electrical help!!!!
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3rd Gear
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7
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From: shippensburg
electrical help!!!!
I have a 2007 wide glide, original battery went dead week or 2 ago. got new one from auto parts store. I opted for the little bit more powerful better one. when I installed it I instantly noticed better starting and idling. a week or 2 after it was in, I got gas and few min later it started spitting and sputtering at low rpm. thought I had bad gas used seafoam ran fine again for a week plus new tank of fuel then did it again. throwing code b1007 for overvoltage. I just checked all wires and connections they were good. but I noticed on the washer on new battery bolt that there are some burn marks like it was arcing. when I first put new battery in I used old bolt n washer and when it sputtered the first time it melted the lock washer to bolt but I didn't think much of it. could it be new battery, that is to powerful? its nothing fancy 310cca. idk but its driving me crazy, makes me a lil nervous when it starts acting up. your help is appreciated thanks...
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
The voltage regular rectifies the ~30-40 vac from the stator/rotor to a ripple dc voltage and the battery acts like a big capacitor to the electrical system by filtering out the big spikes and ripple voltage coming from the voltage regulator. The VR cannot work correctly if the battery connections are loose or corroded. This erratic system voltage can cause the over voltage codes and sputtering and erratically low RPM you are experiencing. Also, if your voltage regulator is developing a thermal issue and intermittently failing or the voltage regulator connections are loose or corroded, you might be getting an intermittent over voltage situation as well.
Along with the above suggestions, and because you checked and cannot positively rule out the problem as loose connections after you replaced the battery, I would strongly advise you to check the voltage at your battery posts with the engine running...should be ~13.5-14.5 vdc.
Along with the above suggestions, and because you checked and cannot positively rule out the problem as loose connections after you replaced the battery, I would strongly advise you to check the voltage at your battery posts with the engine running...should be ~13.5-14.5 vdc.
Last edited by skinman13; Aug 4, 2013 at 10:40 AM.
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LOSER
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 5,719
Likes: 4
From: Williamston, NC
The voltage regular rectifies the ~30-40 vac from the stator/rotor to a ripple dc voltage and the battery acts like a big capacitor to the electrical system by filtering out the big spikes and ripple voltage coming from the voltage regulator. The VR cannot work correctly if the battery connections are loose or corroded. This erratic system voltage can cause the over voltage codes and sputtering and erratically low RPM you are experiencing. Also, if your voltage regulator is developing a thermal issue and intermittently failing or the voltage regulator connections are loose or corroded, you might be getting an intermittent over voltage situation as well.
Along with the above suggestions, and because you checked and cannot positively rule out the problem as loose connections after you replaced the battery, I would strongly advise you to check the voltage at your battery posts with the engine running...should be ~13.5-14.5 vdc.
Along with the above suggestions, and because you checked and cannot positively rule out the problem as loose connections after you replaced the battery, I would strongly advise you to check the voltage at your battery posts with the engine running...should be ~13.5-14.5 vdc.
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