Hey Folks, I just bought a 2010 Wide Glide and it didn't come with an owners manual. Could someone fill me in on how much oil the engine, primary and trans hold,(96 TC w/ 6 sp.) and what weight oil I'll need. I'm in North Texas and we are looking at 90-100 degree temps. I've got a manual on the way but this oil needs to be changed NOW !!!
Also, when checking the oil, do I need to screw in the dip stick or not ? I've been told to check it both ways.
Any help is appreciated.

 

3 Qts for the crank
1 Qt for the Trans
1 Qt for the Primary
Screw in the dip stick.

Oil Weight 20w/50

 

What he said

 

Yeah screw in the oil dipstick, the trans dipstick rests on top of the hole don't screw it in to check the level. The engine takes three quarts, but be on the safe side and put in two and a half, run the engine and check it. You don't want to overfill the crankcase. The chaincase takes exactly one quart and the trans a little less than a quart. Again be on the safe side and put in 28 ounces and run and check. A word to the wise, use Mobil 1 20/50 in the engine and Mobil 1 75w90 in the trans and use a good regular motor oil 10w40 in the chaincase one that is for wetclutches and you will save yourself a lot of trouble IMHO. Congrats and enjoy the glide.

 

What Jeff said plus I will add that I use the above with the 10W40 being Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W40. All is available at Wally World and it keeps all of it as Mobil1 Products. Acording to the tehnical staff at Exxon/Mobil, this combination provides excellent results although 20W50 can be used in all 3 holes if desired to use only one weight.

If you continue with this thread you will see the proverbial deceased equestrian become pulp.

 

What they said .
Any oil is way better then no oil .

 

Thanx Guys ! I got this bike from a rebuilder and it has a ticking noise (kinda like a lifter tick in a car engine) when it warms up. I haven't been riding it much because of this. The oil is full (with the dipstick plug screwed in) but dirty and I wasn't sure if the oil could be low. The odometer is showing 11500 miles, so I didn't think anything was worn out. Its 50+ miles to a H-D dealer and my local mechanic must be on vacation, so I guess I'll change the oil and wash and wax it till I can find him.
I love the way the bike looks and that 96 TC pulls like a locomotive !!! I'm not sure if I like the EFI yet cuz usually by now I would have changed pipes and air cleaner, but with having to figure out what I'll have to do to the computer (and the $$$ I'll have to spend) Those changes will have to wait.
Again thanks for the help ! I hope to be able to repay the favor someday.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2010-Harley-...259108&vxp=mtr

 

Just one thing here, when you add oil to the crank, it only takes 2.5 quarts. If you dump 3 quarts in there it will come bleeding out the breathers and into your air cleaner as soon as you boot down the road. Nothing dangerous but 3 quarts is just wasted oil. If your in texas go synthetic 20 w 50 as it tends to break down less in high heat ranges. Plus its good for all three holes.
No offence Austin Dave but that is a link for an owner's manual which an HDealer should be able to give him free, i think he will need the shop manual.

 

Exactly! Right on the money.

According to the shop manual:

OIL - 2.5 quarts for a wet capacity refill - add more if necessary

PRIMARY CHAINCASE - 1 quart wet capacity refill

TRANSMISSION - 1 quart

Some helpful hints: replace your o rings if they are chewed up. They're cheap. Don't overtighten anything - especially the oil filter (screw it on til the gasket makes contact, then 1/4 turn or so). I got a hint from this forum that when you go to fill the primary, stand the bike up with a 2X4 under the stand so the bike sits more upright, but don't let it fall over!

When you go to take the oil filter off this info will help you - Take a 1 or 2 liter coke bottle, cut the end off, then cut one side off of it. What you're aiming for is something that looks like a big scoop. Leave the lid on it. Break the oil filter loose with a filter wrench. It helps if you use the HD filter wrench. It has a cutout in it so you won't hit the crankshaft position sensor. DO NOT hit this sensor. Don't even touch it if you can keep from it. (it is a round plastic sensor on the side of the motor, to the right of the oil filter) You can use one of those filter wrenches with the sides cut out and it will work fine - just don't hit the sensor. I have found it is helpful to loosen the voltage regulator and drop it out of the way before I take the filter off. It is on the front of the frame to the left of the filter. You don't want oil getting on it, and it is 2 bolts to get it out of the way. OK, once you get the oil filter broke loose with the tool, take that bottle scoop you made and slip it under the filter all the way to where it mounts to the motor. Once the filter comes loose, drop it into your scoop. The scoop catches the oil so it doesn't go all over everything, and you don't have to spend an extra 30 minutes cleaning it off. If you make your own "scoop", you just saved $25! That's how much HD charges for theirs.

The type of oil is completely up to you. You can ask 10 different people and get 10 different answers. I use the HD synthetic 20W-50 in all 3 holes. That's what a mechanic friend recommended, and it has worked fine so far. Plus, if you go to the dealership this is what they will use. (and charge you out the yingyang for it) I live in Texas too, and this is what they all recommend.

These hints are stuff I leaned the hard way. Do with the info what you will, I just hope it helps you. Good luck!