive. I am very pleased. The Dyno, which I lost was something like 89HP and 103FT and that is with the Canister connected. The power comes on almost off idle and pulls hard through to Red Line. It will flat out roast the Dunlap at will. My plans are to next do some porting work and perhaps a step up with the FI. Here in California you cannot buy the SEPRT so you will need order it from out of state.
Bob
 
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