I know HOW to adjust the shocks, but I've read different threads and reviews and get conflicting info so I'm kind of combining them all and calling people out.

So short story long, I ordered a pair of Dyna take-off shocks to experiment with epoxy paint. I figured if I botched it, they were $50 so whatever. Paint came out good, no problem. I've bottomed out really hard and realized I never adjusted them, so I adjusted them to what I thought was the firmest setting, then I bottomed out just as bad, maybe worse the next day.

When reading these "how to" threads, there's a lot of misinformation. Some say 1 is the softest (meaning what?, softest cushiest ride, or softest spring setting) and 5 is the hardest (again meaning hardest stiffest more uncomfortable ride, or the shock is at it's stiffest and ready to suck up bumps?). Some say the other way around, some don't know what 1 or 5 is and one person said you actually can't go from 5 to 1 or 1 to 5. I thought the loud CLUNK when you turn a few times was jumping from 5 to 1 (or 1 to 5) when the spring unloads. Some say the spring totally wound down absorbs better because it's ready to unload, some say fully extended because it's already sitting higher.

In conclusion, what is the setting that would absorb bumps/potholes the best? And define what you mean when you answer. Don't just say "5" or "1". How did you get to 1 or 5, is it just before the big clunk, just after, somewhere in the middle?

There's also a giant part of me that wonders if these shocks are garbage and that's why I got them for $50...

 

If you turn the shock counter clockwise, till it stops, that is position 1, softest setting. According to owners manual, Pos. 1 165 lbs or less, Pos 2 165-195 lbs, Pos 3 195-225 lbs. Pos 4 225-255 lbs, Pos. 5 255 to max weight. Add weight of rider, passenger and cargo and set accordingly.

 

That's how I always understood it. People are nutty...there's some whacky explanations and ideas about how it works. I guess I'm fine then, still kind of curious why I slammed my teeth on both 1 and 5 though, oh well. Thanks man.

Let this thread die!

 

Dyan shocks suck no matter what you set them at.
2 up we bottom no matter what.
The softest setting is more of a soft ride takes less weight to have the shock to give.
The hardest setting takes more weight to get the shock to give.
I have tried several of the Dyna shocks. All of them bottom out 2 up.
it does not take a big hole for them to bottom either.
We went to progressive, lower cost but a big improvement.

 

You slammed your teeth on both settings because the stock shocks are a POS. The softest setting on your shocks allows more travel (which is miminal on any oem Dyna) which should mean a softer ride. The higher the setting the more the spring is compressed. More spring compression = less travel = harsher ride

Solution: Get better shocks

 

The basic functions of a shock absorber are:

1. Spring compressive strength and pre-load

2. Compression dampening

3. Rebound dampening

The stock H-D shocks feature a standard spring with only pre-load adjustment. There is no rebound or compression dampening.

The spring rate is the "strength" of the spring, how easily it compresses. A pre-load adjuster is an adjuster, such as the stock H-D adjuster, that can "tighten-up" or "loosen-up" the spring. It does this by compressing or relaxing the spring in the shock.

If the pre-load is increased and the spring tightened, the shock will tend to stay extended better and provide a higher ride height with less "sag" and thus taking advantage of the full stroke of the shock while resisting "bottoming out."

In many cases the increased pre-load will make the shock "harder" and "tighter." However, if a shock is set with too little pre-load and it sags down excessively on the totally travel, it will tend to bottom out too easily and seem more harsh than a shock set with greater pre-load.

Setting proper pre-load normally requires setting your "sag." Websearch this and you'll read more. Basically, you measure the bike's shock extension - unloaded with wheel off ground, unloaded with wheel on ground and loaded with rider and wheel on ground.

You don't want the shock to squat too much and use up all its travel with you just sitting on the bike. You calculate it based on shock travel. No more than an inch or so of sag is what I shoot for.

The other major features of a shock that determine ride quality are compression and rebound dampening. Inside the shock there is fluid that provides resistance to the shock compressing and rebounding from its compression.

Good shocks have adjusters for one or both of these. The dampening adjusters work with the spring rates. Higher compression dampening provides a "harder" shock and prevents it from bottoming out too easily. Less compression dampening eases it up and makes a more supple ride.

Higher rebound dampening keeps the rear end settled down and stable, especially in curves etc. It prevent a pogo effect. Too high a rebound, however, can cause the shock to "pack down" on multiple bumps or washboard roads. The shock doesn't have time to rebound before absorbing the next shock and you end up working it at the bottom of the shock travel with poor absorption and a rough ride.

Too little rebound will cause the bike to bounce too much and create an unstable rear end during sporty riding. It can also cause rough rides on rough roads as the shock too easily snaps back and hits the extension stops.

Lol, sounds complicated? Takes a little time to get it right but it's not that difficult.

Back to the stock shocks. All you can do is adjust the spring pre-load so you don't have much control.

If you want a better ride, look at aftermarket shocks. I like the Ohlins 159 but anything is better than the stock. The 159 has spring pre-load and rebound but no compression dampening. It's a good practical shock that wont break your bank account. Most people don't need super-expensive shocks with remote pre-load adjusters and all the dampening *****.

Also, get shocks with greater length. About 13 inches is good on a Dyna. This gives greater shock travel normally and better ground clearance.

If you want the slammed, low look your ride quality will suffer.