Good to hear you're on the right track with eliminating the popping. Another 5 or 10% might be the ticket.

 

Sadly in the quick tune section you can reduce a max of 25%. So I am now trying to remember my math for doing it in the Decel table. It was at .14 and I set it to .56 which is 25% less fuel. If I did my math correctly lol.

 

I wasn't aware that there were adjustment limits. I'm new to using the PV & the tune for my bike was spot on, so I haven't had to make any adjustments. I haven't had my PV long enough to have even run a tank of fuel through the bike because work keeps me out of the saddle. Hopefully soon I'll be able to get enough time to log some miles with the Auto Tune function & fine tune it a little bit more (if it's even needed).

 

The VE table adjustments that auto tune does is a good idea to do. Will tighten up the tune for your bike. I got all the limits figured out I would much rather have my map fully set then have to use any of the quick tune stuff. So far I have 99.9% of the decel pop gone. A few more minor tweaks this weekend and I should have it all square by Monday.

 

Finally got the sweet spot with my tune. Decel pop is 100% eliminated and the bike gets up and moves now. Have a minor issue with heat in low KPA but will be looking at fixing that today by adding just a little more fuel in the lower areas and idle.

A HUGE shout out to Jamie from FuelMoto. Every time I had a question on my tune he was right there to answer them and made sure I did not screw it up lol. Learned a ton about how the PV works and how to tune in WinPV. Got a bit more in touch with how the AFR, VE, Decel, Warmup, and spark tables all mesh and play together. Deff not a tuning pro yet but am more comfortable making changes on my own.

A few reviews on parts I put on my scoot.

Exhaust: Python Throwbacks - A very nice/loud set of pipes. The heat wrapping that came on them is a little thin and the pipes can get VERY hot at times. You may want to re wrap them with better wrap if it becomes an issue. Good quality pipe in itself however.

AC: AN Big Sucker Stage II SS Black - This bad boy is HUGE! 7" round and it does stick out a bit. The back plate is nice and the mounting hardware is very clean. This bad boy will supply enough air to any cam or head you want to toss at it. The only way to get more air would be a larger TB and most applications dont call for this.

Tuner: DynoJet Power Vision - This thing is simply amazing. An all in one tuner/logger/monitor. I have a set of gauges set on this thing strictly for tuning. I can in real time view my KPA, IAT, EAT, and Spark for both front and rear jugs independently. If all this wasnt enough they toss in Auto Tune and quick Tune! The quick tune has helped me out HUGE. I was able to determine how much fuel I needed to remove from my Decel table with this feature, without it I would have been guessing for a while or paying some big $ for a pro to look at it. The Auto Tune really gets you the best tune for your riding style. Once your AFR and everything is set for a good performing bike you auto tune for about 100 miles and it just gets better.

 

Good write up, PV looks like the way to go. Lots of positive reviews...

 

Hi,

Well done man,

Will you setup different tunes on the PV to flash depending on riding scenario?

Like cruising for fuel economy, street riding, lower grade fuel issues

And you mention autotune and quick tune is that just the PV1 or is it the autotune kit you have to buy?

Thanks
Mirrmu

 

You dont really need to tune for any other riding conditions. However if I was going on a very long road trip that was mainly high way I might re auto tune but no need for a full new map. Programming for different grades of fuel (Pump) is un needed. Now if I was going to run 110 or something I would need a bit more work in the AFR and Spark tables to accommodate for the added octane.

Basically you get a good tune on how fuel and air delivery are going to work and when the bike is going to fire to light it off. Then after that you Auto Tune for your VE for your riding style. This is included for ALL PV now with the latest firmware. You have Auto Tune Basic (For use with stock o2 sensors) then you have Auto Tune Pro (For the Auto Tune Pro adapter with wide band o2 sensors you can get from DynoJet). Quick Tune is also available on all PV. This does have its limits such as fuel you can only go +25% or -25% on any portion and cant really see what its doing. Spark you can only do 5 degrees either adv or ret. If you want it dialed in then you can do what I did and find what % things are working well at then do the math in WinPV and fine tune your tables and not use quick tune. Quick tune is also where you can set your idle, RPM limit, Thermal Management(If your bike has it), spedo calibration, and a few other tweaks.

I have the PV2 since I am running a 2013. 2012-2013 Dyna need the PV2. However I have heard the only difference in the 2 units is the connector for the bike that you can just buy if you have a PV1. Smart move on DynoJets part for those who have a PV1 and buy a new bike. All they would need to do is buy a new licence and cable for like $200 and have their PV available for their new ride.

 

Hi,
Thanks heaps
Mirrmu

 

You no longer need a computer for basic auto tune with the powervision.
--> enable auto tune - ride - eport learned values to a powervision slot - load new map from said slot and ride again!

Just drop a line to Jamie and he will tweak your map for the popping. also alot of that will go away on it's own when the carbon begins to build up in those pipes.

Side note; JMO 4 more cubes will not yield that much extra power, however your existing pistons may not have the clearance for hi-lift cams

Sweet looking pipes fo shua!